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Manual high idling

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Need help, Truck died

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Just curious if anyone else has noticed that it is very hard to manually idle your truck at 1000-1200 rpms. I had started it the other night when it was about 15 degrees and I let it idle normally for about 30 seconds to get oil pressure up and then I tried to Idle it up manually with my foot to about 1100 rpms. It is darn near impossible. I ease into the peddle and at first it doesn't even move, then it starts to climb slowly to about 950 then instead of continuing up slowly, it takes a big jump all the way to about 1300. So I try to ease off hoping I can hold it at 1100 on the way down and it eases down slowly to about 1200, then falls all the way back to 900 without hardly even moving the peddle. Do I have a bad Throttle position sensor?



TIA
 
Mine's the same - dang near impossible to hold at any low RPM. It's been that way since new and I think it's just the nature of the beast.
 
It's probably the load on the alternator created by your grid heaters cycling on and off and the engine reacting to the increased electrical load. I use a wooden dowel rod between the accelerator pedal and the seat bracket for my high idler (adjusting the engine speed with the power adjust pedal feature) and the RPM moves up and down with the grid heaters cycling. As soon as the grid heaters cease cycling, the RPM remains constant. In warm weather, the A/C compressor cycling on and off gives the same result.



Bill
 
Mine is an 05 as well, and after about a minute, or maybe two minutes it automatically idles itself up to 1000 rpm when it is cold out like that, it takes abit of time, like I say maybe two minutes, but it should do it on its own I would think.
 
RGramlow,



If you start it without holding the service brake down, it will jump right up to 1,000 RPM's. When you step on the service brake, it restarts the timer.
 
I just use a piece of round tubing... 3/4" dia about 22" long (can;t remember the exact measurement). It fits perfectly between the seat rail (right) and the acc. pedal. It won't move unless you actually take it out... so it'll sit like that all day. I can make it idle from normal all the way to 2,000 RPM's.



Surprisingly even here in FL I had ice on the windshield this morning.
 
My '03 does the 1000 rpm high idle too.

Just noticed it the other day. I stopped after a long highway drive and pulled over to let the dog out. after a minute or two, the truck started to idle at 1000 rpm. Seemed like it was supposed to do it, but I didn't know anything about it until then. I've heard about the flash guys were getting for the high idle feature. Is this something different?
 
Spooled-up,



Yes, the flash for the manual high idle is only available on automatics. The manual transmissions have a high idle feature that engages after a few minutes with the temp is below around 32F. Like I was telling RGramlow, if you start the engine without stepping on the service brake, it jumps right up to 1,000 RPM.
 
i know it sounds crazy but i have a 5 speed and i use to able to idle up with the cruise control buttons. I had a TSB done to it for a flashing dash light and now it is gone. Maybe a glitch from the factory but there was one truck that "had" that feature
 
Mine seems to be a little overly sensitive at the smallest incrament possible with the foot to zero position. Use to bug me,but now I'm use to it ! As a matter of fact , sometimes there is almost the "dead pedal" to a very small degree. Like slop in a throttle cable,but I can tell everything is moving as it should , and then a sudden 300 rpm jump. Funny thing how we can adapt to conditions and aviod them as habit. Really showed itself this weekend and taking a long drive in the wifes JEEP. All considering of throttle response and desponse if there is such a word... ... Maybe a throttle position recal will improve some of this and BTW I'm not complaining about this or these conditions,,,,Just comparing. Can somebody refresh me/us on the recal. procedure.

Thanks, Mark T.
 
I know exactly what you are talking about. I added a manual twist lock pull cable to my truck for a high idle. It worked great right after a TPS calibration but would slowly get worse and worse. You could slowly adjust the cable and nothing would happen and the BLAM! right up to 1500rpm or more. Slowly back off the cable and it would just go to idle. If I pulled the battery leads for an hour and calibrated the TPS it would work great. You could adjust the RPM in ~25rpm increments with the manual cable. I just got frustrated with it and finally pulled it out. I think it is just a problem with these TPS sensors. I am not sure if a new one would be any better or not. It will be kind tough to convince DC that it is not working properly. I think an electronic high idle is the only solution. There are a couple companys that make them for the 6 speed, but they are around $400.
 
In answer to the first post: I believe the reason is, that there is only active governor control at idle and at the maximum rpm. In between the throttle effectively controls the rack as such. It's one of the difficulties with an ungoverned diesel. The faster it goes the more fuel injections you get and therefore more speed un ending until the thing self destructs or hits a point where the drag equals the input fuel. Ask anyone who has dealt with a stuck or unconnected rack.
 
Bill Stockard said:
It's probably the load on the alternator created by your grid heaters cycling on and off and the engine reacting to the increased electrical load. I use a wooden dowel rod between the accelerator pedal and the seat bracket for my high idler (adjusting the engine speed with the power adjust pedal feature) and the RPM moves up and down with the grid heaters cycling. As soon as the grid heaters cease cycling, the RPM remains constant. In warm weather, the A/C compressor cycling on and off gives the same result.



Bill



The charging system is bypassed until the grids are done with their heating cycle. Watch the voltmeter, it doesn't go to 14 volt until the grids are done.



The grids heat/cool in a cycle ... ... ... . I would imagine that the the "heated" air charge would result in a better burn and hence and "idle up".



I've notice the inability to manually hold 1,000 or 1,200 RPM with the go pedal, but it's not the alternator.
 
It should high-idle by itself. Mine did it for the first time a couple days ago when it was about mid-20's out. Just make sure the parking brake is on I think.
 
you can have a tsb done so you can use the cruis controll to increes idle rpms my 05 with rev up to 1000 rpm the manul says to due it hold it for a few seconds and then let off the the truck will go up to it and stay. I going to have to try the not step on brake one
 
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