Lost drive shaft ctr support bearing

[lmabey]

So I think the bearing is still good the bracket has rusted out and the bearing has slipped out of the center support, any way to fix this or do I just need to replace the whole assembly,?

Just drop the drive shaft take the front to a shop and replace the center support?
So much for fishing today

 

[petersonj]

I would replace the assembly. It looks like it has lots of miles on it. Also, I would be checking / replacing u-joints while the driveshaft is out (if it has not already been done).

- John

 

[lmabey]

2011, with 83k miles. So is it really time for u-joints? I'll check for play

 

[BigPapa]

It shouldn’t be time for a carrier bearing, either....

 

[john D Frederick]

I have a 2011 and the same thing has happened to me. at 53000 miles since then I have replace it three time in three years. I even had Chrysler change it. why is it failing so often???

 

[seafish]

The center support bushing on my 2005 failed twice while my truck was under extended warranty.

The second time it failed, I was able to convince the service manager to credit the warranty cost of the bearing assembly to the wholesale price of an oem single piece aluminum driveshaft.

Not only did switching to the one pice DS eliminate the start up shudder that I used to experience, it also eliminated the ENTIRE center support structure and any future failure points that existed in it.

IMO, anybody whose center bearing support bushing and/or bearing on their 2 piece driveshaft has failed should seriously consider upgrading to a one piece aluminum DS.

just my .02

 

[john D Frederick]

The center support bushing on my 2005 failed twice while my truck was under extended warranty.

The second time it failed, I was able to convince the service manager to credit the warranty cost of the bearing assembly to the wholesale price of an oem single piece aluminum driveshaft.

Not only did switching to the one pice DS eliminate the start up shudder that I used to experience, it also eliminated the ENTIRE center support structure and any future failure points that existed in it.

IMO, anybody whose center bearing support bushing and/or bearing on their 2 piece driveshaft has failed should seriously consider upgrading to a one piece aluminum DS.

just my .02

I’ve thought about a one piece , on a long bed that’s a long drive shaft. And has a big price tag. I want to know what causes this failure.

 

[AH64ID]

With the added cab length can a 1 piece be ran on a 4th gen CCLB?

 

[seafish]

I’ve thought about a one piece , on a long bed that’s a long drive shaft. And has a big price tag. I want to know what causes this failure.

Likely a result of poorly factory aligned driveshaft angle at the center support (it can be shimmed down for better alignment) combined with high torque from the mighty cummins.

 

[seafish]

With the added cab length can a 1 piece be ran on a 4th gen CCLB?

Are the 4th gen CCLB driveshaft lengths much different then the 3rd get QCLB lengths ??

 

[AH64ID]

Are the 4th gen CCLB driveshaft lengths much different then the 3rd get QCLB lengths ??

With 9" of extra wheelbase, all behind the transmission, I would presume they are 9" longer for the same trans.

 

[Randomrunner12]

With 9" of extra wheelbase, all behind the transmission, I would presume they are 9" longer for the same trans.

I talked to a driveline shop in DFW that said there is a max length that driveshafts can be made to in a 1 piece due to the rotational forces when they get too long can rip themselves apart.I only know this because I was going to have them make me a 1 piece for my 2wd 2012 ccsb that is currently a 2-piece but they said it cant be done only because of the needed length.

If anyone is in DFW that needs a create shop, check out drive shaft king. The owner will even help you trace a vibration at no cost to you whether you have him fix it or not. I had them do 3 joints, balance and fix the warpping from the factory for 275$. Next will be the carrier and he only wants 150$ for that. Same day turn around as well.

 

[cerberusiam]

IIRC 85" is the longest most places will build then with the 5" aluminum tube, beyond that they have a problem with flex and balance. To go longer would require 6" heavier wall tubing that gets prohibitively expensive.

An alternate hanger bearing can be source that is much heavier then tho OE but requires building a new mount for it. No free lunch on these trucks, will require work and\or $$.

 

[bigblock_doc]

I had 230,000 on my 2003 and 316,000 on my 2012. Had u-joints go out but never a center bearing.
I guess I was lucky.

 

[Joe Mc]

I recall reading an article in TDR (of course no idea which issue, was years ago) that mentioned a few different types of center bearing assy and each one had slight differences. If you ended up getting one with a "slight difference" than the one in your truck it either didn't last long and/or vibrated... Of course as mentioned above, and in the article, shimming the assy down helped. BTW not sure why, guess I'm lucky, still have the original in mine @ 255k and the last 155k was running at the power and torque levels in signature, I rarely haul anything except a$$