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Mid-Tenn Chapter Roundtable

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Any Ram guys in SE Florida?

Good Dodge Mechanic in N. Alabama?

Wade,

It's pretty embarrasing when I take you for a ride to show off the power of my truck and BOOM!!!!!! I'm just like you and glad a Dodge had to pull us to the shop. If it had been a Ford we would have had to send pictures to Red.

I found out what was up with my transmission, my input shaft and my hub had all of the gears sheared off as slick as a whistle. I guess that billet input shaft and hub and the billet output shaft aren't coming a bit too soon. My 2nd gear band was also completely warn out. I have an ATS update kit coming. These are things I should have done in the beginning when I installed my ATS TC and Valve body.



Sorry I haven't been in touch with anyone. I've been working too much and there haven't been any pulls. Looks like Red and Nick are going to be tough to compete with this next year. I'll try to do my part to compete. I may have some new things for my improperly valved Dodge, Who knows? We'll just have to see!

Please let me know what I can do for the TDR chapter and let me know how to join.



Best Regards,



Meacham Evins



P. S. I still didn't buy that Filter!!!!!:mad:
 
joining chapter

Just say you want to be on the roster, and show up to a meeting or event or two--and that's membership! Voting requires a current TDR subscription--not that we vote on much.



So you're in, I should have a roster ready by Jan 10 meeting.



And I'm glad it wasn't hooked to a sled--;)
 
Hey fellas, haven't talked to anybody on here for a while. Well I was hoping that I would be able to attend the next meeting but if it's set for January 10, count me out on that one too. LOL, I can't ever catch these things right.



Oh yeah, Wade, I'm gonna have some gauges coming in a month or two, whadda ya think about setting up another one of those tech meetings? I'm sure I'll need some help on those. Got all my stuff for the BHAF, gonna put in on Saturday morning and see how it compares to the K&N.



-HH
 
It'll sound better if the K/N was in the box.



You got a place down there where we can get in out of the weather?



I just spent all day outside in the grass doing the fuel sender thing.

ROYAL PIA:mad: . But it's done.
 
So the stock box K&N will scream louder than the BHAF? Strange...



Anyway, I hope to have small garage fixed up in a couple of months too. I've still gotta do some measurements to make sure my truck will fit and if I'll have enough room to move around. It may be too much trouble, the door on there now is not very wide and it needs replaced anyway. We'll see how it goes.



But if I don't have the garage set up, I used to work on a couple of late models for some guys and they have a monster shop - no problems there. We'll just have to move all the Petes around to get the Goat in. I'll go anywhere I need to though, no need in you coming all the way down here. Like I said it'll be a month or two so no hurry.



Thanks,



-HH
 
I'll have my shop done before long too. More than welcome. i am all for another techie meet as long as it doesn't have Candy Apples!!



Wade, You did not put and electrical fuel gauge in your truck? What a sissy! I used mechanical and boost tubing w/ a shutoff. $5. I figured a cheapy like you would have thought of that. If it'll hold 80 psi of hot oil, it'll hold 15 psi of cold diesel.
 
Hey thanks for the offer Gap, might take you up on it depending on what Wade wants to do. I just hate for everybody to have to drive all that way to help me put in some gauges.



I gotta come to Dickson Saturday. May have a probable TDR member with me. He's got a 2001 3/4 ton, Mickey's on it, straight piped and stuff, pretty good looking truck. I know he's interested in joining the chapter but he's not real computer-oriented know what I mean?
 
Now Hans, you read that wrong. It'll sound better than the K/N, IF the K/N was the type that goes in the stock air box. Everything is louder than that silly box. You'll like the BHAF!



The 'lective unit was second-hand and cheap. Don't like the lighting of it. Will use until it craps out. Ain't askeerd of no diesel. Wore about half a gallon of it today. :rolleyes:



Don't need no 'puter to come to meetings/events or look at a magazine. But they are handy for quick research with a greasy mouse and staying up all night trying to figger something out. ;)



I've GOT to go take a tower down next decent weekend. I'll get my ham buds to help me with that.



