2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Lowering the rear of truck

[Motorhead]

I would like to know if anyone has pulled out the rear spring blocks on their 2WD trucks? Mine sits high in the back and low in the front. I don't haul anything that heavy. My concern is if I may affect the driveline angle or if it would cause me to have to shorten the driveshaft. I REALLY want to get rid of these blocks to level out my truck.

Anyone done this?????? Chris

 

[ntillm01]

I haven't yet, but I'm going to. I don't know how much it will change the attitude of the truck, but anything will help. I'm pretty sure they are part of the camper package, to have the truck sit level with a heavy slide-in.



Since they are parallel, driveline angle shouldn't be affected. I think there are enough threads on the square u-bolts to tighten everything back up. I don't think the shocks will care. Don't know about the anti-sway-bar, but that shouldn't change much either.



I searched the threads for this one day, and I know someone out there has done this on a 2WD and was happy with it.

 

[Slick]

Motorhead, I had a new 01. 5 2wd and I liked the level look. I too did not tow heavy or hauled heavy loads. I put 27,000 on it without the blocks and had no problems. When you remove them take your time and be careful when you lower the frame back to the axle making sure the pins line up. Might need to give the axle a swift kick. For safety I used jack stands to support the truck. I had no problems whatsoever doing this mod. If you plan on leaving your truck this way you may want to cut the shackle bolts as they look a little long after the mod. However for whatever reason I kept the 1" blocks and when I bought my 4wd 01 I lowered the rear by romoving the overloads and the factory blocks (4" ???) and used the 1" blocks from the 2wd to level the 4wd. Worked perfect no drivetrain or shock problems either,again no heavy loads or heavy towing.

 

[Motorhead]

Thanks Guys for the replies. I think that the truck will look alot better and maybe handle better. My concern was with the driveline and possably affecting the angle and also the front yoke bottoming out in the trans. My truck is a short bed with a one piece drive shaft.

SLICK, Did your 2wd truck have a one piece drive shaft? Chris

 

[Forrest Nearing]

think about it, the truck sits high so that when it sees a heavy load, it won't drag the rear bumper... they designed it so that w/ a rated load, it would ride pretty level... you're making it ride level... the driveline angle should be fine.



Forrest

 

[Slick]

It was a single drive shaft

 

[Motorhead]

Forest... Slick, Thanks... . Makes sense on the level ride. Chris

 

[JBlackwell]

I lowered my rear

I did mine a few months ago, '00 reg cab LWB 2wd. The dang thing set 5" higher in the back and it rode rough, I was fixing to get rid of it.



Finally sucked it up one night and started at it. Here is what I did:



First jacked it up from the bumper and let the suspension hang freely. Took of the rear tires, used a small 2 ton jack for under pumpkin for letting the suspension up and down. Pulled out the top overload leaf packs after I inzipped the u-bolts. Had to loosen the tank on the driver side to pull the main leafs out.



You can do ine of two things reguarding the clearance with the top overloads hitting the frame mounted bump stops.



1. Either, pull the main springs apart, pull the second from bottom leaf, remove all the little metal spacers. Then pull the overloads apart and bolt all the springs back together with the main leaf bolt (just long enough too)



2. Or, pull the main springs apart, pull the second from bottom leaf, bolt it back together and put it all back on. You will have to still use the 1" spacer that seperates the two leaf packs and then just pull the overload frame-mounted stops off until you get ready for a good load.



If you do #1, you will not use the spacer that seperates the two leaf packs, because you bolted all of them together. The main thing is to take the next to the bottom leaf out of the main spring pack. This will give you a 1 3/4" drop.



Another thing is you can, of course, pull the 1" block that is on bottom of the springs and it will give you another 1" additional.



I pulled the 1" block and did #1 above (now recommend #2), but either way you will get 2 3/4" drop from it.



1 more thing I had to do, I had to pull the rear brake adjustment arm off the driver side rear axle. It determines rear brake pressure depending on amount of load you have (squat). I had to pull the arm off and cut it 3/4" I think and weld it back together. Took only 20 minutes.



Over 12K miles later, never have had a problem, truck sets a WHOLE LOT better and it still has a nice little rake to it. Also the truck rides 100 times better.





I think it took me a total of about 3 hours or so, #2 that I mentioned above will be quicker and better I believe. One day I will go back and redo it. If you did it my way, you will need some spacers for the bottom of the u-bolts so you don't run out of threads.



Let me know if you have any more questions,

JD

 

[ntillm01]

Good thoughts on the drive shaft. Hadn't considered it to be a problem because, as stated, it will simply run in a position that is was designed for when loaded.



As for the brake compensator ride height sensor thingy, I don't think mine has one. I can't find where I read it, but the ABS system compensates the brake pressure all the time, so the load/ride height sensor (and compensation) is not needed. I don't know when this started.



Personally, I don't want to mess with the spring packs. I just need the rear end down so it looks more right. With it up in the air, it looks like something's missing (like a 2000lb tractor in the bed )