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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission MBRP Exhaust rear hanger for '97 question!!!

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I am installing a MBRP exhaust system from DPP. I have a '97 truck. I was told I had to use a special rear hanger for the rear pipe. I bought the hanger, but can not figure out how to install it!



Do I need to drill the frame to install the special hanger? It has two rubber gromets on it and two screw holes in the steel.



NO ONE AT DPP SAID I HAD TO DO ANY DRILLING! What a POS if I have to drill my frame.



Someone let me know what they did with their rear hanger on their MBRP exhaust system ... PLEASE!!!
 
McLaughlin said:
I didn't install my MRBP exhaust but I've attached pictures of the rear hangers of how it is installed.

Thanks for the pictures. I now see I have to drill the frame. DPP DID NOT SAY ANYTHING ABOUT DRILLING ... I AM PO'ed big time. You can't even measure for the holes accurately.



Damn!!!!



Thanks again.
 
FATCAT said:
Thanks for the pictures. I now see I have to drill the frame. DPP DID NOT SAY ANYTHING ABOUT DRILLING ... I AM PO'ed big time. You can't even measure for the holes accurately.



Damn!!!!



Thanks again.





Like I said, I didn't install mine so there may be a different way of doing the install without drilling the frame. I suspect it all depends on how much effort you want to go to to install the hangers. You could always weld the bracket on if you would rather not drill the frame.
 
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McLaughlin said:
Like I said, I didn't install mine so there may be a different way of doing the install without drilling the frame. I suspect it all depends on how much effort you want to go to to install the hangers. You could always weld the bracket on if you would rather not drill the frame.



Nope, had to drill the frame DARNIT. I have it all together (4 1/2 hours). What a nightmare comparied to the old Jardine exhust that took about 50 minites some 4+ years ago.

Almost every end of pipe of the system, I had to bank with a hammer to get it to fit into the flanged ends ... that sucked big time!!!



Well, time to start it up and see if it holds together.
 
bummer man, a buddy of mine didnt have to do anything like that with his. Maybe they changed the brackets since then. You will like it now that its on though.
 
Cooker said:
Although drilling the frame does suck the newer hanger looks much better than the older style POS hanger.
I installed mine over a year ago and had to drill the frame also. It was a pita but it looks better than the old rear hanger. I love the sound of this exhaust. I'd do it again if I had to. The new hanger is required on pre 98. 5 trucks since Dodge changed it then. After 98. 5 it all bolts on to the existing hangers.



Since the new hanger goes in a different location than the old hanger, the old one is not used. The new hanger is farther towards the front of the vehicle ahead of the spare tire on the frame rail. I removed the spare to drill it. There are no instructions from MBRP about this. I'll try to post pics

tomorrow of mine.



Glad you got it all done. How do you like it? Add a BHAF or AFE Stage I and you'll hear the turbo whine... sounds cool!
 
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Hey FATCAT,

Thanks for the heads up about this exhaust. I have a 96 and am considering buying one of these systems. Heard stories that it takes longer to get the old system removed and new goes in like a breeze. 4 1/2 hours for the whole job (remove old/install new) or just to install new? It figures that DODGE rectifies this hanger issue in the later years and the owners don't have to deal with this upon install. It also figures, on a different note, that on my 96 club cab, there are no rear doors to access the back seat. They always seem to make it better after you already own one.

BUT, ON A LIGHTER NOTE, you gotta love our 12 valvers! Can't kill 'em! :-laf

It's nice to scroll down the list of "new posts" and see very few 12 valve posts/problems. See too many 24 valve posts. I love this engine!! And truck!!Keep that 97 FATCAT! :D
 
Rear bracket

The MBRP fit my early '98 with no drilling or other mod to the OEM hanger system so the change must have occured earlier than mid-year. I installed a '06 4 inch cat with it so the unit should now satisfy any EPA smog police when CA starts testing our trucks. I'm real happy with it now.



Dan Avilla
 
Exhaust Hanger pics

My 97 rear MBRP exhaust hanger that I drilled 2 bolts to mount to the frame. The first pic is from on top of frame behind the spare tire looking toward rear of truck. The front bolt can be seen. The nuts are captive on the hanger and the bolt starts from below.



The 2nd pic is from under the bracket. Between the 2 bolts is something round on the frame that the bolts are on either side of.



Hope this helps the next guy who has to do this.
 
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One more pic

One more of the added rear hanger of the MBRP exhaust. This is from the rear of truck. You can see where the exhaust runs behind the right rear mudflap on my dually.
 
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Dave M said:
The new hanger is required on pre 98. 5 trucks since Dodge changed it then. After 98. 5 it all bolts on to the existing hangers.
I think it's pre '98 not '98. 5 since '98 12-valves have the updated hanger too.
 
