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Make your own Diesel .46 Cents

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Alcohol/alkaline method alternatives

turbine oil?

JEricson said:
Mundgyver



I also looked into this. but making biodiesdel and the DSE formulation are two entirely different processes. making biodiesel is reprocessing WVO in a still using methane and lye. the DSE process is a blend of WVO kerosine, gas and several additives. just filter, mix and go.



Cummins and I believe all diesel engines should run NO gasoline mixed with their fuel. Very bad. So how much gasoline does this system use?

Those are my thoughts.
 
brods said:
Whoa, don't get suckered by the hype. 63 cents? not likely! Time IS money. People seem to forget that. It takes what, about 5 minutes filling up at the pump. Bet it takes lots more time making a tank of home-brew. Time spent tinkering with the setup, replacing filters, cleaning up, etc. Time sourcing supplies and gathering them up. Time spent transferring the stuff to storage and then transferring it into the truck. All that time adds up and is worth money.



Plus every single thing that has to be paid for, from the equipment to containers to consumables to electricity to waste disposal costs, all count towards the price per gallon. Fuel and wear and tear on your truck while running around collecting supplies counts as well.



Any mods you have to do to your truck adds to the overall cost.



I'm not trying to discourage you, it still may work and may even be cheaper than at the pump, but don't kid yourself, its not going to cost even close to . 63 per gallon.

I'd say if it cuts into my TV, or internet time, it's well worth it. I'm talking making bio, or even this(imo) snake oil.



Who pays you for your leisure time, that's what I want to know. :-laf
 
DSpencer said:
Cummins and I believe all diesel engines should run NO gasoline mixed with their fuel. Very bad. So how much gasoline does this system use?

Those are my thoughts.

Exactly, and a heated filter? Not on my VP44 equiped truck, the elctronics don't like added heat.
 
dspencer



a 30 gallon batch would use 1 1/2 gallons. . i have communicated with DSE on this and they say it is not harmful and is needed for a complete fuel burn under compression.
 
skargo



DSE says that a heated filter is not needed but is ok to use. HOWEVER. the 98 1/2 thru 2002 24v use the vp44 pump which is lubricated with fuel, so i agree with you in this case. my truck is a 1997 12valve which is lubricated by the crankcase oil. i just feel that in my case it is better to add some heat to the WVO.
 
the setup shown on Spike Tv is from http://www.azurebiodiesel.com ... the people that got left out of the new issue (see TDR homepage)



The setup runs $3000. 00 they are in Iowa.



@ $2. 50 a gallon this setup would pay for itself in 1200 gallons... . you can make 40 gallons of useable diesel every 24 hours if you don't put it into barrels to settle so lets do that math 1200 / 40 = 30, so if you make a batch a day for a month for your use only you can pay for it with the difference in what it costs to make the diesel versus buying it, now if you find others wanting it too and could sell to them well then the possibilities are endless.
 
JEricson said:
skargo



DSE says that a heated filter is not needed but is ok to use. HOWEVER. the 98 1/2 thru 2002 24v use the vp44 pump which is lubricated with fuel, so i agree with you in this case. my truck is a 1997 12valve which is lubricated by the crankcase oil. i just feel that in my case it is better to add some heat to the WVO.

I agree, I was thinking of the VP44 users. I think anyone using WVO owuld benefit from heating, we are in agreement there. :)
 
JEricson said:
dspencer



a 30 gallon batch would use 1 1/2 gallons. . i have communicated with DSE on this and they say it is not harmful and is needed for a complete fuel burn under compression.



Maybe you could get the opinion of Cummins, Bosch or even this site instead of DSE. Do a search. I am no expert but 0% gasoline is the accepted limit of gasoline in our trucks. Sometimes people put gas in their tanks by mistake and I imagine a small amount once or twice might not hurt but gasoline even in small amounts wears your IP whether its the VP44 or the P100.

As far as a needing it for a complete burn, I think the volatility of gasoline at the amount you say will advance timing. According to the people running wvo in diesels it burns just fine without adding to it. The problem occurs on startup and shutdown when the cylinder temps and fuel temps are low enough to cause the problems. It seems the wvo is too thick and also can coat the cylinder walls leading to premature piston ring failure. All they are doing is thinning it out. Not safely by my reading.





Maybe a company wanting to take your money might not have your best interests at heart. But do what you want. Desperate times and all but it may cost you.
 
Last edited:
throttlejockey



the gasoline is intended to increase the burn rate of the WVO. the diesel service is intended to clean the pump and injectors. the kerosine is the thinner. the DSE secret additive. your guess is as good as mine.
 
