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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) making too much power! how do I turn it DOWN!

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) thermostat question

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OK, here's the deal:

Ordered a new transmission from DTT, they suggested I get the 3000 gov kit. I was running a bad ass #8 fuel plate. I install the gov kit and it idles at 1000 and has no bottom end. I call Peirs, and they say either adjust the rocker arm, or better yet, get a #10 plate to go with the 3K kit, (works better they say). I order the #10 plate!



So.....

Today I loosen the gov springs each one "click" (1/4 turn) and the idle is now down around 700 to 800. I then install the #10 plate I just received.



Before, the trans slipped a couple of times when hot (with the #8 plate), and egts were close at 1200 f when floored.



After I installed the gov kit last week, the truck was gut-less, but the trans wont slip, and egts (and boost) were way down.



Today, after installing the #10 plate, I can toast the transmission, I mean it slips BAD on demand (anything over 20 psi of boost)! The EGTS shoot past 1300 f before I let up, and boost is way past 30 psi (stock turbo).



So my problems: one, the egts have got to come down! Two, I need to ease up until I get the new trans in. I have a 500 mile run to make next tuesday with this truck to pick up 8000# trailer. I can leave the cruise off so it wont floor it, but I MUST drop the EGTS!



Can I slide the plate to reduce power? I am at a complete loss as to how this works, but from what I can gather, sliding the plate forward (to the radiator) increases fuel, what affect will sliding it back have? I LOVE the power I have now, and after my new trans is in it will be great! but I cant have the egts up this high!



I have a open (no muffler cat or nuthin!) exhaust, and a amsoil drop in filter.
 
For now, your best bet would be to slide the plate back (towards the cab) and this should help your EGT issues some.
 
Slide your plate towards the rear a lttle at a time to decrease fueling. Bigger turbo wouldn't hurt.

See what you got yourself into?:D
 
So, a bigger turbo... .



I have a 96, which I thought had one of the bigger factory turbos. If I was to upgrade, would I need to complete turbo, or just the exhaust housing, and what turbo/exhaust housing should I be looking for?
 
Originally posted by paulsmith

So, a bigger turbo... .



I have a 96, which I thought had one of the bigger factory turbos. If I was to upgrade, would I need to complete turbo, or just the exhaust housing, and what turbo/exhaust housing should I be looking for?



Well if it's still too much with the plate moved back I will trade you my #11 plate I'm in Iowa and could mail it off to you and you could swap it and mail me back yours



William...
 
I still have the #8 plate I could go back with, but, well.....

I like the power, really like it... . a lot. For now I need to turn it down, but after the trans is in, I will want that power, but need to get those egt's down!



Does anyone think installing a physcotty (sp) type air filter would make a big differance over the drop in amsoil filter?



This is almost as fun as racing a mini van!
 
I don't think a different air filter will have enough impact if you EGT's are already out of control. Sliding the plate back, or as illflem suggest a turbo change will have a significant impact.



You could change out the entire charger to an HX40, but unless you are running big injectors I do not think you have enough fuel for that. Swapping just the exhaust housings should reduce your EGT's. The stock housings are 12cm, you could go to a 14 or even a 16cm. The 16 may be a little large and have a bit too much lag with your DTT auto. The 14's are good for about a 75 degree EGT's reduction over the stock 12's.



What is your peak boost? One thing to keep in mind if your wastegate is disabled or has failed you may be over-boosting the turbo and if this is the case, it is not helping your EGT's much either.



Sliding the plate is your best bet IMHO.
 
if i was you i would call bill you should not be any where near that transmissions limit yet im running 370,3000gsk,#6 plate and i cant walk through my dtt yet so i think you need to talk to bill
 
Yes, slide the plate back.

I have 3k governor springs and a #4 plate (hotter than a #10) slid all the way BACK! I have the AFC housing about ¾ forward with the star wheel a few clicks forward.

Running empty and hot rodding I can see 1500° on the pyro if I keep it in 3rd locked and really crank the rpm.

Towing and running rpm in the low to mid 2k range I don't get temps past 1200°.



Ah yes the trany. I'm getting a rebuild next month.

THEN, the plate goes forward, he he he.
 
Once you open this can of worms, it's interesting getting em back in.

Since you're on a tight deadline with the trailer pickup in a couple of days, you'll have to make do with a few quick crutches.



First thing I'd do is pull the air filter housing and using a hole saw, make a few 2" or larger holes in the dirty side of the housing. You've gotta increase the air in order to burn the additional fuel. The stock housing is now a limiting factor. Also, pull the plastic boot between the housing and the fender opening.



Hook up to a trailer and take a test drive, you may have helped EGT's enough to get by, if you pay attention to things. If not, start sliding the plate back . 010" or . 020" at a time till things are manageable.



When you have time, do a search on Scott's air filter system, and Piers turbo's, his hybrid 35 might be enough for your needs. A phone call wouldn't be a bad idea to discuss your needs.



Also, check out Wildcat Diesel's site.



Good luck,

Ronnie
 
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Peak boost, (Waste gate disabled) is close to 40 psi (I have a 30 psi gauge).



I slid the plate back . 050, (yes 50 thousands). Now boost is down to 30 psi, and egts are below 1200 unless, as was mentioned, I really wind out 3rd gear. Still pulls like a freight train, but the converter seems able to handle the load for now.





My trans is a stock unit of unknown miles (truck has 230,000) and was cooked pulling 15,000#, 13 ft high trailer, in a 30 mph head wind. I have full house DTT trans and converter on order now for 3 weeks. I hope to get it next week :D
 
Paul, sounds like you've got things well in hand now. My mistake on the plate adjustment, I was really trying to lower those egt's ;) .



You should still try the holes in the air filter housing suggestion. Everyone that has opened up the dirty side of the housing has seen a decrease in temps. Not enough to be the end all mod, but it helps. Were I in your shoes, I'd try Scott's new dual inlet system.
 
When you get a chance purchase a HX40 compressor housing and pin wheel, you will think you have a new turbo for $200-250 it makes a huge difference. The Scotty II is also a good investment for helping lower EGTs. If you cut the holes in the stock air box at least cut the 4 1/2" hole as for the Scotty II to blow cool air at the box to offset the hot under hood air that is of no help.

Bruce
 
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