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Archived Lost all power on the freeway, can't get it started again...

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I lost all power yesterday on the freeway doing about 80, a complete loss of power with no warning. Everything ran fine previously. I instantly suspected the lift pump because it started ticking about a month ago and it's gotten louder ever since. I had the truck towed to my house and I picked up a lift pump from Cummins on my way home. I also have a new fuel filter and a new rollover valve which I planned on changing soon as well. I've noticed that when I refuel the truck there's a hard vaccum on the tank and I was told it might be the overflow valve.



Fast forward to this morning, I start to work on changing the lift pump and I can't get the fuel fitting on top loose no matter what I try and I don't want to damage it until I get another line here from Cummins. Just for giggles I tighten the lift pump bolts back up (with the filter cannister removed) and I hand pumped it. It's putting out a ton of fuel to the filter. I checked the old filter and it looks to be original from 1998...



Could a bad rollover valve or old fuel filter cause me to lose all power and not be able to get it started. Anyone have any hints on what I should try to trouble shoot the truck? I have a brand new lift pump and rollover valve but I don't even know where the rollover valve is on the truck. Once I get all this stuff changed how would I get the system primed again?



:mad:
 
FYI - the filter can was full when I pulled it off so I'm pretty sure the lift pump is/was working correctly.

I'm assuming all of the threads on the fuel fittings are normal and not reverse threaded correct? I can't get the low psi fitting on top of the lift pump loose for the life of me.
 
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Ok the new overflow valve is in, mainly because I gave up pumping on the lift pump and wanted to keep working. :-laf I picked up some line wrenches, I hope that helps with the fitting on top of the lift pump if I didn't already damage it too much.
 
Test before parts .
Fuel pressure test , do a search here & you should find what you need , shrader valve in a bandjo bolt , pictures with some posts , I do not have a link , other wise I would post it .
There is an adjustment for the linkage on the fuel solenoid , some times it will pull up but not enough .
 
I just managed to get the lift pump off and the large internal spring is broken in 2, I would like to think that caused my problem but why would the filter can still be full of fuel if that's the case? If the lift pump stops pushing fuel will the injection pump suck everything out of the filter or will it just stop running because nothing is feeding the injector pump?

Also, I read that I shouldn't fill the new filter with fuel because that puts dirty fuel on the clean side of the filter... is that true and should I just sit here pumping by hand all night to fill it up once I get the new lift pump on?
 
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The injector pump will suck the fuel out of the fue filter cannister. When you run out of fuel you have to prime the fuel system to get it started (push primer button aprox. 30 times).



In two earlier post you stated you were pushing primer button, depending on how many times you pushed you could of re-primed the fuel filter cannister.



Yes it is true you can introduce dirt to injector pump/injectors by pouring fuel into fuel filter.



As stated above push primer button aprox. 30 times to prime fuel system.
 
The injector pump will suck the fuel out of the fue filter cannister. When you run out of fuel you have to prime the fuel system to get it started (push primer button aprox. 30 times).



In two earlier post you stated you were pushing primer button, depending on how many times you pushed you could of re-primed the fuel filter cannister.



Yes it is true you can introduce dirt to injector pump/injectors by pouring fuel into fuel filter.



As stated above push primer button aprox. 30 times to prime fuel system.



I've pumped it about 30 times x 100 and I still haven't filled the fuel filter canister. I'm going to jump back on it tomorrow when I can see and not drive my neighbors nuts with me cranking the motor. :-laf
 
When you replaced the lift pump you introduced air at the lift pump. When I did this on my 96' it was a pain. I had to use my compressor at the fuel door. Turned down the regulator to about 15psi. Stuffed some large rags into the fuel filler along with the air feed. This somewhat helps seal the pressurized air. The air will help push air through the lines to the lift pump. I don' recall what year truck you own. I removed the fuel filter on my 96' until fuel started coming from the lift pump. Then installed dry filter and cracked two injector lines. With continued low pressure air and pushing the prime button many, many times I was able to prime the system. Had the wife use the compressor. She enjoyed that job. I did everything else. Remember, use LOW PRESSURE AIR.
 
