Lowering & alignment

[DanDee]

A while ago someone posted an excellent article w/pics about removing the rear axle blocks (Klenger?) to gain a little more clearance for 5th wheels, etc.



So as I was crawling under my truck, getting ready to start, it suddenly occurred to me... what about front end alignment?

Even though there is a centering pin you place back into the spring pack, could this effect your 4-wheel alignment???



So I did a search on TDR & came up with this factory TSB for lowering 2nd gen Rams... # 02-001-01 & it sez... . " Once the package has been installed on the vehicle, the vehicle must have the front suspension re-aligned and the headlamps re-adjusted. "

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/02-001-01.htm



Maybe the 2nd gens are different???



Anybody have any training or expertise in wheel alignment that could answer this with authority?



(Obviously because of the alignment pin, its all going to back together fairly close to original... but I'm guessing that any time you loosen the rear springs there are going to be some small changes... could this effect your tire wear and mileage?)



Thanks

DanDee (who is really not looking forward to having to have his front end aligned at only 1500 miles!)

 

[CChase]

I would say yes you would need to have the front end aligment done. Due to the change in the pitch of the truck, you will be changing the castor of the front wheels which helps the vehicle drive straight on it's own. It probably would not cause issue until the first time you load it heavily, but I am sure there people more expert on this than myself that will pitch in... .

 

[klenger]

Good points. The TSB for the 2nd gens is a bit more drastic of a change as it drops the back end 1-7/8" vs 1-1/4" for the 3rd gens. I have not noticed any difference in handleing since I did the mod, but this does not mean that nothing has changed. The actual change in pitch (using aircraft terminology) is about 1/2 degree.

 

[FCecelin]

how does one adjust headlight aim ? I found the left riight screw , but not the up down screw . . Where is that at ??

 

[Jay]

I had the alignment checked after I removed the blocks. The alignment shop did not think that removing the blocks would affect the alignment, but they did find that the toe needed adjustment on both sides. Now that could have been the way the truck came from the factory??



I did not re-adjust the headlights... in my opinion they were too low in the first place. I've driven a fair amount at night and haven't had other vehicles flashing their lights at me.



Jay

 

[CChase]

As an afterthought, Les Schwab will check your alignment for free and then only align it if required. Not sure if there is one near where you live, but being in Northern CA, there may be.

 

[curatchko]

I don't buy it. So now everytime you have a load in your bed you need an alignment? Don't hook a trailer up or you'll need an alignment!!!



A 2 inch block out of the rear end isn't even change the pitch angle 1 degree...



Sorry for being pesimistic, but sometimes the atom doesn't need to be smashed.

 

[CChase]

Originally posted by curatchko

I don't buy it. So now everytime you have a load in your bed you need an alignment? Don't hook a trailer up or you'll need an alignment!!!

You are changing the pitch range permanently. The truck comes from the factory setup (I would assume) for a given pitch range. When you alter the pitch permanently by removing factory components, you are altering the end points of the expected range of travel... I'm not one to say that it is absolutely necessary that it be done, but it may be a wise thing to look into.



In other words, in the unloaded condition, the truck sits like it is loaded with enough weight to squat the rear down 1-1/4". Now if you load it to the maximum capacity, you have exceeded the maximum expected range of travel by the 1-1/4 above and beyond what the theoretical worst case scenario was before the change.....

 

[DanDee]

I hadn't even thought about pitch... what I was thinking about was alignment between front to rear. I know the better alignment shops have racks that offer "4 wheel alignment".



Maybe because the rear axle is solid... what ever tiny alignment changes occur in unbolting & re-bolting, the front end just adjusts for in its tracking?

(So other than a slight change in pitch, which is just to help the steering return to center, there would be no other ill effects?)





Anyway I really like the "rake" of my truck & hate to change it... so maybe I'll first try raising my trailer.



It has a Dexter axle with brackets that allow adjustment. Appears to be set on the lowest with two more holes, but I can't find any instructions in my paperwork. I'll try a search on the old WWW!



Thanks, DanDEE