Make AC supply cooler air

[Souders]

Used this method for two years to make vented air and AC air cooler. Installed a ball valve in line that provides hot coolant to the HVAC box. Line is located on turbo side of engine. I will try to attach a picture.

 

[PatrickMarshall]

I've seen this before on Diesel forums. Does it actually lower the A/C temps?

 

[Bob4x4]

My question would be how long do the valves hold up.Engine coolant about 200 degrees and most the ball valves that I have seen that had any labeling were rated at 100 degrees

 

[Souders]

My question would be how long do the valves hold up.Engine coolant about 200 degrees and most the ball valves that I have seen that had any labeling were rated at 100 degrees

I have used this current valve for two years without any problems. Ball valves used in hot water supplies of most homes are subject to 120 degrees Min. I have inspected the valve each time I have the hood up and found no problem.

 

[Souders]

Keeping the hot water out of the HVAC box makes the AC more efficient. I could easily put a gauge in the dash vent and test it both ways. I will try to run some tests in a few days, we are due some 90 degree days.
Greatly noticed a difference in the outside vented air with the valve closed. Much cooler, almost the same as the air outside the truck.

I am of the age when you wanted fresh air in an auto you reached down and opened a vent near your feet.

 

[rscurtis]

I see two problems here. First, if you want a blast of warm, dehumidified air to clear the windows in a rainstorm, you don't have it. Second, could this cut the coolant flow to the transmission cooler?

 

[Bob4x4]

I have used this current valve for two years without any problems. Ball valves used in hot water supplies of most homes are subject to 120 degrees Min. I have inspected the valve each time I have the hood up and found no problem.

Thats good to hear.It may well be a viable option for those of us living in arid enviroments looking for a bit more cool air

 

[Motorhead]

I have thought about cutting a small access door on the HVAC box close to where the temperature probe inserts into the evaporator. This would give me the ability to move it to a "Warmer" place on the evaporator but not warm enough to cause the evaporator to freeze up. When I replaced the compressor on my '07, 5.9, I COMPLETELY cleaned out the whole system, replaced the receiver drier, compressor and oriface tube and installed Non Freon, Dura-cool refrigerant and their oil. 100 degrees outside, I see 40-42 degrees at the center vent.
I think that the valve idea is good too. I was looking into a valve that I could hook a push-pull cable to, mounted in the cab and the valve being a type that when closed off to the cabin, it bypassed the water/coolant to the heater core return line.

 

[Bob4x4]

I have thought about cutting a small access door on the HVAC box close to where the temperature probe inserts into the evaporator. This would give me the ability to move it to a "Warmer" place on the evaporator but not warm enough to cause the evaporator to freeze up. When I replaced the compressor on my '07, 5.9, I COMPLETELY cleaned out the whole system, replaced the receiver drier, compressor and oriface tube and installed Non Freon, Dura-cool refrigerant and their oil. 100 degrees outside, I see 40-42 degrees at the center vent.
I think that the valve idea is good too. I was looking into a valve that I could hook a push-pull cable to, mounted in the cab and the valve being a type that when closed off to the cabin, it bypassed the water/coolant to the heater core return line.

We used that design many years ago but had extra hardware to fail /repair

 

[Souders]

I see two problems here. First, if you want a blast of warm, dehumidified air to clear the windows in a rainstorm, you don't have it. Second, could this cut the coolant flow to the transmission cooler?

Not living in a climate that would require other than venter air to clear the windshield I do not see a problem. The transmission cooler does not use this line on the 5.9. Still plan to run some tests checking Temp. this week.

 

[PatrickMarshall]

I think I'm going to do this. Even lowering the cab temps just a little bit would be nice here in AZ. May just change that hose out at the same time as it has a few years on it, just to be safe.

 

[gtwitch]

Why not just get a cable operated valve from a 60s 70s dodge,chev or ford, these usually outlasted the pickups and 200* coolant is not an issue nor is cable operation, Just a thought!

gtwitch in wyomint

 

[ScottLewis]

Hmm, a valve with a cable that you would operate manually when you wanted to regulate water flow through the heater. I'm sure those of us with more experience (age) can remember way bay back when even heaters were optional in cars and that was how they operated. You pulled a knob that said heat and turned a knob that said fan. All the warmth discharged at the passengers feet although some fancy models even had hoses to route some warm air to the windshield for defrost. Everything gradually became more automatic, and probably more effective as technology advanced. Now with dual zones we can set the temp we want for each side and just not even think about it. Even the side window receive warmed, conditioned air to keep them clear without wiping them with your coat sleeve.

While I sometimes long for the "good old days", I don't think I want to go back.

 

[Souders]

I think I'm going to do this. Even lowering the cab temps just a little bit would be nice here in AZ. May just change that hose out at the same time as it has a few years on it, just to be safe.

Let us know what you think.

 

[jhenderson]

I installed a ball valve. The valve with a cable actuator is called (of all things) a truck valve. At least that's what everybody I know calls it.

 

[JR]

Works pretty good for me. I took this just a little bit ago, 88 degrees with near 100% humidity. Notice the a/c wasn't even on max yet.

The ol' 98's still kickin strong in all aspects.

BTW, I used a 316 SS ball valve that is rated for 300 degrees. They have a surplus of them where I work

 

[Motorhead]

Are you using an IR temperature gun? If so aiming directly into the duct won't give you an accurate reading. Still....If you noticed cooler temps then the shut off valve is a success.

 

[seafish]

Why not just get a cable operated valve from a 60s 70s dodge,chev or ford, these usually outlasted the pickups and 200* coolant is not an issue nor is cable operation, Just a thought!

gtwitch in wyomint

That's a good idea...something like this--

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Heater-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35d30eb573&vxp=mtr

 

[JR]

It is an IR gun but it also reads ambient temps and I was holding the sensor at the vent outlet to get the reading.
I know 88 degrees isn't hot by some standards and once you approach triple digits or even upper 90's the a/c will not work nearly as efficient but it does indeed make a difference.