MAY-DAY (ball joints)

[JApplegate]

i got myself over my head AGAIN..... this time i'm really stuck... . i'm removing the old ball joints and replacing them... i got the new ones... but i can't get the old ones out! i read a post about it but i'm kind of confused... . are the top ones screwed in??? and how do i get them out with out the fancy tool... . or where can i get one of those fancy tool?? and what about the bottom ones??? what is the easiest way to get them out??

also before i get them out. . i got a larger and a smaller one... . which one goes where?





i need help!!! i really need to get it done before 7:30 or before 5 a. m. (i think i'm taking my dad's truck to work tommarrow)

 

[cerberusiam]

Tops ones are threaded in and it takes a big socket. The threads are pretty shallow so if there is a lot of rust and corrosion they disappear. There is a repair kit for just that problem, I think. Most tool suppliers should have the socket but it is kinda spendy. You may be better off taking them to an alignment shop and paying them to do it.



Lower ones are pressed in so need a press, BFH, anvil, or such to R&R them. Once again alignment shop if it is handy.

 

[dpuckett]

In over your head- welcome to the club.

You're in good company. :-laf



Ball joint socket is $65 form the SnapOn guy; think I read of someone here getting one for $50 or so, though. Lots of applications of PB Blaster then get an air supply with a 3/4 drive impact and get that puppy outta there. 1/2in impact with an adaptor will WORK, but is much better with 120psi and 3/4". Install is MUCH easier. If it is like the 93 I first did it on, dont waste your time with a cheater pipe and breaker bar. There are some shallow threads on the new one you will be able to see. Take a wire brush and clean out the upper control arm end of the threads and put the new one in



Lower BJ- BFH (Big F'ing Hammer- 12lb+, preferrably a 20 w/ a short handle) and a punch, chisel, et al, to get a good blow onto the joint itself. Be careful with your aim not to booger up the lower control arm. Again, install is MUCH easier than removal.



Daniel

 

[Greenleaf]

Hey JA, are yah get'n that truck of your fixed up from the bashing it took from the inspection team

Kinda sounded like they hate Dodge Diesels huh?

Sounds like my inspection team who inspect my buses;



"This bus is not road worthy"!! ... ... ... "you got one marker lamp out, (thats one of fifty or so) a piece of reflective tape is peeling at the corner, a tear in a seat cover and an exit decal with the letter "X" scratched off"!!!!!... ... "Scott, what are you thinking"? ... ... ..... "Oh, and by the way, Scott... ..... keep an eye on that left front tire". "It's gotta be getting down around ten or eleven thirty-seconds of tread"... . "and get that scratch painted on the rear bumper before I come back next time"!



:-{} #@$%!



-S

 

[ARedetzke]

Re: In over your head- welcome to the club.

Originally posted by dpuckett



BFH (Big F'ing Hammer- 12lb+, preferrably a 20 w/ a short handle)

Good lord, that is a BFH, do you have to have friends over to help you swing that big SOB????

AJ

 

[MMiller]

Nope, swing it with one hand and hold the punch with the other!! Thats why you want one with a short handle.



Work on Cat equipment long enough and you get mighty handy with a BFH. The politically correct term is BIH= big, intercoursing hammer! My tech school teacher informed us of that one!



Michael

 

[ARedetzke]

Don't get me wrong, I'm all about BFHs. I've just never had to use one that big. Usually my 4 pounder takes care of all my problems. Looks like I just found a new tool to buy.

 

[dpuckett]

Re: Re: In over your head- welcome to the club.

Originally posted by ARedetzke

Good lord, that is a BFH, do you have to have friends over to help you swing that big SOB????

AJ

Nope, do it myself, just like MMiller suggested. Maybe it is only a 16; it is a good deal bigger than the head on Mom's 12#, though. Guy I work for has it- has about a 18" handle, and the huge head on it. I'm only good for half a dozen swings before I have to switch hands, though.



Hey dont do anything half arsed.



-DP

 

[MMiller]

I got a couple of sayings to live by.



1: There ain't nothin a little more fuel won't solve!



2: When all else fails get a bigger hammer!



You know a guy is serious when he has about a 12# sledge hammer that is WELDED to a 18" solid shaft for a handle! A guy I worked with had one of these, I believe its called a weapon of choice!!



