MBRP Exhaust install tips?

[Newf Limo]

Hi folks,

I have ordered my MBRP SS Exhaust from Geno's. Great customer service by the way. It turns out the ANSA is Back Ordered for an undetermined amount of time, and my truck is down, so I ordered what was available, with out research. Gotta' trust someone, right?



Anyhow, I have already started the PB Blaster routine with the Exhaust bolts at the turbo down pipe.



Does a new exhaust come with new bolts? These are in really sad shape. If not, do you know the bolt Grade, length and size?



What is the easiest way to attack these bolts with a wrench? Extra extensions from below with a ratchet, or some special contortional maneuver from above. Can't be worse than that long day of removing and replacing the one little retainer screw on the Crank position sensor. That is as bad as it gets.



Any other tips would be great. The old tailpipe fell off already, and then the muffler fell off, so no sawzall is needed. I think I may have squeezed every mile out of that BD Exhaust system!:-laf

 

[Newf Limo]

Looks like it uses a 15mm socket. I bought a 24"extension to go along with the 10 and 4 inch extensions I have in my box. That way I can go at it from underneath.



The MBRP kit comes with new bolts, M10 x 60mm grade 8. Just incase anyone's system doesn't.



In the box, it looks like a great kit, with very good instructions, pictures (me like pikchurs!) and warranty card for the lifetime warranty. It is made by our brothers across the North border, so I'm guessing it has to be a pretty darn good product. I will let you all know how the install goes, and what I think of the fit and finish when I get a chance to install it. That will be soon, as my better half wants my truck fixed so she can have her truck back. You could say I am appropriately motivated to complete the tasks at hand and in a timely fashion. :-laf



Dennis

 

[wlowe]

Other than using a sawzall for removal the only recommendation I can think of is to use band clamps, makes it very easy to remove if need be. Oh yea, I attacked the downpipe bolts from below with a long extension and socket. Good luck.

 

[Newf Limo]

I used a 24" + a 10" extension, and a 13 mm socket to go at the two flange bolts from underneath. I had used PB Blaster for days before starting work. It didn't do anything. I had my wife tap on the flange where the bolts came through with a tack hammer while I crancked on an old rachet with a short cheater pipe. That worked really well.



Turns out, the sawzall was needed after all. There wasn't much left of the bend in the down pipe so it went through it like butter.



The MBRP Install is easy so far. I have to replace the shocks on the truck, and the tailpipe goes right next to the pass. side rear shock mount. Better to do that now, than after the tail pipe is installed. My neighbor has a body shop and is willing to do the shocks (Bilsteins) for cheap. I think I will have to give him a good beer bonus.



I would like to have used band clamps, but the hangers are welded to the U-bolt clamps, so that is what I will use. Pretty smart though, as the welded attachment of hangers directly to the exhaust pipe, would be a weak point. All the joints are at the point of a hanger and there is a clamp with a welded hanger to match.



Slick looking system.

 

[GAmes]

How is the install going? It looks like my stock pipe has finally rusted through at the bend over the axle so I am shopping. Are the hangers soft enough metal to bend?

 

[CurtLee]

If PB blaster doesn't work on the flanges try adding a little heat from a torch of some kind. You may want to consider adding a tack weld at the joints to hold it in place. I imagine a simgle exit system is easy to install compared to a dual system. It only took me a couple hours to install mine but it was only cat bak. I did play with the Y-pipe for a couple days to get it right.



In addition to genos you could check out Source Automotive. I haven't worked with them but I hear they have excellent customer service.

 

[Newf Limo]

Installation was a breeze! First, install the down pipe, but don't tighten the flange bolts yet. The next section just slides right on and the hanger goes right into the holder off the transmission. Each section slips right on and the hangers are perfectly located, no bending or adjusting needed. My secret??? I took the rubber hangers off irst and put them on the exhaust system. I sprayed the holes on the rubber hangers with Olive Oil cooking spray just before putting the pipe up and slipping the rubber hangers back onto the the trucks exhaust holders. Went on slicker than... um... snot! Once the whole system is in and lined up just right, tighten everything starting at the tip and finish at the tail. They provide you with a very nicely made 5" tip as well.



I (so far) could not be happier with this system, the installation, the fit and finish and the mellow sound (and no resonant droning). I'd do it a gain in a heartbeat.





Dennis

 

[GAmes]

Thanks, ordered mine today.

 

[04blackcherry]

My AFE system had a U-bolt/hanger set-up also for right behind the muffler. I purchased an extra band clamp at NAPA to use on one of the up front joints. I pushed the u-bolt/hanger forward of the muffler joint and just snugged it down. Then I put the extra band clamp on the joint right behind the u-bolt clamp. It already paid off. I had to take the tailpipe off because the welded on hanger broke. After I received the warranted tail pipe, it went right on.

 

[GAmes]

Is there any need to coat the joints with a sealer?

 

[JJPage]

My secret??? I took the rubber hangers off irst and put them on the exhaust system.



That's a good tip right there, rather than trying to manipulate the "J" type hangers provided with the kit through the rubber mounts while still on the truck.