MHalloran said:
Hey FATCAT,

Thanks for the heads up about this exhaust. I have a 96 and am considering buying one of these systems. Heard stories that it takes longer to get the old system removed and new goes in like a breeze. 4 1/2 hours for the whole job (remove old/install new) or just to install new? It figures that DODGE rectifies this hanger issue in the later years and the owners don't have to deal with this upon install. It also figures, on a different note, that on my 96 club cab, there are no rear doors to access the back seat. They always seem to make it better after you already own one.

BUT, ON A LIGHTER NOTE, you gotta love our 12 valvers! Can't kill 'em! :-laf

It's nice to scroll down the list of "new posts" and see very few 12 valve posts/problems. See too many 24 valve posts. I love this engine!! And truck!!Keep that 97 FATCAT! :D



It was 4 and 1/2 hours form start to finish. Now I have the PDR HX40 turbo so the down pipe they give you won't work. I was luck enough to have the original down pipe for my HX40 down in the basement (I never used it cause Blue Chip Diesel had a spare old one and they gave it to me when installing the HX40 some time ago). So ... this ment the system from MBRP would not be a total fit together. I had to buy a 2 foot section of 4" pipe and ending up cutting off about a foot to fill the gap.

Beside having to drill my frame (which skunk with all the metal filings falling all over the place and getting into my hands as splinters), ALL the MBRP pipe ends that fit into the flanged pipe ends had to be hand hammered to fit. The ends were all bent and nicked and dented which took time to repair and I had to hang and then remove the rear, muffler, and long pipe twice to get all the ends to fit.

The new exhaust sounds just like my old exhaust (loud drown at 2200 - 2400 rpm), so no change there. Its just my old exhaust was worn out and had holes in it (4 years old ... NH salt realy eats away at things).

I remember my old Jardine exhaust system took ony 50 minutes (removal and installation) in total.

If you are doing the MBRP exhaust and have a 1998 or older, get your dill out and a piece of cardboard to make a template to drill.
 
My 99 has a similiar hanger stock, so no drilling.

It too me 2x longer to get the old system out compared to putting the new MBRP system in. It slide together fine, was hanging and loose in 15 minutes.

The rest of the time was just seeing how it would sit when tightened up.

I thought it was a breeze.

The situation of banging the ends together sounds like a b#tch. I can understand you being sour, but I think you had an exception.
 
FATCAT,

Thanks for reply. Sounds like they sold you a kit that got dropped & kicked around the warehouse floor, since it was bent & nicked up. I'd also be very PO'ed if mine showed up like that. I guess BK got a good one.

Xtreme Diesel in Jersey here sells these so I will be able to go right there to buy it & inspect it before I take it away. The template idea sounds good.

Thanks again. Mike
 
Vaughn MacKenzie said:
I think it's pre '98 not '98. 5 since '98 12-valves have the updated hanger too.
You could be right on that. But according to www.dieselperformancepart.com they sell the hanger and I quote " Required hanger assembly for all 1994-1998. 5 non-24 valve Dodge Cummins trucks".



Here is the link:

http://www.dieselperformanceparts.c...r=stainless_d9402&f_sortorder=abc&f_match=100



But according to the MBRP info posted on that site here's what the installation instructions say:



"(Note: 94-97 12 valve trucks may

require rear hanger fabrication, a 94-97 hanger adaptor is available at your local dealer or MBRP

Inc. )"




Well... there ya have it. They are a little conflicting on this hanger requirement.



Dave
 
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Dave M said:
But according to the MBRP info posted on that site here's what the installation instructions say:



"(Note: 94-97 12 valve trucks may

require rear hanger fabrication, a 94-97 hanger adaptor is available at your local dealer or MBRP

Inc. )"




Well... there ya have it. They are a little conflicting on this hanger requirement.



Dave



No where on the site does it say that drilling is required, and the picture is misleading since the you receive the special hanger, the two bolts are screwed into the welded nuts. They should have "drilling required on 94-98. 5 trucks" on their website.



Oh well ... . live and learn.
 
Mark Craig said:
FATCAT,

...

The 12 valve hanger is actually a Dodge DC part that is required to mount the tail pipe, the stock 12 valve tail has that ugly hanger at the very end that is prone to rust out as it catches all the mud and muck the tires throw up, so we do this to improve the look and life of the systems. Sorry no one told you about drilling, some 12 valve frames have the holes some don't and we never know which do or don't! It's really easy and most folks can just place the hanger in the frame and get close enough by sight to drill, a template is a great idea but lots of effort. The up side is you have it installed and all is finished etc.



Mark, you guys should just put a little blurb in the instructions like "some drilling may be required". The template I created was a piece of cardboard I cut from your shipping box (the length of the hanger base and about as wide).

I cut a little strip off the long way to account for the frame edge (about 1/8"), then just placed the hanger on the template and made pencil marks for the holes. This should be something simple to make and could be printed on the bottom of the instructions for the consumer to cut out with scissors, place on the underside of the frame rail, and wack a center punch on the marks where to drill the holes ... bingo your done. (When drilling, watch out for the searing hot pieces of meatal spirals when they go down your shirt sleeve ... it makes for good laughs for other people watching you flip out).



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