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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Marine pumps? or regular?

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Fuel Filter

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well, i need an injection pump rebuild. most importantly i need something that works, but there's a 370 pump available from joe donelly for a good price. from what i understand, the 370 doesn't have an afc control housing or something like that? they're made for constant throttle, not acceleration. would it be better to get a 300hp pump or a 160/180/215 (<--obviously the best). price is the problem (so no race pumps), but there are some other hp pumps available.



what i want to know is... would the 370 serve me fine or would it be non-user friendly on the road?



Tom
 
I don't know Joe, only his reputation. If he sold a pump I would assume it would be "road ready". (If that were not the case, he might have a different reputation) Sounds like he's a good guy, talk to him first.
 
yeah, i was going to call him tomorrow night anyways... just wanted to clear up some confusion over some old posts i read that the 370 isn't really streetable.
 
The pump I have was disassembled, checked, and reassembled by Scott, the local Bosch pump guy. He set it up to stock specs. It was sold to me, by one of the members of the Cummins land speed record team, as having very low hours of usage. It has an afc and the plungers have retard for easier starting, and are designed for higher static timing than street (read: EPA compliant) pumps that are usually operated at lower rpm. I expect it would be fine for the street, although I haven't run it myself. More details such as timing specs should be available from Bosch or 1-800-diesels (cummins hot line). I haven't looked into it as I haven't run the pump. It is still as assembled by Scott. It has a lift pump on the side, but the hole could be plugged easily if you put it on a Dodge. The 370 engine is rated at 3000 rpm so I suppose it will rev that high in stock form. The pump housing has bosses on the side to mount the Dodge "tripod" for the accelerator linkage, and the mounting flange is the same as Dodge uses. It came with cream colored paint, but now has no paint since Scott tanked the housings and cleaned everything.



That is about all I know about the pump.
 
what's the size of the nut on the pump- it looks something like 30mm? i only have up to 28 and it's still not big enough.



yeah, i bought it off joe. thanks for the help everyone... . once i buy a barring tool and the right size nut, then i'll be fine to do it myself.



Tom
 
Tom: The nut is big enough that you could use an SAE socket on it..... even if it's a little loose..... and not worry about rounding it off.



For the life of me - I can't remember what size nut that thing is..... but I do know that some of 'em are a sonofagun to take off.....



Let us know how it turns out... . and call me if you get stuck.



Matt
 
The nut is 30 mm = 1. 181" vs. 1-3/16" which is 1. 187" so I'd much prefer the metric socket since you have to buy one anyway. I have experienced some of those nuts being so tight I use a 1/2" drive long ratchet with a 3' cheater pipe on it. DON'T torque over about 140 ft lb. The threads strip on the pump shaft at about 175 ft lb, and that gets real expensive.



It's an experience doing a pump for the first time. I sent some tips by PM, and hope they help. If you are an rpm hog, you might tighten the gov springs one click as it is easier before installation. The pump is supposed to go to 3000 stock, and stock is how Scott set it.



Again, after installation and tightening the 30 mm nut, pour about 3/4 qt. of oil into the governor housing (remove the afc plug with 5/16" or 8 mm allen wrench. The oil will go in only very slowly through the star wheel hole. Don't forget to remove the timing blade from the side of the pump and turn it around so the pump can rotate.



This is a very rare pump, one that is never sold by Bosch on yearly special at lower price. Since it was used on the highest hp B engine, I wanted to check it out, and jumped on the chance to buy one. I wanted to see what was different about it, but ended up not using it or anything from it. I felt a boater would want it stock and I might get rich selling it to him :D Oh, well, I found a starving student instead, but maybe his truck will run better with it, just skim over the waves, errrr, the pavement :D



Meanwhile, poor old Sickly is limping along arthritically on worn out parts :rolleyes: Next year I gotta buy something good for him and find the [censored] hp level :)
 
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marine pump

98 rammer,

i have a 260hp marine pump. it is great for everyday driving and made great power(360hp/1200tq with 370 injectors) but was maxed out for internal adjustments.



if you are building a high hp pump, it my not be for you. i dont know if this pertains to the 370hp pump, but my pump could not be set for full rack travel(21mm) due to the retard feature. it was "maxed out" at 16mm.



the pump was great. i had a #10 plate with a 4000rpm kit. the truck would just haul.



if i was doing it again for only about 350hp(my pump for example) i would do it again.



joe,



hope this doesnt hurt the sale of the pump, i have had my pump checked on the stand twice ($400 a crack)to figure out why i was only getting 360 hp. and finally got the real answer just last week.



not trying to offend anyone just bringing up some new knowledge on the marine pumps



grizz
 
grizz, thaks for the info. the best pump is the 215 pump as joe has explained. however, since the 370 he had had a full rebuild and was at a great price comparatively, i just had to get it.



i'll have to buy that barring tool and 30mm socket next week. even with another person and a 1/2" rachet on the balancer, i cannot get that pin in.



we'll see how things progress in the end.

thanks for the help all!



Tom
 
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