Here I am

Low Budget Performance?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

255/85/R16 Tires?

24 Valve fuel economy survey

Status
Not open for further replies.
Is there anything one can do to a stock truck to get some more performance out of it with out spending a ton. I also don't want to strain any thing which could cause short engine/anything life. I plan on in the spring putting a 4" exhaust system on it, but the funds are low:eek: right now. Any thoughts/adjustments ?
 
What kind of trans auto or manual? What kind of upgrades?



TST is the most bang for the buck. around $275 many HP opptions



Govener spring kit from Piers. $125



Guages $150 to ? A must do.





It will be a different truck after that, a lot more fun to drive, and pulling hills will be a better experince.



Jason
 
Auto Trans. I'll be honest I'm not sure on the upgrades, i'd just like a little quicker response/power. Wide topic right.
 
The quick upgrades right now that will help over the stock with low budget in mind.

1. change or get rid of the muffler and cat. $65 muffler shop

2. remove the stock filter box an install a AFE filter(I did get Scott's air induction case to go around the filter)$179 case/filter

3. click the AFC wheel 20 clicks toward the motor. free



For less than$250. . it makes a world of difference. . or at least it did on mine.

But you need to get some guages first before you start turning up the fuel(cam plate)



Rick
 
RHARVEY, I'm to the site so I need to know what some of the terms mean: AFC Wheel, AFE Filter. Did you notice a big diffrence in noise inside the cab when you removed the muffler? I really thank you guys for the information I love this truck it's coool, and you guys at TDR make it really cool to own!!:D
 
KRoaden,



I noticed a lot more noise in the cab when I got rid of the catalytic convertor. Some of the noise was from the long length of pipe under the cab but most was from the exhaust. I fixed that by having it exit straight out the back & putting a chrome turn down on the end.



Don't sweat the 4" exhaust. Lots of $ for little or no return. Call Mark @ TST & see what the biggest fuel plate you can use for your stock auto transmission & go get that plate. The plate is the biggest bang for the buck & you won't believe the difference.



Go get the boost & EGT guages before the fuel plate. If budget is an issue, get the EGT guage 1st, then the fuel plate. You'll add over 200 ft'lbs of torque for a few hundred $. :eek:
 
KRoaden,



BEFORE doing any performance upgrades get an EGT gauge! Geno's garage has a nice combo EGT/boost gauge. El cheapo performance up grade for a 12 value is to push the stock plate forward. Only cost is a screw to replace the "tamper proof" screw on the AFC housing. The instructions about how to replace the plate on the TST web site will show you how to get to the plate to move it. TST is at: http://www.tstproducts.com/ To late now since you spent your money on it, but you will need to upgrade the trans before spending very much money on performance upgrades. Any performance upgrades MAY lead to EGT problems so the gauge is a gotahaveit. A #6 TST plate is the hottest plate for your application recommended by TST.
 
All good advice, combine it all together,



1. Get gauges

2. Get a TST 230/605 plate for your truck. This will save the transmission from needing upgrades right away.

3. Keep the 3" exhaust, nuke the cat, get a walker flow thru muffler

4. For this level I would just get a STD K&N, AFE, etc and not spend the cash on fancy air induction systems



this should not destroy your transmission ( at least not too fast ), EGT's should be OK if the plate is in the stock position, maybe $500 - $600 if you do the labor and shop correctly.
 
I do agree with Slybones on the air induction, but with my truck putting a K&N in the stock box did nothing!!!! It wasn't until I changed to the aftermarket that it made the big difference. .



Rick
 
What kind of HP gain would there be to slide the stock torque plate all the way foreward and adjust the AFC wheel for smoke on a 97 model of my friends? Everything is standard now.
 
First thought, you can buy a lot of performance for the cost of a 4 inch exhaust.

Get the gauges, even if just sliding the stock plate forward and adjusting the AFC wheel you could get some pretty high EGT's. Remember, if you are doing the aforementioned mods, you haven't increased airflow. A boost elbow from Piers and some type of low restriction breather should be included.

Then there's the ever so controversial torque converters:D , there are several makers of torque converters so do your research and go with what your gut and pocketbook allow. ;)

Except for the torque converter, you can make the other mods for about 75% of the cost of 4 inch exhaust:eek: .
 
KRoaden,



Another comment about the EGT gauge. It should have been part of the stock intrument panel. Dodge just got cheap and didn't include it. Besides avoiding high exhaust gas temps (which are not usually a problem with a stock set up) you need it for cool down before shut off. The rule of thumb for shut down idle time is that if you are just trotting aound town you can just shut down after a few seconds to let the turbo spin down. If you have just pulled a long steep hill with a heavy load let it idle for five minutes before shut down. Nice precise rule don't you think? With the EGT gauge you let it idle until the EGT is 300 degrees or less and then shut down. The reason for this is to increase the life of the bearings in your turbo. Of course, you can always let it idle for five minutes, but that is kind of a PITA to say the least. Save yourself some hassle and worry, get the guage.
 
Last edited:
Steve C,



Is your friends 97 a non-Calif 5 speed, 215hp? If it is, 50 to 60hp by sliding the plate all the way forward. Doesn't sound like much, but when you figure it's 130ft-lbs or so :eek: for free!



The downside is low rpm EGT. When you get on the throttle @ low rpm, EGT raises because of the added fueling. The 'ground' plates don't have that problem. But, if you get the EGT guage, you just monitor & adjust EGT with the right foot. :)
 
Forrest, Thank you. Does the addition of a boost elbow only help the top end or is there some EGT mitigation at lower RPM's with the elbow? Sounds like he needs guages at least. That is what I did first.
 
Moving the plate and turning the star wheel is good for around 25 hp but is also good for causing engine damaging EGTs. Don't touch anything until you have gauges, the tamper proof screw is there for good reason.
 
next upgrades??

OK so what should I do next? Had Scheid rework pump and add new plate. Don't know what hp/tq. What a difference.



How far can I adjust the AFC or do I get the new spring kit?
 
Steve,



The boost elbow helps out at all rpm. The add'l fuel will try to spin the monica more & therefore need more psi capability. But, there's a cheaper way, spelled 'free', to do it. Just disconnect the rubber hose from the wastegate. :) That'll remove the signal to the wastegate. He won't over boost the HX35 with the add'l fuel of the stock plate, so no need for an elbow for regulation.



On the guages, if budget is a concern, just get the mount for both & get the EGT guage 1st. He should drill in the exhaust manifold for a pre-turbo reading. When he goes to lots of fuel, the post-turbo reading is too misleading.



If he wants to start with the 230/605 plate, do up a post asking for whatever # & pick one up on the used market. :) They are hardened & don't wear. Usually, bombing starts there but soon thereafter it's removed in favor of the next step up, so they are available. He can get into a plate for less $ that way. :D
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top