Lug nut studs and Nuts

[BIGNASTY]

Was looking to put new aluminum rims on FIL's car trailer that is towed behind his Motorhome. It has steel wheels on it now 16" rims, it would look and match his Motorhome if it also had aluminum wheels. Question how much of the lug stud should be sticking out of the center of the lug nut? When Harvey B. Convinced me of the better use of LT tires on my TT, I had the same change from Steel to aluminum but on the TT the lugs stuck out pretty far and didn't have to be changed. On FIL's Trailer the lugs are only thru about a 1/4 inch, should the new rims that are thicker allow the same amount of stud thru the nut?



New rims would have a different type of lug nut acorn vs reg type of lug nut, they also would have chrome hub cover with plug to check, and grease hubs.



Thanks

BIG

 

[GCroyle]

BIG,



No clue. But the engineers at work back up 1 1/2 X the diameter in used thread length if it is a bolt going into a "THING" Example a 1/2" stud uses about 3/4" into the THING its threaded into.



May the Threads be with you on your quest to the threaded pitch wisdom. Maybe this Thread will answer this pitching question. May the TPI and tap bolt size chart guide you on your circular angled ramp fine vs. coarse question.

 

[Newt]

A minimum of 1 1/2 X the diameter is the rule of thumb. Now you get into hub centric VS lug nut centric. :-laf

Newt

 

[JR]

Gary is right about the one and a half x the diameter of the thread, but I believe that is for lifting purposes. Consider a bolt and a nut which I think is more similar to a stud and a lug nut. A nut is actually thinner than the diameter of the bolt diameter. So in your example of a 1/2" bolt, the nut is typically only about 3/8" or so. There are exceptions like in structural grade bolts that use extra heavy nuts, and they are only as thick as the bolt. 1/2" bolt = 1/2" wide nut, 3/4" bolt equals a 3/4" wide nut, etc. What is important is that you get full engagement of the nut (or lug nut) and it is torqued properly. As long as you have a full lug nut with possibly a thread or two sticking past, I can't see where it could hurt a thing IMO.

And no, that doesn't come with a road side warranty :-laf

 

[Wayne M.]

Big, can you be more specific on the lug types? The orig steel wheel uses a plain automotive cone seat lug, right? Alum wheels are all over the place regarding lug type. I have to blow off the dust and find it, BUT my old NHRA rule book had regs regarding this matter. Basically if you get full engagement of threads on the fastener, that's what's important.

I'm with newt about worrying how the wheel is piloted. Hub pilot or lug piloted. Make sure the cuffs and collars match on that one!

 

[BIGNASTY]

Was looking at this type of wheel and these are the two different types of nuts, would like to use the enclosed end or acorn nut. Steel wheels that he has on the Trailer now has the lug on the right , I think that the steel wheels and ugly lug nuts make his rig look cheap that's the reason along with a THANK YOU for letting us use his rig last month camping. Guess I could measure the rim thickness difference and the lug nut depth and just make sure it don't bottom out in the lug nut!!!! and get the new lug studs to make sure they don't bottom or arnt long enough to get a good bite on the stud/nut

 

[Wayne M.]

If this were my upfit, I'd be concerned about the closed end of the stud bottoming out in the lug. Also get the measurement of the I. D. Of the wheel, then remove a wheel and make sure there won't be any interference. Best case would be a close fit, like there is on our rams with the oem wheels. Worst case would be the ID of the wheel being smaller than the hub snout. That wouldn't work.
That's a nice thing you're doing there.