Heck of alot better than $3/gal I tell you..... Even at 50/50 blend it will cost $1. 80/gal. 75/25 blend ... $1. 10/gal. <-----Im an interstate truck driver, lots of time on my hands to "think" and "figure"



I bought a 30 gal. Barrel today, I will wait for the instructions on what to get next. Still havent gotten it yet but heard it was a week backordered so I will wait one more week.
 
Cetane vs. Octane

Doesn't gasoline resist compression ignition? Shouldn't adding gasoline to the fuel decrease the cetane number and increase octane? It sounds to me that the claims that gasoline helps increase the burn rate may not be exactly correct. The more I hear about this diesel secret stuff the more it sounds like snake oil. Maybe this technology worked back in WWII when injector pump technology wasn't what it is today. With today's tighter tollerances, the pumps are less forgiving and I don't think it would be wise to run this stuff. Just my $. 02.
 
jwgary



i don't think the gasoline resists compression ignition. i think once compression causes ignition the burn rate will increase because it is more volital than the WVO. i am not even looking at the DSE as much as i am looking at the rest of the formulation. it may very well be snake oil. even if i left the DSE out, the formulation makes sense to me. from what i have researched i would not do this with the 98 1/2 through 2002 either because vp44 pump and common rail injection.
 
As I've been researching the issues of using bioD, the one point that concerned me that I haven't (hadn't?) found a solution for was the cloud point (as well as the cold filter pour point) of bioD. B100 bioD starts to get crystals at somewhere around 40 to 55 degrees, depending on the base oil.



So I called up Gary Pipenger at Amalgamated, Inc. (remember the additive written up in the TDR magazine a few years ago, and the subject of occasional threads on additives here?) and asked about his TDR blend on bioD. That led on to a discussion of their B20 Winterizer they have to lower the cloud and pour points of B20.



In the midst of the conversation I brought up the advertisement that stared this thread. His comment was that even 1% gasoline in diesel is a dangerous mix. Gasoline raises the point of pre-ignition in a CI (compression ignition) engine. Apparently, this situation tends to twist and snap cranks and severely deform piston rods. Not good. So I think I'll stay away from anything that recommends or requires gasoline be added to my fuel.



BTW: Gary said his TDR formula works quite well with bioD. And their B20 Winterizer lowers the pour point of B20 nearly to that of straight #2 diesel with the TDR additive (good to about -20* F). The winterizer was only tested with soy methyl ester, however. Other base oils may produce somewhat different results. In any case, since I was about out of their TDR formula, I ordered another pail - my third - of the TDR forumla and a pail of their winterizer. I'm shooting for a B50 mix this winter. I'll do some tests of the mix in the freezer first. I may have to settle with B20 +/- until next spring.



-Jay
 
Jay,



Question, do you burn Bio-Diesel to use the additive you mentioned or do you blend this in with you regular # 2. Having started this thread and not having any experience with Bio-Diesel, I was very surprised by what appears to be many, many different ways to skin the cat so to speak. I am interested in Bio and would consider even a go a making it, but am very unwilling to experiment with my rig until I can prove to myself that I will do no harm to the engine. At this point other than what is posted by individuals on this site, I know no one personally that I could acutally see the processes being implemented.



I'm a little slow on the learning curve, but once I understand it, no problems.



Do I sound confused enough :D
 
Right now, I am not brewing, or even yet using, bioD. There's a station in town offering B20, but it's like $3. 85/gal! However I am accumulating the parts to build a processor. Just need to aquire the main processor tank to begin putting it all together.



I have no problem running home-brewed bioD in my truck. Its been done by many for years. Certainly you want to be careful and brew it right, but I think it just fine. I'll probably start with a B20 mix and work up from there. I don't forsee going straight B100, but maybe B75 next summer.



One person using B100 is BPINE here on the TDR. I found some of his posts in one if the bioD forums the other day.



As to the additive, once I receive it, I'll add the recommended amount to a sample of my kitchen-brewed test batch and put it in the freezer with a thermometer to see what happens.



-Jay
 
JGK said:
One person using B100 is BPINE here on the TDR. I found some of his posts in one if the bioD forums the other day.



As to the additive, once I receive it, I'll add the recommended amount to a sample of my kitchen-brewed test batch and put it in the freezer with a thermometer to see what happens.



-Jay





I would be interested in your results, so far it looks like my B 100 will work at about 38 degrees. If I put a sample in the fridge it starts to cloud at 38. I can freeze it solid and when it thaws it looks just like it did before. What is the name of the additive you are testing JGK? and I assume you are adding it to homemade Bio correct?
 
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