Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Mechanical fuel pressure gauge with isolator

[Gordon Maney]

Not too long ago I installed a mechanical fuel pressure gauge with isolator. I filled the plastic line with antifreeze, as suggested by others here. It worked fine.

Time passed. Suddenly the gauge did not work. I determine by using my test gauge at the end of the rubber line coming from the injection pump that I have great pressure. So, I assume it is from the isolator on, and I suppose confined to the plastic line.

I ponder whether antifreeze leaked out, leaving mostly air, which then perhaps did not compress enough. I don't see any sign of leakage, and the air gaps in the fluid stream in the hose appear to me as they did when it worked.

Thoughts on this? I admit to disappointment and wonder if I should just get an electric gauge. I am still not keen on running plastic all the way with no isolator. Fire safety and all that.

I am guessing there is no problem that could develop with the isolator, since it worked fine for a while.

 

[SRadke]

Did you push the isolator in before filling with antifreeze? Gently push it from the cab side with a round pencil eraser then fill with antifreeze and hook up the cab line.

 

[Gordon Maney]

Did you push the isolator in before filling with antifreeze? Gently push it from the cab side with a round pencil eraser then fill with antifreeze and hook up the cab line.

Yes, I did that. There was an instruction sheet that came with it, directing me to do so.

 

[DIESELWRKS]

had a sim problem in past on my first isolator. second round per Rip at sourceautomotiv. biz was to put a needle valve prior to the isolator. this is the dipricol brand. looked like the diaphram blew on the first one. Rip covered it on warranty. I also used liquid silicone and not antifreeze per the shop. almost 2 years now and no problems. pressure I was showing before was around 24psi with my fass 150 pump only. now with the needle valve dampended it down to 19 at idle. plus I did get different bolts for the isolator to tighten it I didn't like the flat head 2 screws that it came with. and I just filled up the isolator full and then closed it up. just my 2 cents.

 

[Gordon Maney]

had a sim problem in past on my first isolator. second round per Rip at sourceautomotiv. biz was to put a needle valve prior to the isolator. this is the dipricol brand. looked like the diaphram blew on the first one. Rip covered it on warranty.

I also used liquid silicone and not antifreeze per the shop. almost 2 years now and no problems. pressure I was showing before was around 24psi with my fass 150 pump only. now with the needle valve dampended it down to 19 at idle. plus I did get different bolts for the isolator to tighten it I didn't like the flat head 2 screws that it came with. and I just filled up the isolator full and then closed it up. just my 2 cents.

By liquid silicone, you mean the silicone from a spray can of silicone?

 

[DIESELWRKS]

By liquid silicone, you mean the silicone from a spray can of silicone?

yes that is what I meant.

 

[Midnite]

I ditched my mechanical gauge and went with an electrical and am much happier.

 

[CKelley1]

just throw the isolator in the trash. you do not need it . it is a worthless piece of junk. get a snubber from genosgarage.com

 

[OL RATLR]

just throw the isolator in the trash. you do not need it . it is a worthless piece of junk. get a snubber from genosgarage.com

I agree with Kelly throw it away.

I have ran mine 7 years with snubber and no problems. Oo.

 

[Gordon Maney]

I am running the mechanical gauge now with no snubber and it works fine. No needle pulsation; a steady reading. I don't see the point of the snubber.

 

[DIESELWRKS]

just read in the fine print most manuf, of the gauges have a clause that if the has direct contact from the fuel will void warranty. this was told and shown to me by dipricol, dont know about others. but I haven't had probs with my current set up.