Lowering kits

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Does anyone know of a manufacture of a lowering kit for the 2nd generation 4x4.

I would like my 2000 quad cab 4x4 lowered to the 4x2 height, or at least close.

Since I do no real 4 wheeling, no need for the extra height.

Thanks,

Henry.

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Reformed Powerjoke owner, 2000 model, 3500, SLT, Quad-cab, 5 speed, 4. 10, 4X4, straight piped.

NRA member

 

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i have been looking for the same deal since oct. /99 for my 2500. but no luck yet. if i find something i will post it.

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MARK 99 2500 QC 4X4 5-SPEED SHORTBED BLACK (THE ONLY COLOR) DYNO SOURCES POWER BOX TURNOVER BALL GOOSENECK HITCH

 

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I had to ask the obvious question... why did you get a 4X4 in the first place? You are carrying around a lot of extra weight that you'll really never use if you lower it!

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'01 2500 SLT+, QC, LWB, 4X4, 3. 54s, AT, every option but running lights! To come: 19. 5"s (?), lift, Line-X, Exhaust brake, 4" turbo to tail, etc...

'98 DUCATI ST2 "Bombed" 944CC with Ducati Performance Carbon Fiber Exhaust, F. I. M. Chip, K&N and "modified" air box.

 

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Could you just eliminate or machine the thickness of the spacer that sits on between the rear axle and springs? I think it looks like the front needs the spring travel it has, but I don't understand why the rear couldn't be easily lowered. Shock absorbers might need to be changed to a shorter version, and shorter u-bolts would be required, but what else would that effect??? Would lowering the rear so the truck sat closer to level empty affect handling???

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01 QC LWB 5 spd, trailer tow pkg, camper pkg

 

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Just throw about 1000# of dirt in the back and it should level out fine #ad

 

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My Dad took the spacers on the rear end of his 97. 5 3500 out and replaced the shocks and all u-bolts. (He says U-bolts are cheap and they should never be reused, I agree) His truck now rides level without a load and tilts back with his 14500 lb 5er hooked up. He asked Dodge what there opnion of this was and they said "it will be bad, changes the angle of drive shafts and such". Well 25,000 miles later, all is fine. Just as a side note, he likes it tipped back a little under load because it lowers the front of his 5er a couple of inches and this is a good thing.

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01 2500 SLT+ QC LWB 4x4 Auto 3. 54 rear end Forrest Green Sport with all options avail
DC Nerf Bars, DC Grill Gard, DC mud flaps, Line-X bed liner and Leer 160XL Topper
Power Edge on work bench awaiting install. Gauges and 4" Exhaust in planning stages. Dreaming of transmission
up grades and injectors... ... and some type of Airbox mods.
See My Truck
2000 Skidoo Summit 700

 

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Ghillie,

You can lower the rear by installing 2" lowering shackles. You can then install one of my ACTIVE SUSPENSION KITS to give you
additional load carrying, handling, cornering, etc. (see potential business add)

mrbob

 

[Archive]

The lift in the front is to give adequate clearence between the axle and motor. That's why Chevy 4x4's sit so low, They have IFS. If you lower the front, make sure you put bumpstops low enough so that the axle doesn't smash into the oil pan when you hit a large bump.

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98. 5 3500 QC 4x4, Driftwood/Mist Grey, 5 spd, 3. 54, 19. 5 Alcoa's, 245/70-19. 5 Michelin's, Ranchhand front bumper, Ranchhand rear bumper, Ranchhand toolbox, "Scotty Air", TST PowerMax2, Autometer Gauges, Centerforce clutch, Upgraded fuel lines (JRE and Aeroquip), MagHytec Diff Cover, PacBrake

 

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Thanks for the responses guys,

Scooby, I use 4 wheel drive all the time. Use it to give me a usable reverse when backing my trailer, use it when towing heavy on steep gravel roads, and use it in the snow. I do want and need 4 wheel drive. The added height is unecessary for my use, so if there was a kit to lower it that would be cool. I do see that clearance is needed for Dodge's live axle up front, soooo I guess I won't be lowering. I see no real need to lower the rear only. But thanks again for the info guys.

 

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I lowered the bed of the truck 2-1/2". Bought u-bolts and built spacer blocks myself.

I have no idea what these people are talking about "why did you buy a 4x4". The extra height of the stock spring spacer blocks DO NOT provide ANY extra clearance for a 4x4. The only way to get more clearance is to add TALLER TIRES!

The rear of the truck is still 1-3/4" taller than the front.

I will send you my plans if you would like them.

Was the first modification I did to the truck - one week after I bought it!

Been happy with it ever since - with no adverse problems.

