Lots of help needed

[markha1]

Ok, as a new owner of a TDTruck I have more questions than answers. The truck is a 93 Dodge D250 2wd, and over 400K miles. I don't hear the turbo very much, just faintly under acceleration. It seems to lack that Punch when I stomp on the go pedal. also dosn't seem to kick down right. Plan to start a complete front end rebuild this weekend Makes lots of noise ... . clunk ... . chunk... bang... pop. . clink Any help or info would be greatly appreciated!

Ok some additional Info. Automatic trans. Don't know type

4000 LBS front axel, 9000 rear

and just how do you hook up guages that are not oem

ie Boost, EGT, Tach??

 

[EZGZ]

Get a boost gauge.

You can rig up something temporary for under $15



Now get some numbers to work with instead of guessing about what you hear and how it feels.

If you can't make 10lbs in 4th gear with a load. Better start by checking all your rubber connectors for tightness and make sure a hole hasn't rubbed through somewhere.



You may also want to check your throttle linkage parts for wear and adjustment.

 

[JLEONARD]

I don't hear the turbo very much, just faintly under acceleration

I don't hear mine much either... . but she scoots!

Jay

 

[1stgen4evr]

woah Mark

Before you start firehoseing money on the front end, check the 'pot' joint just ahead of the steering box. I have 407k on my 93 D350 twd and spent some (make that wasted some) money on the front end thinking it was shot. This was before I joined TDR. Replaced the floppy, sloppy, crappy to start with pot joint and all is well now. Indeed you may need to do something to the front suspension but don't just start throwing money at it. Most alignment shops either don't know about the joint or don't tell.



For the uninformed, fire hoseing is my expression for Pi$$ ing money away. As you can imagine in a big way with a fire hose.



In fact, before you do anything, check the forum archives. Your problem has already been addressed by others. If you can not find an answer, post the question.



Friends don't let friends firehose money on unrequired repair.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[markha1]

"pot joint !??????"

 

[Paychk]

Reinforced fabric disk that joins the shaft, coming out of the steering column, to the steering box located on the frame rail in the engine compartment. this is usually the cause of steering problems most notably in the 4 X 4 trucks, but can also happen in the 4 X 2 trucks. The cure is to replace it with a needle bearing universal joint from companies like Flaming River & Borgeson (sp??).

 

[1stgen4evr]

pot joint

Alan is telling you about the rag joint. The pot joint is below that just as the steering shaft goes into the steering box. That is what Jay calls it. He works for Torrington and they make steering shafts so I use his terminology. The rag joint and the pot joint can both be bad. Look at the steering shaft under the hood and where it comes through and is visible in the drivers side wheel well. The pot joint is under there. Move it up and down as well as back and forth. If it has not been replaced very recently, it will have a great deal of play in it. It is right there in all the water and crud off the road and is a source of trouble with the steering.



The Borgesen is an after market replacement for the pot joint. I think that the rag joint is still used with the Borgesen



I fuel at the Flash in Byron quite often and would be happy to meet you there when in the area, if you have any doubts after looking.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

markha1,



Welcome to TDR land, where $ disappears almost as fast as time...



Can't hear my turbo either, but with a tin can cab, straight exhaust, and mud tires, I wouldn't expect to hear my turbo. Even though I did upgrade to the 16cm2 turbine housing which made the truck go "zoom, zoom, zoom". Comparitively speaking.



Trent

 

[Paychk]

Thanks James, I learned something today, preciate it!

 

[mazdarotary]

On 3-28-04 redbadge verily said>



"made the truck go "zoom, zoom, zoom"







Hey Thats MAZDA's tag line get your own ;>P



Chris

92 D250 CC

74 MAZDA rotary truck"now this one goes ZOOM-ZOOM-ZOOM!!"

83 MAZDA RX-7

 

[dpuckett]

markha1,

Wash off the front suspension real well, and check the shock towers and front axle for cracks (I KNOW it isnt an axle proper, but I cant think of the right term). Mom's and mine both have them. Still aint got either one fixed. I have no money; not sure what her excuse is...



With 400K, you may be in need of an injector pump, or at least some tuning on it. Not sure what to tell you about the lack of kickdown; normally get it to kickdown TOO soon. I will say you have more power at lower RPM than a gutless gas pig, so it WONT kick down immediately, like a gasser will if you press the pedal to climb a hill empty. Get some gauges- pyro, boost, transmission temp. Here's a company that is pretty good to deal with- www.dieselpage.com Good prices on gauges, good customer service. And get at least a 40 psi boost gauge. With injectors (which you will "need" at 400k ) and a turbo upgrade, you will peg a 30psi gauge. With the right combo, you'll peg the 40, too. BTDT.



Welcome to the TDR, and have fun BOMBing the rig. Look it up in a search; you should find it somewhere... ... .



Daniel

 

[JLEONARD]

1stgen4evr

I'm proud of you. Thanks for filling in during my absense!!



The "rag joint" / fabric disk we call an "isolator coupling" or a "disk isolator".

It's function is to isolate road noise (vibration) and steering pump noise from travelling up the steering column so we do not feel this at the wheel... also the steering wheel can act as a speaker and make noise in the cab.

It also can take up to approx 2 degrees in shaft angle so sometimes we use one in lieu of a u joint.

It also adds some "free play" or what we call "rotational lash" to the steering system. These isolators are tunable to an extent... . the compounds and fibers can be changed to give different degrees of isolation and lash at the wheel. And as you can guess those two qualities.

are always in conflict.

Nuff for now... . sorry to "rant" so to speak.

The test will be given next week.

E C Jay

 

[Greenleaf]

Don't get overly zealous and throw parts and $$ into it... ... as stated above.



Take it easy and learn all you can about a particular area prior to investing time or $$.



You will have a lot to learn. After you have performed that first mod you will learn even more 'cause you'll have discovered a better mod in place of the one you just performed:{



Not not allow this to discourage you. This stuff all takes time (and big $$$$ )

Use a systematic approach.



When I purchased my truck..... (ok guys,,,enough of the heckling out there)... ... ... the same as yours,It made some real awful front end noises.

I solved that with a Borgeson and a grease gun.



It had poor acceleration and didnt down shift well, similar to yours I suppose.



One thing at a time. LEARN ALL YOU CAN FIRST!!



Scott

 

[1stgen4evr]

rag joint/ disk isolator

OOps. Threw in a little slang that I picked up on the board. Still working on that alternative coupler Jay. Found the part you mentioned. Looking at another possibility as well. But heck I am slow. I just figured out who T D Radmin is. You might better send the test right away. I'll have forgoten by then.



1stgen4evr

James