2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Lukes Linked that track bar

[Sled Puller]

After 140,000 miles, the old track bar was starting get a touch loose.



Tried the Lukes Link, it tightened her right back up.





Thinking about doing the tie rods ends as well.

 

[RKohn]

How long did it take ya, start to finish? I need it done, but my garage is freaking cold. :{

 

[Sled Puller]

Maybe an hour? We was bsin, hard to say. It really takes two people to hook it back up.

I'd wait for a warm day.

You may want to get a poly bushing kit for the other end, I got mine from Summit Racing, like $7 I believe. I changed it last summer.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

RKohn

When you grind the T-bar to get the ball joint out, try to grind it straight and flat. I had minor problems doing this.

 

[rholcom2]

Just a suggestion, when hooking it back up to the frame after installing the Lukes Link, I found it was much easier to line it up by jacking the drivers side of the frame up. Also, be informed that a bit of grinding on a 4X4 is necessary for it to clear the front pumpkin. I didnt, and am going to have to crawl under it and take care if it one of these warm days..... who knows when that will be.

 

[Sled Puller]

??? I didn't have to grind, was not even close, I wonder what is different on the two trucks?

 

[rholcom2]

Ok, mabye I didnt explain myself totally. The Lukes Link doesnt hit the front differential cover all the time, just when I go over a "hump" such as a speed bump, or "torque" the truck. I have heard over time this can wear through the differential cover. My link just barely rubs the cover, but grinding may prevent some future problem.



I just want to note that I do like my lukes link and think its a great alternative to the purchase of a whole new track bar assembly.

 

[Sled Puller]

I'll double check, and try to twist it to see if it will hit.

 

[Chipstien]

I was under the impression that there isn't enough clearance to use a Luke's Link on the Tie-rods. Sledpuller, if you do them let us know how it works. My tie-rods are loose but refuse to replace them with another piece of junk.

 

[Bloomy]

Chipstien:

I know a few people that have them on the tie rods as well. There is a redesigned version as of a few months ago that are a 1/4" or so shorter. This was to alleviate hitting the differential. I am going to do them as well. When my track bar went bad the first time the truck went into the "death wobble" and the welded bracket was actually torn off the frame. :--) I wasn't on the TDR at the time and didn't know anything about the luke's links so I welded it up and installed a new track bar. So they are my next step.



Thomas

 

[scotmartin]

Has any had a real hard time getting the ball joint to seperate from the frame? I used a 3 pound hammer and a ball joint seperator and it is still there. I will try some bigger/better tools at work.



Scot

 

[Idaho CTD]

Scotmartin,



I dont know if you have been lifting the frame or axle but it does help to loosen up the front and relieve undue stress for removing the trac bar.



I have done all 5 joints on two of my trucks and the difference is amazing. It makes the front end so tight I think the steering box is now the loosest part of the front end. I guess the steering box fix is next on the list. BTW for 250. 00 you can get all 5 joints and the poly bushing shipped, about what a new trac bar costs. I think on the last truck it took me 2 1/2 to 3 hrs. to do all the joints.

 

[scotmartin]

I had the track bar loose on the other end when I was trying to get it out. I could easily move the bar up and down.



Scot

 

[krs]

Scot,



My last resort is heat with a propane torch. you don't wan't to use acetylene because it's too easy to get the parts too hot. Put on pressure with your puller, heat it up, then whack it hard on top.

 

[big barney]

Scot



I had the same problem. I pounded on that p. o. s. for two hours. The 'thing wouldn't budge. With a little help from my friends and a pittman arm puller that thing was off of there in 30 seconds.



Curt