When my fuel shutoff solenoid went it was an intermittant problem, no matter how much i cracked different lines and primed the system I just couldn't get the engine to fire, and then I realized that the solenoid shutoff wasn't opening. However, if you gave it a little push, it would open, so it was getting weak, propably a short in the solenoid coil in the lift system (its a dual coil solenoid). Answays, once I figured that out and fixed the faulty solenoid, everything went fine. Just food for thought.
 
Ok so I hooked up a 5' piece of hose to the input on the lift pump and stuck it in a 5 gallon blitz can of diesel in the front wheel well area. After a couple minutes of pumping I filled the filter can and once I cracked the injector lines she fired right up and ran perfect. I was able to keep it running like that long enough to back it out of my driveway and turn it around so that it's nose down on the incline, it shouldn't really matter but I want to make sure I'm not trying to push diesel uphill from the tank. I can't run it long on the blitz can because it's overflow filling the tank on the truck which is almost full already but at least I know the new lift pump and everything past it is working fine and not leaking.

When I put air to the filler neck I'm building pressure in the tank but nothing comes out of the hose on the other end which I have unhooked from the lift pump. Should I be looking for a plug in the line somewhere or inside the tank? How hard is it to replace this fuel line?
 
I'm sorry, maybe I'm missing something, but it seems that you're saying that you are putting a presurized source of diesel on the inlet side of the lift pump, and it runs, therefore its not your lift pump that's a problem? IMHO, I wouldn't take that to be a reliable test of the lift pump, infact it seems to me that by putting fuel pressure on the inlet side of the lift pump is indicative of a dead lift pump, no?
 
No pressure as far as I can tell. Just a bucket of diesel. I suspect think I would check the hose on the supply line and the input fitting to the fuel heater/pre-filter assembly. It might be a problem at the hose comeing from the fuel canister in the tank.
 
Joe thanks for all your help, you're a life saver. I bought a hand vaccum pump and checked the line from the tank, once I was able to turn the truck around running off the non-pressurized tank of diesel priming everything was no problem. I pulled a vaccum and hooked the lift pump back up, gave it couple pumps and she fired right up. I just drove it for 30 minutes and all is well, except for the brand new oil pressure sending unit that I installed and it broke off in my hand.

I'm going to replace the short 45 degree hose, I don't have room to make a loop and the old hose looks a little worn. I'll order it from Cummins on Monday, thanks again.
 
Ok I just had it towed home for a second time except this time in the middle of a storm, I only got about 20 miles from home this time.



Same thing... freeway speeds, running great then loses all power and I glide over to the shoulder and it won't start.



So far I've replaced the overflow valve, the lift pump, added a fuel pressure gauge, the rubber 90 degree hose from the heater to the lift pump, I removed the heater, I replaced the fuel filter, I replaced the rubber lines on the engine end of the metal fuel lines... I'm running out of options and I'm at the point of taking it to someone to have it fixed but I can see them wasting my time and it dying on me on my way home from the shop.



It really seems like the thing runs great until you start driving at speed and then it can't get enough fuel so it dies. If I crack an injector line then hand pump it I know it'll start and run for a little while.



Any ideas? Any good diesel shops in the Houston area?
 
I've checked the solenoid and the relay, they seem to be working fine and after pumping the lift pump by hand I was able to get it started in the driveway. She ran fine for a couple minutes then died very slowly. I was able to watch the fuel pressure gauge as it died and it just fell off to zero then it started to sputter. The Solenoid stayed up the whole time so that's not killing it. My next step is to drop the tank, I've tried the compressed air idea and I can't push much fuel from the tank to the front end of the truck even if I pull the rubber hose before the heater cannister. I get a few drips but I should be able to push some real diesel through there with 10psi on the fuel cap.

I'm going to start emptying the tank at this time to check for algea or a clogged pickup.
 
This may have already been tried, but I would be suspect like you say of either a clogged inlet in the tank, bad fuel hose / line, or what I am wondering because this really sounds like the problem, do these trucks have inlet screens in them? I know a lot of the heavy equipment I have worked on have inlet screens on them, before the fine partical fuel filter, and in time they can gum up and when they do, the engine performs exactly like you're saying.
 
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