Making the throw out bearing slider lube-able while installed in truck

[Motorhead]

I worked at UPS for 30 years and while I was there, most every truck was a standard shift. You can imagine the amount of clutch pedal work we did in one day. After a while, the clutch pedal could get stiff when operating. The mechanics, on the package cars we had that were FORD chassis with a 300CI 6 cyl and a New Process 435 4 speed trans, they would install a zirk fitting on the throw out bearing collar. The mechanic would hollow out the zirk in that he removed the ball and spring in the zirk. They attached a short length of 1/4 inch fuel line to the zirk on the throw out bearing and another zirk, with the ball and spring left in. He would then remove the bottom inspection cover, pull down the tube with the zirk and give it ONE squirt with a grease gun. The clutch then freed up and felt normal.
I am getting ready to replace the clutch in my '07, 5.9, G-56. I bought a SOUTH BEND all organic kit. I waited until Peter from South bend resourced an American made throw out bearing.
I am replacing ALL the parts in the clutch actuating area so I had a fork and the throw out bearing to work with. I removed my SLAVE cylinder on my truck the other day to see if I would be able to fish out the lube line I am making up to get additional lube to the T.O. Brng. slider. There will be enough room by removing the slave cylinder and give the zirk ONE squirt ONLY. You don't want to over lube the slider so it doesn't get into the clutch. I PRE-LOAD the grease line BEFORE I will install the trans so I know when I put one squeeze of grease into the zirk that one squeeze will go to the collar.
I am going to be the Guinea Pig on this. I am able to work with my friend that owns the trans shop where we are going to replace my clutch. I will report back.
The first picture shows the T.O. Brng. mounted with the hose and zirk. The third will show the grease gun end. I will cut this hose to length and safety wire around the hose where the zirk fitting slips into the hose. The last picture is the bore of the T.O. Brng. where the grease ring is. I used a 5/16-24 tap for the angled zirk fitting.

 

[ranger 393]

I worked for Freightliner Truck Man. for 14 years,and alot of what we built had the same setup. I seriously considered this before I put my clutch in, but I don't have access to a trans shop so I decided to hold off. I was actually thought o drilling a hole in the bottom of the bell housing for the zerk and hose to come through a rubber groment. I like what you have done I will be curious to how it works, please keep me posted.

 

[sag2]

I would agree that the best way would be to drill the bell housing and run the hose outside. Looks like a good idea.

 

[mwilson]

Spicer offers these, custom made for the job. Big trucks all have this...

Available in 6", 8" and 12" lengths. There may be more..

 

[jhenderson]

That's a good fix. Too bad it can't really be done for the bearing itself. In almost 400,000 miles on my 3rd gen I replaced the release bearing 3 times. Each time I was warned of the coming failure by a squealing from the bearing. Going underneath you could see the balls lying in the crack between the trans and the bell housing. They separated from the plastic retainer/race. Each bearing failed dry. The balls were pitted and showed signs of heat. Being hydraulically actuated there's no free play and the bearing spins all the time. I'd have paid dearly for a greasable bearing.

 

[AH64ID]

I seem to recall talking to Peter about greasing the input shaft for the throwout bearing and he said NOT to. I guess the grease can cause engagement/disengagement issues.

You may want to ask Peter about this idea.

 

[jhenderson]

That's only a problem if you are over zealous. It can happen on any truck with a greasable release bearing.

 

[AH64ID]

He made it sound like it can even be an issue when a light coating is applied at install. I was having engagement/disengagement issues and one of his first questions was if there was any grease on the input shaft.

Just relaying what I recall from a conversation several years ago.

 

[GCroyle]

A cast iron collar sliding over a steel guide tube, it must be greased. I've seen the results of a dry install, it ain't pretty. Don't forget the fork is moving in an arc motion, guide tube forces straight line movement a dab of grease on fork at collar ears also good thing.

The only fears are excessive grease or a grease tube that dislodges and becomes a foreign object. Controlled greasing by practicing how much is a good refresher dose before bolting up, good plan.

Motorhead is pursuing a good idea.

But to muddy the water, not every clutch release bearing collar requires grease. Many German cars use a non metallic collar with rifling grooves, no grease on those.