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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Lug holes in rotor wollered out

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1995 2500 4wd : Had a noise from left front, the lug holes in rotor where egg shaped. Not sure what could cause this. The lugs where tight in the hub assembly, the bearing had a little side to side play in it, not totally gone. After all this i have realised the whole front end is worn out.



That rotor was replaced 2 years ago along with other side and it is fine still.



If anyone knows any reason how this could happen please share with me.



I have had a death wobble 3 or 4 times in about a 4 month span. I think death wobble is from bad track bar and tires from my situation here.



So my fix so far : Replaced left front hub assembly and rotor and new lugs

Replaced track bar

New Yokohama Geolander at/s

The ball joints replaced 6k miles ago

This week im replacing caliper pins and changing to the '99 T setup. I have to wait for my wounds to heal before doing the steering box and on and on and on. Its my old 12v work truck and i love her, more than i should.



I read all the advice from tdr and follow it from what brands to use and procedures.



Any help is appreciated,



Thank you
 
My son had this happen on a jeep. He took a set of wheels off a ford explorer and put on the jeep. The center hole on the ford wheel was a tad smaller on the ford wheel therefore the lug nuts were tight but the wheel wasn't tight against the drum.
 
On 2500/3500 the wheels are hub-centric meaning the wheel is centered on the hub and must be a tight fit (and the bolts are flat to hold the wheel to the rotor). On 1500s the wheels are lug-centric meaning a cone nut centers the wheel on each lug. I'm guessing you have non-stock wheels and the center hole is too large.
 
Factory wheels... this truck is stock except drive train... I read those posts about the wheels being wrong and break studs, i didnt have any broken studs... the rotor and hub were together correctly...
 
After recently experiencing death wobble on my 95, I have to think it was caused by the death wobble. I had read about death wobble for years, but couldn't comprehend how bad it was until it happened. New track bar bushings appears to have taken care of my death wobble. I also replaced shocks and front stabilizer links, but don't think they were a major contributing factor. Sure steers and rides better now though.
 
The only way possible for a front wheel rotor to wear the lug holes is for it to be loose. Since the wheel clamps to the rotor, the wheel had to be loose as well. Are you using stock wheel lug nuts? If they are aftermarket type with closed ends, maybe they bottomed out? Some Dodge trucks of that era used a wheel spacer between the rotor and wheel, does yours have them or should have them and they are gone? This loose rotor thing is not making sense... ...



Nick
 
Years ago, I replaced rotors on my 98. Recently, I had to replace them again. You have to press out the lug studs to get rotor off the hub. One of my rotors was loose and egg shaped at the lug holes. I found that when installing my new rotors, that you have to really press them HARD to seat the studs, or they will egg shape again. Always rotate my tires, never had loose lugnuts, always used a torque wrench, but this still happened. Crappy design, wish it was like an 02.
 
yours can be like an 02, well atleast an 01. just send me your axle and I will send you mine... that way I can use ford outers.
 
basically in 99 or 00 the ball joint configuration was changed on the axles, newer axles will not work for it.



prior axles use the same joints so from the U-Joint and knuckle out will almost straight swap on to the axle from the 97 and older ford dana 60's. I don't remember what is needed to make the brakes line up at the moment, but this has been done before.
 
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