Major electrical problem

[jdurham]

I was going to post a photo to show you guys how badly burned up the headlight switch connector was, but I can't get it to post. I keep getting a message that my photo is too large, even though it is smaller than the maximum posted size. What now?

 

[Philip]

I Have an idea how bad it is. You sould have seen the one I switched out a while back in my truck. Is was burnt up for two sockets on each side. What was weird. I didn't smell anything getting hot. I work in plastic injection molding. So I know the smell.



Forrest I wish that would work. I need my front axle rebuilt. Ball joints and inner seals.

 

[jdurham]

It burned into two seperate pieces. It was a really bad smell as well. Also, I while I was searching for grounds, I found a place on the cylinder head where it looked like it had been smoked. I started the engine, and there is an exhaust manifold leak. Is this a common problem , or am I just extremely lucky?

 

[Philip]

I haven't worked on the B series Cummins much to know if manifold leaks are commen. But if I base my answer on the 350's and 903's I have worked on. I would say that something is wrong. The only time I have seen leaks on them were broken mainfolds. Long hard runs followed by high water = crack. The trucking company I used to work for. We replaced one or two a year. Mostly caused by water hitting hot manifolds.

 

[jdurham]

I haven't removed it yet (got to get gaskets), but it feels like it is a blown gasket between the manifold and head.

 

[Philip]

Be carefull on removing the bolts. Get some Blaster penatating fluid. It is one of the best I have found so far. Soak it good. Let it set for a while. Then warm it up. Recoat. Then try to break them loose. Just work slow. Don't try to force it. Or you might be drilling out bolts. This exhaust manifold setup reminds me of The F### FE big blocks. If you have ever tried to replace the manifolds on a 390 you know what I mean.



Retap the holes to clean them out. I would replace the bolts also. IMHO

 

[jdurham]

Well, that sounds like FUN. I had a 390 and still have nightmares about it, and I have a 428 I will soon be rebuilding in my Talladega that I don't look forward to. I guess I will get some penetrating oil and try it over the next few days to loosen it up as much as possible. Thanks for the tip. as I HATE drilling out bolts.



Anyone know where I can order an odometer drive gear?

 

[Forrest Nearing]

LOL! we were JUST talking about 390's on another board I'm on... WORST job I ever did was install a pair of Hooker SuperComp headers on a '69 stang w/ a 390... absolute nightmare... I'll never touch another FE, and if I ever get my hands on a 1st gen mustang or falcon, the FIRST order of business will be front halfing it w/ an aftermarket mustang II setup!!!



Forrest

 

[Philip]

The speedo drive gear as of about a year and a half ago you could still get them from Dodge. I checked on them because my speedo was off about 7 mph. I didn't get one at the time. I just put larger tires on to correct it. I had the stock 205' on it at the time. I went up to a set of 235/16/80. It put my speedo right on the money then. Plus the 205's looked small for the truck. They didn't fit the wheel well. They looked like go cart tires on it. Mine is a W350 with duals.



I don't know the ratio of you truck. If yours is two wheel drive. Check the junk yards. The 1/2 ton>3/4 ton came out with the same gear ratios as our trucks did. So finding a pinion gear souldn't be that hard. I am not sure. But I would bet the 727 has the same drive gear the 518 does. There wouldn't be any reason for Dodge to change the high priced mold to make this part. Just for adding an OD unit into the tail housing of the 727. They would take the cheap way out and reuse the same part if they could.



I am NOT a Ford fan. But if I did ever get another one. It would be an older model. It would only have the FE series of engine. Other than the exhaust manifold problem mentioned before. This series of engine will last forever with very little care. Parts are cheap. Except aluminium intakes. I don't leave the 100# stock boat anchers on them. Plus I do not leave the Ford carbs on them eather. (It would be interesting to see one with port fuel injection on it).



Don't forget to use antisieze on the bolts when you replace your gaskets on the cummins. Use the copper based (NOT the silver) type of antisieze. The copper based holds up better under high heat. You might have to hit an industrial supply store to get this. Most auto stores have the silver based antisieze. The silver based won't hold up even at the 400 to 600 temp range we work in doing injection molding. After about 3 months bolts are locked tight with the silver. Copper is good for a lot longer time.

 

[Philip]

I forgot to add. I would also have the mainfold resurfaced. If it has been runing for a while with the gasket blown. It could have cut the mainfold. So to stop this problem from coming back. A resurface would be a good idea.



Now if you want to make the manifold look better for a couple of years. Have it bead blasted. Then use VHT header paint on it. That big chunk of cast iron will soak it up like a sponge. It will be good for a couple of years. The header paint is made for around 1500 degrees temp range. Our engines run around 1000 on exhaust temps. (For a turned up one). So the paint will last for a while.

 

[jdurham]

Thanks for the tip. I have a bead blaster and Eastwood stainless steel high temp coating that I was planning on using, but I didn't think about the resurfacing, but it sounds like a good idea!