Lower control arms

[SHobbs]

While I had the truck on the lift looking for a rattle I found something odd. Curious as to why the passenger side lower control arm looks this way. One picture is the drivers side, other is passenger.

 

[seafish]

Looks like the part of the control arm bushing is damaged/missing in the lower pic.
NOT sure if you can get replacement oem bushings, but if not, maybe simply consider getting aftermarket lower control arms rather then paying for OEM.

 

[AEdelheit]

The bushing came out of the arm, you can get new bushings but often easier to replace the whole arm.

 

[Yo Hoot]

Replace the arms. Mine almost fell apart from rust on the end. They aren't really expensive.
Count on getting all new hardware as the bolts typically need to be sawzawled out

 

[Topzide]

That'll cause a rattle for sure! Good catch!

 

[Ozymandias]

Get the new style factory ones, the ones you have are not worth to think about it.

 

[Diesel Gunner]

Carli control arms are my recommendation. Have had them on my truck for about 40k no problems. Greaseable and rebuildable. Buy once, cry once.

You already know the OEM ones are junk.

 

[Ozymandias]

You already know the OEM ones are junk.

They aren't available anymore for a decade.

Ram went away with that design before I bought my truck and I replaced the factory with the new style ten years ago and they are still in perfect shape. Nothing beats that quality.
120k on the clock and counting, no greasing, no rebuild, nothing just works.
And many of these miles are on bad gravel roads, these arms get their share of beaten up many times.

 

[SHobbs]

Anyone have information on Stryker Control arms? Not afraid to use OEM but theirs look a little beefier. I'm having trouble finding an updated OEM design if there is one, anyone have a part number?

 

[Ozymandias]

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-arm-lower-control~68078374aa.html

You want the rubber elements in it, it is essential for NVH and also to safe the vehicle from the badest impacts running into potholes and such.
Make it rigid and you beat the axle, the frame and yourself to death.

PS: your MY came probably from the factory with the already updated arms, unlike mine.
Aftermarket still sells the crappy sheet metal arms in 2023, found while looking for your part#.

 

[SHobbs]

Darn things are pricey for a full set. Trying not to go over board and I know you get what you pay for, any information on Freedom Offroad? Are there any well made low cost sets out there?

 

[Ozymandias]

My upper ones are still factory, I dont know if you really need to replace them.
Small cracks at the surface of the rubber bushings aren't an indicator that the need to be replaced, the compressed rubber inside is still fine then.
It becomes visible it they are really worn out to the point a replacement is needed as you can see it that the inner part starts to move around inside the bushing.
The uppers are mostly reaction arms for the brake torque and way less guiding the axle down the road. Or different said, the lowers keep the axle at position, the uppers keep the axle from turning around.

 

[Regcabguy]

They aren't available anymore for a decade.

Ram went away with that design before I bought my truck and I replaced the factory with the new style ten years ago and they are still in perfect shape. Nothing beats that quality.
120k on the clock and counting, no greasing, no rebuild, nothing just works.
And many of these miles are on bad gravel roads, these arms get their share of beaten up many times.

View attachment 138882

Quiet and zero maintainance.

 

[Regcabguy]

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-arm-lower-control~68078374aa.html

You want the rubber elements in it, it is essential for NVH and also to safe the vehicle from the badest impacts running into potholes and such.
Make it rigid and you beat the axle, the frame and yourself to death.

PS: your MY came probably from the factory with the already updated arms, unlike mine.
Aftermarket still sells the crappy sheet metal arms in 2023, found while looking for your part#.

Are these upgraded arms 1/2" longer or the same?

 

[Ozymandias]

Same length if i remember correctly. 1:1 replacement.

 

[SHobbs]

I have the sheetmetal arms, they are not tubular like the above picture. If I can find the bushings are the sheetmetal worth holding onto? I can get a full set of new tubular arms like above for around $200.

 

[Regcabguy]

Same length if i remember correctly. 1:1 replacement.

Typical bushings for silent operation too. Do you remember the part# for those?

 

[AEdelheit]

Anyone have information on Stryker Control arms? Not afraid to use OEM but theirs look a little beefier. I'm having trouble finding an updated OEM design if there is one, anyone have a part number?

Most of these types of arms use real cheap bushings that you cant get replacements for, I have thrown out many sets of cheap aftermarket arms because the bushings were shot and couldn't find replacements. You get good quality or cheap, cant really get both.

 

[Ozymandias]

Typical bushings for silent operation too. Do you remember the part# for those?

These https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-arm-lower-control~68078374aa.html

 

[Ozymandias]

I have the sheetmetal arms, they are not tubular like the above picture. If I can find the bushings are the sheetmetal worth holding onto? I can get a full set of new tubular arms like above for around $200.

Not worth to change bushings, I did in the past on my JEEP with the same style arms and it was difficult to get the new bushings to hold in the stamped sheet metal arms.
In the end I spot welded them in. Crap job.

Replace and forget about them for the next 15 Years to come. Small price per mile for decent stuff.