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Lost number 4 injection line

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AMink

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My buddy and I were coming home from some duck hunting and stopped at the stop light. Smelled something but didn't think much of it. Got to the next light and it was obvious it was diesel. Got home and it was running out under the truck. Opened the hood and there is fuel on the driver side of the engine. Put on some goggles and fired it up and saw the spray coming from the #4 line. I was hoping it was loose but it looks like a crack or hole. I'm hoping the local Cummins dealer is open on Saturday. Planning on leaving town on Sunday for a cow elk hunt. What a PIA! Then I get on line and find out this is a common issue. Crap.

Anything I need to know about replacing it? Torque? Tips or tricks? I'll check all the isolators when I'm in there. Apparently the isolators can become loose and allow the line to vibrate until it fails.
 
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Great. Cummins is closed on the weekends!#@$%! I might have to bite the bullet and go directly to Dodge. That makes my stomach turn since the nearest Dodge dealer that I'll go to is in Carson City. I'll postpone leaving for my hunt before I go to Reno Dodge!
 
AMink, how many miles on your truck? Also, did you ever snug up the clip that holds #4 in place? I've heard that if it's not snugged up, it can vibrate a hole right there. Mine wasn't making any noises, but I snugged the clamp one full turn!
 
The truck has 85,xxx on it. I didn't know about this issue until it happened, so I've never tightened the isolator clamps. I'll be doing that now as regular maintenance, but it's too late for number 4. Even if it's covered under warranty, I really just want to get it fixed and get on with getting out of town. Looks like I'll be leaving Monday instead of Sunday. Not necessarily a bad thing, but annoying. I'm just glad this didn't happen while I was on my way to Ely. The middle of nowhere in Nevada is a very long way from anywhere!
 
#4 is the most common that breaks,but on my 03 #2-6 all change up to a new p/n. #6 now has a brace on it whereas it didn't before. When I rebuilt my engine I changed all 6 to be on the safe side as I didn't know the history of the truck. Shad
 
The only one we ever replaced was #4. I don't think there's a big price difference between Dodge and Cummins. I know one man that's on his 3rd one and he's been keeping a good eye on the braces. Like I said, I'd keep a #4 and a wrench in the glove box.



Scott
 
OK, went to Reno Dodge:eek: and got one for $60 and change OTD. I took off the line and went down and he showed me the part. Totally different. So, the lesson here is when the number 4 is leaking, remove the number 4, not the number 3. :roll eyes: My mistake. I saw which one was leaking last night and just goofed today. Anyway, went back and got the part, put it on, and all's well. Count twice, remove once.
 
Because # 1 comes out the front of the rail # 4 is the third one pointing up. Number 6 goes out the back end of the rail. A little confusing at first, a common mistake. BTW the 6. 7 is different. $60 is more than Cummins here in Canada sells them for, but when you need it you need it. Shad
 
On my '04, #6 cracked open at the bend near the head. I had an early one without the bracket on it. If you can't carry a full set of spares, at least carry #4 and #6. They are easy to replace and can be hand-tightened without a torque wrench; the specification for the various HPCR lines is in the 25-30 ft-lb range. Try to tighten the nuts so there is no strain on the line when the bracket is also tightened.
 
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Mine cracked at number 4 support brackets were snug but not tight. Funny though when I had to do the injectors I found the number 4 injector cracked. I wonder if the nozzle being cracked was causing extra hammering on the line causing it to crack??? There is a company that offers a conversion kit to update the fuel rail and connector tubes to the newer 6. 7 tubes. If I ever have a cracked line again I'm going to make that update.
 
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