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"Red Rage" - 2001 2500 SLT 4x4 QC Lowered Rear End 2. 5" 5spd, 4. 10 K&N Stock Replacement - 8,000 miles and counting! 30' 5th Wheel

 

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bennettj, I assume you are refering to my comments about clearance since nobody else mentioned that. I am talking about the clearence between the axle and the motor, not ground clearance. That is the reason Dodges and Fords sit up so high and the Chevys don't. They have IFS and do not extra clearance for an axle.

If I am wrong in this assumption, I apologize.

[This message has been edited by Jeff Clark (edited 07-10-2000). ]

 

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No, referring to all the people that think a 4x4 should be a monster truck!

I have been known to drag the ball/receiver hitch on a 4x4 though.

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"Red Rage" - 2001 2500 SLT 4x4 QC Lowered Rear End 2. 5" 5spd, 4. 10 K&N Stock Replacement - 8,000 miles and counting! 30' 5th Wheel

 

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Well for those of you who read my post above about taking the spacer blocks out... . My Dad's truck is a 98. 5 not a 97. 5. I would guess it would still work though. Sorry for the mistake... . Dad sent an email after he read the post... . fixxed my signature too.

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01 2500 SLT+ QC LWB 4x4 Auto 3. 54 rear end Forrest Green Sport with all options avail
DC Nerf Bars, DC Grill Gard, DC mud flaps, Line-X bed liner and Leer 160XL Topper
Power Edge on work bench awaiting install. Gauges and 4" Exhaust in planning stages. Dreaming of transmission
up grades and injectors... ... and some type of Airbox mods.
See My Truck
2000 Skidoo Summit 700

Dads truck: 98. 5 3500 SLT QC LWB 4x4
Brother Truck: 92 2500 SLT QC LWB 4x4 (Dads old truck)

 

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Originally posted by Jeff Clark:
"That is the reason Dodges and Fords sit up so high and the Chevys don't. They have IFS and do not extra clearance for an axle. "

Jeff- even the old straight-axle Chevys sat down lower. I have a 1988 V-30 (old body style crew-cab SRW 1-ton 4X4) that sits only 1 1/2" higher than my Ram. I never understood why Dodge didn't offer the option- I would have liked to have 4WD on the Dodge but I carry glass in it (work truck)and the lift height into the bed would have been ridiculous.

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Bill Lins Wharton, TX 98 2500 QC SLT,12 (the CORRECT # of)valves,NV4500,3. 54 LSD,Manik grille guard,Psychotty Air,Amsoil everywhere, Reading aluminum utility body and bumper,Optima yellow tops- silencer ring, cat,& muffler all stolen.

 

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Bill, I'm talking about current models. The Chevys have IFS and do not need extra clearance between the center section of a solid axle and the motor. The reason the old Chevy solid axle 4x4's could get away with sitting low is that the gas motor or diesel is not as tall as the Cummins. BTW, a friend of mine had a 1989 1-ton 4x4 with a 454. That truck sat just as high and maybe a little higher that my Dodge.

You can lower a 4x4. Remove the blocks from the rear and have custom springs made for the front. Problem is, you will be banging the bumpstops all the way down the road.

 

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Visit this link to see drawings and pictures of a RAM that has been lowered 2-1/2" -
Pictures and Drawings.

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"Red Rage" - 2001 2500 SLT 4x4 QC Lowered Rear End 2. 5" 5spd, 4. 10 K&N Stock Replacement - 9,000 miles and counting! 30' 5th Wheel

[This message has been edited by bennettj (edited 07-11-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

I have been considering lowering the rear of my new truck (whenever it gets here) as I think the 2500's are a little goofy looking with their rear-end so high. I originally though of raising the front-end 2" and going with larger tires (and 4. 10 axles), but now I think the 265/75-16's are fine (with 3. 54's) if the rear end was lowered just a little. With the camper overload springs I can't see that the rear axle would ever get even close to bottoming out.

Has anyone just taken out the stock spacer blocks between the springs and the rear axle and had them milled-down? I was thinking that 1-3/4" to 2" would be about right (should still be able to take a load without squatting-down the rear). It even looks as if the U-bolts have enough extra thread to them so that they could be reused (or just replaced, no big deal). This just sounds easier than making new spacer blocks.

Also, about how much do the springs compress under load? I plan on towing a 10,000# trailer on a rear hitch, so about 1,000# tongue weight plus say 500# in the bed. Less if using an equilizer hitch. Would I even touch the overload springs?

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Wait'n for my 2001 2500 QC, SB, 4x4, ETH 6-sp, 3. 54 LSD, SLT++ (everything but those silly looking lights on top of the roof), White over Silver, Tan leather.

 

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I'm keeping the original parts for putting back on the truck when I trade it for the crew cab in 2002?

I saw someone mention using a band saw to cut off a couple inches from the top. Should work just as well. The spacer is a cast shell.

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"Red Rage" - 2001 2500 SLT 4x4 QC Lowered Rear End 2. 5" 5spd, 4. 10 K&N Stock Replacement - 9,000 miles and counting! 30' 5th Wheel