Lower EGTs? with ER?

[BCook1]

Greetings,

I am a new member and new CTD owner. I have run Energy Release oil additive in gas motors in the past and seen significantly lower egts (on a dyno). Has anyone used it in CTDs and seen worthwhile results? This stuff is sort of costly. I don't have a pyro yet - it is on back order.



Also, my towing mileage seems low compared to the claims of others. 10mpg with a 7500 pound travel trailer. Any ideas? My empty mileage is 18-19 at 70 to 75 mph.



Thanks

BCook1



92 w250 Club cab, getrag, stock otherwise, set the valves and gave it an overall tune up/inspection.

 

[bflood]

Originally posted by BCook1

Greetings,

. . . . .

Also, my towing mileage seems low compared to the claims of others. 10mpg with a 7500 pound travel trailer. Any ideas? My empty mileage is 18-19 at 70 to 75 mph.



Thanks

BCook1



92 w250 Club cab, getrag, stock otherwise, set the valves and gave it an overall tune up/inspection.

Yes, your towing mileage is low. I tow 14K# over lots of hills in New England and get 12. 5mpg. I just cruised empty to North Carolina and got 23. 7mpg at 65 to 70 mph.



Suggestions? Everything I have done to improve performance has also resulted in better mileage. So start BOMBING! Others with more knowledge might identify things to check but I would suggest checking/advancing your timing as one place to start, assuming there is nothing wrong with your driveline. (no funny noises coming from that GETRAG is there?)



Welcome to the club.

 

[hdm48]

I have tried Er in the past on gas engines (street and race). I have also tried slick 50, Duralube, Micro 3, and a host of others. I now use (and sell) Uniglide FRC. This stuff works. I use it in my diesel, it's transmission, transfer case, and axels. It cooled my EGTs but in our modified trucks the gain is hard to measure. I use it to treat all the bearings in a race two-stroke engine as I put it together and have had lower end bearings last up to three times longer. I have soaked drive chains with it and after a race the chain is almost cool to the touch. In my 30 foot motor home it gave me 2 mpg better milage, and cooler run temps.

Uniglide treats the metal on a molecular level. So it will not tighten up tolerences like the other stuff.





Dave

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

As an afterthought... . remember that as you advance timing on the injection pump a few things happen...

>Smoother idle

>Quicker throttle response

>Higher cylinder pressures

>Lower EGT's

>Lower torque numbers

>Higher HP numbers

>Less smoke on start-up even at colder temps and, driving at operating temp.

>As advance is increased you will eventually start to hear a "hardness" to the engine sound. It's similar to the old Mercedes sound in nature. Too much advance will kill a head gasket if you're not careful.



As for oils and additives..... a touchy topic that one... .

I'm no chemist but...

If you have any oil leaks now, you'd be best not to switch to full synthetic due to it's detergent properties. It will scour any "deposits" that are preventing leaks or seeping and you'll have a full out leak.

This is especially true of high mileage engines.

The synthetic oils do a few things very well...

They deal with high temps much better than traditional oils.

They do not thin out and run off parts like a normal oil. It has something to do with "long chain" molecules. Normal oil thins and the molecule actually straightens out, allowing the oil molecules to seperate and run off hot moving parts. The synthetic molecule kind of "curly cues" up and chains together better, resulting in it being retained on hot parts much better.

Most normal mileage engines benefit from a 50/50 blend. This brings in the benefits of synthetic oil with the more traditional properties of dino oil and lower cost than 100% synthetics.

Mobil 1 is good... I use another brand that starts with the same base stock as Mobil 1



As for additional additives, I don't know squat so I'll leave that alone...



Pastor Bob.