Melted Wire

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I changed the small 90 degree fuel return line thats under the fuel filter on left side of motor (I think its a fuel pump that its connected to at least it looks like one)and went to work after work truck still doesnt want to start. pop the hood and notice smoke coming from fuel pump there is a wiring harness that goes into it and the wires are melted/smoldering. Is it a fuel pump, what are wires for, anyone else w/problem. truck is a 1996 Manufactured late feb of 96 2500 W/ 4wd

 

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I'm totally guessing, but your hard starts may be related to loss of prime or air in your replaced line. Crack the fitting open on the fuel and and use the manual primer to purge air (located on primary pump under fuel filter). As for melted wires, I can not help you with that part.

[This message has been edited by A-bomb (edited 09-12-2000). ]

 

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The line you replaced goes from the heater/strainer assembly to the lift pump. The wire you melted gous to the fuel heater/strainer assembly. It plugs into the main harness and powers the heater with a thermostat in series. The thermostat is mounted to the top of the heater. The heater/strainer is held in place by the lift pump (sandwiched underneath).
Now the bad news: The little harness with the thermoastat and 2 connectors is not available as a seperate part. (I had to replace mine. ) You must purchase the heater/strainer assembly $180 wholesale. You can try to source it seperately, I will post the Fleetguard part # that was on the harness of my new assembly tomorrow. I checked with Fleetguard when I recieved mine (last winter) and the harness # wasn't in thier system. Another source to check is to see if it comes with a new heater. (the local Cummins dealer I buy from said no but I never saw for myself) Good Luck.
Now the question: what caused it? After I replaced the strainer/heater, I went back a couple days later and replaced the same hose you did. Didn't loose prime. But when I went to start the truck, I cranked it right away to prevent any possible overheating of the heating element and thermostat. I have no idea what caused mine to fail in the first place except possibly a shorted heating element.
When you replace the strainer/heater, you need 2 gaskets and I would also replace the rubber seal on the line into it. I put a dab of grease on each side of the heater/strainer to hold them to it and then started the fuel line into it to support it. then you can put the lift pump into the area and start the line into it. At this piont both parts will be hanging by the steel lines. Now you can try to start the bolts into the motor to hold them down. Turn them in at the same rate or you risk damaging the pump pushrod.
Now to add insult to injury: The hose you need to change is the return line located between the injector pump and the tank. It's fun to change to.
I recommend buying a Factory Service Manual. Anything else (and this may upset a few folks) is incomplete and, because of that, useless.
My opinion, Good Luck.

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'94 3500 4x4, 201,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (currently under remodification), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"

 

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The fuel heater has the ability to go on any time, key on or key off. When fuel temp gets below 40 degrees will turn on. When Fuel temp reaches 80 degrees will turn off. This keeps fuel from waxing during cold weather. Another words so your fuel is liguid when you crank on a cold morning. Check pre filter screen to make sure it is clean.
If this is where the smoke is comming from then hot wire got grounded somewhere in around Fuel heater. Looking at book, power is supplied by igniton switch, could have something to with recall,but I doubt it.
Kenny61 just ot make sure where smoke is comming from, Is it below fuel filter, above starter? If not where? Fuel return line? Fuel supply line?
If below fuel filter its the fuel heater.
Extreme1 is right about service manual get Dodges. Cummins is Ok but only covers engine.

 

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The Dodge service manual is a bargain at twice the price!!! It will more than pay for itself in avoiding BS at the service department if nothing else.

It helps when you replace the fuel hoses if you loosen the master cylinder and rotate it out of the way. It also helps to remove the fuel filter. Skinny fingers nine inches long and some on your elbows are handy too. #ad


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Joe George
Eureka, CA

'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,3. 54,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver

 

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Thanks for all the answers. and to answer a few of your questions. yes its the one directly below the fuel filter and to the left of the manual prime pump. I guess when i lost the prime the heater was able to overheat and burn out strange because it was probaly in the high 60's to low 70's so i dont know why it would have went on and it has lost its prime in the past without any trouble before. thanks to the hoodlight i was able to see exactly where the smoke was coming from and it was right at where the line enters the pump\heater\strainer the wire furthest from the motor to be exact and yes i've been blessed with long skinny arms and fingers so i can reach right in there which is probably why i cant understand why everyone wants to relocate the fuel filter I reach it with no problem using an oil filter wrench the hardest problem i have with it is unplugging the water sensor since even i cant fit both hands in there at once!

 

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also the hose that needs changing connects to the back of the injector pump?

 

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There are two hoses so while you are dirty and disgusted with the whole thing you might as well change both of them. The one on the return line from the injector pump is usually the problem. From what I understand the hoses were painted at the factory and, as a result, rotted.

 

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I located the hose. with every other line either steel or braided what where they thinking? Does dropping the starter help or should I go the Master Cylinder Route?

 

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Removing the starter helps but the master cylinder is easier. On my '95 you can just lean the master cylinder over out of the way without removing any brake lines. It's a big PITA of a job no matter how you do it.

 

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If you're going to touch the starter, play it safe and disconnect your battery cables. Removing the negative cables is better than the positives, since there is no risk of a short if your wrench touches the inner part of the fender or other metal part while removing them.
Andy

 

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Here is the # for the wire, you might try finding it. The thermostat actually attaches to the outside of the heater housing with two small screws.
Fleetguard # 384372200 (it had a + in front of it but I don't know if that is relevant)
Regarding this job, I don't have a problem doing my fuel filter either. But, if I were to do it over again, I would replace the heater and the harness/themostat and leave the housong alone. You won't have to undo the lines, scrape the gasket off the block and try to line it all up on reassembly (the hardest part).
Joe G. is right, you have to remove the fuel filter, get a new one (the 10 micron, don't have the number handy it's in issue 25). You can do the whole job from the top, the FSM says to do it from the bottom. I started from the bottom and finished from the top as it was easier.
Plan on a few hours (have cold beer and frozen pizza on hand before you start), but the second time you could do it a lot quicker.
As for replaceing the hose, it will be easier to do once you get aclimated to reaching for the heater and pump.
Good Luck and enjoy.

 

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I saw the screws but wasn't sure if that meant anything. So this means if I take the 2 screws out I'll be able to change the harness and heater element and does the manual show this? (i just ordered one)

 

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Kenny61 It looks like screws are for fuel temp sensor.
Shop manual instructions.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. " cables to starter.
3. Rempve starter
4. Disconnect connector at front of heater.
5. Unscrew from bottom, remove pre-filter
6. Remove fuel heater assembly from housing.
Have drain pan underneath when unscrewing!
Good luck!

[This message has been edited by Missouri Mule (edited 09-14-2000). ]

 

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My fuel return line went out about 18 mnths ago and I had the work done at the dealer. They removed the left front wheel and the fender/wheel well liner. This gave a good opening to get to the lines, but it still was quite a job. Liner is held in with platic rivets.
Chas

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I may not be much, but I'm all I think about.

95 that is lightly used. Dressed out nicely with 19. 5 wheels from Rickson Truck.

[This message has been edited by Charlie Parrish (edited 09-15-2000). ]