Michael

 

[wtrenholm]

I used a large pipe wrench and a cheater pipe on my uppers, I forgot the socket at work and still had to change them that weekend. Crude but effective.



If the threads strip when tightening, I've tacked in plenty of Mopar ball joints with a couple well placed wire feed boogers.



On the lowers, I recommend a ball joint c-clamp press, only like $80 from tool flyers like ATD, basically the same as the OTC tool but lots cheaper. Alot of parts stores stock them. Plus the thing works nice for u-joints also. I also change sickle bushings on my haybine with out pulling the sickle out in the field. Save up some old bearing races and a couple pieces of 1/4" plate any you can use the thing with all kinds of interesting jigging.



Later,

Wayne

 

[JApplegate]

one side done!!!!

well my uncle came over and we got the driver's side apart... . then 3 days later my nieghbor came over and he put the driver side together... Oo. and i started to get the right side apart... i got the spindel off... . but the top ball joint wouldn't come out for any thing... and we couldn't get the lower A-frame bolt out to get the lower ball joint out :{ ... . well today at noon we got some JD buster (i think) and with my uncle's socket and i 4 foot pipe on the wrench and a BFH we got to top one out Oo. but the bolt won't come out for anything!!!! so i'm gonna keep spraying the bolt with the oilly stuff that melts foam cups... and keep beating on it with a BFH..... and hope fully it will come out!! if not... . i got conections... and he said that his buddy can get them out with no problem..... i want to meet this guy now...

as you can see... i have had 3 people help me with these ball joints so far. . well i though i keep you guys informed sorry bout taking so long but i got to work all day before i go back to school so i can buy stuff for the truck

 

[dpuckett]

Yup, get it all done now while you still have a little time. Sounds like you may need to get Tammy over to help you out :-laf BTW- you never did get me an email address for her... .....



-DP

 

[JApplegate]

HELP!!!!!! *crys* this darn bolt won't come out for any thing!!!!!! i thought bout flipping the truck on the front and pressing it out (but i like my bumber the way it its) and it's been a week. i'm thinin bout trading it in..... please i'm begging... for any suggestions!!!!!

p. s. tammy really hates me now... ... me and her brother where having a hammer trowing contest (BFH)..... and she pulled in at the wronge time *smiles* put a nice dent in her fender... .

 

[tugboatphil]

Jimmy,



My son in law "borrowed" the tools he needed for ball joints from the Advance Auto Parts store. By that, I mean he left a deposit and when he returned the tools, got it back. Now his was a half ton Ford. I don't know if ours are that much larger, but it might be worth a phone call to see if anyone near you has a deal like that.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

when you say "bolt" do you mean the balljoint stud that's in the spindle? you need to wail on the SPINDLE w/ the BFH... hit it all around the eye surrounding the stud, and it'll usually fall right out. when all else fails, break out the red wrench!



Forrest

 

[JApplegate]

no i'm pulling the lower A frame (thing that hold the spring up) off... . and there is one bolt that holds it on... .

 

[dpuckett]

You beter have a spring compressor, as the coil spring will sproing on ya when you get the bolt out. You take the rubber boot of the lower joint and sprayed with PB Blaster (WD40, JB80 et al, aint as good, IMO)? The press from AutoZone, et al, is barely big enough to fit, but if you can get it on there, it will work. Might have to get a file and do some fine tuning. I'll try to get some pics od where to hit and email them to you.



-DP

 

[flightmedic]

Heat it up man! If that is a possibility, it will take alot of work out of the job. For that matter, I have found that living in the mid-west (read: salted roads) makes owning a torch mandatory. Of course along with a BFH.

 

[JApplegate]

can't heat the bolt up... got rubber under it..... if i heat it up i'll melt the rubber to the bolt and cause more of a head ache... ...

 

[cerberusiam]

I am not quite sure what you are pulling apart but the spindle is held to the lower a-frame with the lower ball joint. There is a big nut on the top that needs to come off then a pickle fork between the spindle and the a-frame will pop the ball joint loose. If you are replacing the ball joint the boot will be replaced also so heat it if it needs it. If you are trying to drop the a-frame where it bolts to the frame the bolts go thru a bushing with a metal liner. If they are stuck you will have to cut the bolts unless you can get them loose with the O2 wrench. Doesn't matter about the rubber bushings as you will need to replace them anyway. Hope this helps.