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They consisted of a gusseted 1 and 1/2 inch inside daimeter tube welded to the frame in front and to his Titan class 5 hitch in the rear. they then ran a piece of 1 and 1/2 inch outside daimeter tube thru the inside of the first piece and drilled and pinned it. They welded Happijac mounts to the tubes to hook tiedowns to. The larger tubes are short enough that when you pull the pins and the small tubes out you won't bust your shins on the large (welded to the frame) tubes. Hope this will give you something to work with. This setup works very well. The rear tubes double as a post to mount large mud flaps on, a couple rings hooked to a mud flap, slide over the tube and pin in place. It works like a charm!
I made mine on a Phord years ago, worked great, never looked back. I ran a piece of 2x2 box tube accross the frame of the truck. I welded it to spacers to set it lower than the frame and became my front running board mount also. Used threaded rod and some plate steel to fasten it to the truck frame, with the plate over the top of the frame, and the threaded rod pulling it up in compression. This way, no welding on the truck. Also, very important, was to allow for give and movement of the camper while operating. I installed threaded eyebolts on the end of the crosstube to accept the tiedowns. My tiedowns were 1/4 load binders, and light chain. These were hooked to fence stretching springs you can buy in the farm store. The spring is in compression and fail safe, and correct size to apply load and allow some give. The chain, binder, and spring were covered with flexible plastic tubing from a sump pump. With the plastic tubing providing good clean appearance and went over the binder handle so the handle could not come loose. Also, the threaded rod eyes could be adjusted along their threaded portion to vary the spring load. Worked very good for many years with a 4000 lb 12 ft camper. Also made the same arrangement in the rear, only used angle iron accross the back step bumper, bolting it to the step bumper.