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Metal Roof?

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The Great Clan Campbell

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Hi,

Need to replace my decaying roof. Looking for advise-- price, longevity, ease of installation.



Any out there have experience with metal roofs?



Regards,

Lowell
 
I've installed several over the years and specify them on drawings all the time. On metal roofs, installing exactly as the manuf. recommends is key. If you are putting on snow stops, I'd recommend going with more than what is specified. If you go with too few, they will rip off under load and ruin your roof. As far as style, I usually recommend a Pro-Panel II which is pretty affordable compared to shingles. Standing seam is likely the most expensive metal roof, but the looks are better and has proven to be a lifetime roof. When people ask me weather to go with metal or shingles, I usually tell them that 50 year shingles will hold up just as well, look better (IMO) and cost much less. Now, in high wind areas, metal will hold up better. So what I'm saying, is it depends on the application.

On a recent project, the owner wanted "Decra" stone coated metal shingles. The install was much like a asphalt shingle and looked like them as well, but the base was steel. 50 year waranty. I recollect the cost being around 300-500 per square installed.
 
I agree with what TPCD said if you have a relativly flat pitch roof (less than 4:12) If you have a steeper roof and the design does not promote ice dams then Bituthene with good quality asphalt shingles might be a better option in terms of price. Also- another thing to consider- Sadalia is prone to hail at times. Thinner gauge roofs could get dinged up depending on how its installed i. e. directly on plywood underlayment vs. gaps between purlins running perpendicular to the seams. Re- iterating what TCPD said: install per manufacturer's recomendation and you might also consider snow clips in addition to the snow fences he recomended.

(note to TPCD- I am not familiar with Pro Panel II, I'll have to look it up in Sweet's) -frank.
 
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standing seam

If you use metal, make sure that there is some kind of barrier between the metal and the attic space!



Eight years ago we rebuilt/restored our 1820's log home following a fire. It had standing seam metal installed over the old wooden shingles. The metal was rusted through and the shingles were smokey, so we ripped off everything back to the rafters, which were still solid. The rafters were odd-spaced, so we used oak lath instead of trying to sheet with plywood. The roofers came and installed the roof on the lath. Everything looked great.



A week after we moved back into the house(mid-December), I went to the attic for something, and WHOA!! What was this?? It looked like it had rained up there!! The lath, rafters, and attic floor were all soaked!! Condensation had formed on the metal because of the temperature difference. Snow on the roof REALLY made it "rain" inside!



What we had overlooked was the insulating effect of the old wood shingles. If the original metal did sweat, the moisture was shed by the old shingles underneath. In retrospect, we should have sheeted over the lath. It would have been much easier than the insulation and forced ventilation system we used to fix the problem.



We do love the metal roof. There's nothing quite like the sound of rain on the roof as you're drifting off to sleep!!



FWIW,



Lynn
 
I just went to a metal roof on our 8 year old house; just got tired of replacing comp. shingles. We have lots of high wind and two or three times each winter a couple to a half dozen would blow off. I now hope to be free of that problem. We are very near the ocean at Cape Blanco, the furtherest west point of land in the lower 48 and exposed to the winter storms that come in off the Pacific. Our little town of Port Orford is the most westerly incorporated town in the lower 48. While we live out side the town, our property line is the city (Pop. 1000) limit.



Vaughn
 
Thanks for the advise

I think I will go down to a show room that sells both products and check them out. It seems metal and asphalt have problems and advantages.



I don't want shingles to be blowing off all the time, as we do get winds here, if I went with asphalt. Anyone used dimentional shingles that are about 3 time more the weight of regular shingles?



Thanks,

Lowell
 
My brother in-law is a contractor and builds in the mountains above Boulder, CO. He puts on dimensional shingles on all of his homes and hasn't had a problem yet. I used to live up there at 9000' and the winds were very strong. A neighbor had a wind gauge that pegged at 135 mph and would see gusts in that neighborhood at least once or twice in the winter. Dimensional shingles install like a 3 tab (very easy) and don't look like they could handle a slight breeze but hold up very well. If you go with shingles, just buy a heavier shingle.
 
TDC

Originally posted by TPCDrafting

My brother in-law is a contractor and builds in the mountains above Boulder, CO. He puts on dimensional shingles on all of his homes and hasn't had a problem yet. I used to live up there at 9000' and the winds were very strong. A neighbor had a wind gauge that pegged at 135 mph and would see gusts in that neighborhood at least once or twice in the winter. Dimensional shingles install like a 3 tab (very easy) and don't look like they could handle a slight breeze but hold up very well. If you go with shingles, just buy a heavier shingle.



Good information - Many Thanks,



Lowell
 
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