Master Cylinder?

[J DeMaio]

Hey guys:



My anti lock light and brake light have been on for a while and when i checked my brake fluid the other day, the smaller resivor towards the front was almost empty, there are no leaks anywhere. The brakes also don't feel right because they don't stop you that quick anymore. Thanks for the help.



John

 

[f.boyle]

might try the master but I got the master when my brakes sucked, they still do ?Try bleeding them. I believ my mster only cost 60 with a core 0f 22 so you may check that out and get a rebuilt one. good luck.

Frank

 

[83 crew cab]

j try and disconect the battery for about 5 min sohuld reset the anti lock George

 

[RDusch]

Go for the new master cylinder, i went thru 2 rebuilt units that did the same thing, finaly bought a new one from NAPA and have had no more problems ... ... ..... Rick

 

[JLEONARD]

The battery only needs to be disconnected for a few seconds to reset the anti-lock light. I know, I've done it enough. According to the manual there is also a fuse in the panel that will do this, but disconnecting the battery is actually easier.

I also put in a new NAPA master cylinder ... didn't solve my light problem though, but since the front and rear everything was being replaced I thought I'd do that too for peace of mind.

My light comes on every two or three weeks. It will stay on for a day or two, then go out.

But the brakes always feel good and seem to work ok.

 

[ageorge]

brake light

On an 89 that I had previously, the anti lock light came on at the same time I noticed a low ringing sound in the driveline. A couple days later, after searching high and low for why, Iwent to back up and it hesitated to do so. I stepped on the throttle a little heavier, and heard a "Big Bang". I pulled the rear end cover, and found the tone ring (which is pressed on to the carrier behind the ring gear) had come off and got in between the ring and pinion. Might check that if you hear any funny noises. Al

 

[J DeMaio]

It does make a deep growl now when mashin on the loud pedal at low RPM's. Could it have anything to do with the rear end? I also read a tsb that states that growling at low RPM's is the clutch and they all do this. Anyway, they still feel funny and don't seem to be the strongest.



Thanks,



John

 

[Case500D]

Hi John,



Have the brakes been worse in the cooler/cold weather of winter? If so I would also look at replacing the master cylinder and vaccuum booster. It is about a $215 job that takes about 1. 5 hours. My brake light and ABS light would come on in the winter and the brakes would fade to nothing. However, they worked fine in the summer or when it was above 50 degrees. The master cylinder, vaccuum booster combo worked for me. You can hook a vaccuum guage onto your booster and check it. Also when you shut your truck off, depress the brake pedal and hold it down. If you hear air leaking, your booster is junk. Hope this helps.



Jeremy

 

[hdm48]

John, your warning light is trying to tell you something. That fluid went somewhere. I'll bet you will find the warning light was set by the proportioning valve because of the loss of pressure on one side. most likely the rears.

I would check it quick.



good luck --dave--

 

[DieselBuzz]

I'm with dave

If the fluid is low and the brakes aren't working that well. I would suspect the rear wheel cyclinders or an oil seal leak ruining the shoes. Sorry to be pessimistic but you should pull the drums to be safe and sure.

Art

 

[f.boyle]

I have to get a new master for my truck the present rebuilt is leeking from front comartment to the back one and then leeking out the top I'll keep u posted.

Frank good luck

 

[jakestrailer]

My light was coming on at stop signs, after I sat there for a while. I found my booster was leaking. Went to auto(junk)zone and picked up a new assembly (booster and master). Got just what I figured would happen. Booster works great, master cylinder leaks somewhere. Never the less I keep check on the fluid and I have the best brakes I ever had. Darn thing is like driving with air brakes, It will throw you through the steeringwheel. *note* I believe in running low to mid grade brake pads on the front. something has to wear it might as well be cheap pads instead of expensive rotors.

 

[f.boyle]

Gotta Agree on that one $ saving 1on1

Frank

 

[J DeMaio]

Well guys:



That's what mine was doing! When I checked the fluid the front compartment was quite low and the back one was overflowing, what does this mean? Where is the best place to get a NEW master cylinder? Anyone have any luck at all with the rebuilt ones?



Thanks,



John

 

[hdm48]

I will NEVER buy a rebuilt brake part. And NAPA can get new ones. If the fluid is transfering front to back the cups are bad. Replace the unit, don't take chances.

 

[f.boyle]

Got new master from NAPA installed new 1 1/8 rear cylinders so I could bleed it. stops on a dime picks it and gives you 9 cents change:-laf Oo. Replaced rear brake lines back to block on axle. it broke off so now to find a way to re-attach?? It also is the breather tube fore the axle. HHHMMM?Any Ideas?

Frank

 

[Ben Rumson]

No rebuild kits available

I was considering repalcing all of the seals in my MC with a simple rebuild kit - like we used to do every few years on the older vehicles.



Even though my repair manual shows step by step instructions for repalcing the seals, no body carries just the kit. All our local stores including the dealer say that a kit in NOT available.



The only options are for a repalcement rebuilt MC or a New MC for a bit more $. From the sounds of it, the rebuild MC doesn't seem to holding up very well - perhaps a kit (if available) would sport the same poor results.



Good luck.