PROJECT PULLER got some fundage this evening. OH BOY more parts to install. Not going all out-want to work with the 35 for a while. Looks like mild injectors/GSK/timing/16cm housing right now. Maybe DV's if that ain't hot enough.



freakin' fuel sender:mad: gawd am I glad that's done.



OH and Pop is ALL OVER the STACKS :D :cool:
 
Originally posted by WadePatton

PROJECT PULLER got some fundage this evening. OH BOY more parts to install. Not going all out-want to work with the 35 for a while. Looks like mild injectors/GSK/timing/16cm housing right now. Maybe DV's if that ain't hot enough.



OH and Pop is ALL OVER the STACKS :D :cool:



Hey Wade good deal. Try TST for the GSK if going 3K (not sure youre preference 3K or 4K) because I think its $25 cheaper on TST's site than Piers. :confused: and every little bit helps right?Oo.



If you want I can give you directions to the place I buy all my stacks at and they'll be happy to let you look over there supply.



The HX40 has definately been put on the back burner! I can't wait to get my clutch in a few months!! Man I miss my #10 plate more and more by the day!:{ :{ :{ :{
 
Hello?

Just sticking my head up out of the water here... . Seems like it's been a while since I posted anything.



On the FP gauge issue... I've decided to go with the AutoMeter's, unfortunately that means I'm going to have an electrical FP gauge... at a cost of $188 bucks!!! OUCH!:mad: In the phantom line, that also means that I'll have the electrical pyro... . :( ... . I know Wade. . I KNOW!!



I know this sounds sissified, but I pay a lot of attention to details, and I think the auto meter phantoms look the best... . Now, I know looks aren't everything, but in general, AM's are VERY good gauges. Whether they're electrical or not. If I'm gonna do it, I'm gonna do it right, and it's GONNA look nice. Not that there's anything wrong with doing it any other way with any other gauge, but this thing only has 18K miles, and I don't want to half-ass anything until at least 300K. ;)



Which brings me to this question... . Anybody ever make anything out of fiberglass? I'm thinking I'd rather not saw my grab handle off, and can prob fab a gauge pod that attaches to my pillar, but does not requre removal of the grab handle... . Materials would prob be chopped mat fiberlass sanded smooth and painted... MAYBE carbon fiber. It looks cool, but not sure about integration with the wood on the dash... . of course could use the existing wood as a mold, and make new carbon fiber panels... . hmmmmmmmmmm... .



Also, thinking about registering a domain name for us... like www.midtenntdr.org... the name would be like $10/year. This would basically just give us a web presence somewhere to post pics, events, mission statement (which we don't have yet). Nothing special. Just some other way to make us identifiable. I know some of the other chapters have them, and it seems like it may be a good idea. We can discuss vote at the meeting in january. For reference, check out my bro-in-laws site: www.dixiecrawlers.com



sorry for the long post...

see y'all later.

/andy
 
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For the 12-valvsters among us, I ordered the timing kit from Snap-On today. The socket will be good for changing DV's too. Now who's got a heated shop we can play with it in? (Danger! Danger!--alarm sounds):D
 
Well, I did it today!! DPP STAINLESS EXHAUST!! Mark and his employee Corey are real nice guys. They offered there shop for meetings and such. Corey may be getting a 01 H. O. dually this weekend. Got to go. I can't wait to get this thing on and test it out! Wade call Mark and see if he will let you do some work in the DPP shop. Wade when are we going to do some practice pulling?
 
Is that the shop in Nastyville? What's the address? I'll have to go down and check 'em out. That'd be a great place for tech meetings. Speaking of which, I'm going to check out a real local place here in a minute.



I made three phone calls today TST, Geno's, and Rod. Didn't get anything from Rod, but I got one of everything from TST! There went 7 c-notes!:D :cool: :rolleyes:



Waiting on Red to show up with 10k to put in the sled. :eek:
 
Originally posted by WadePatton

Is that the shop in Nastyville? What's the address? I'll have to go down and check 'em out. That'd be a great place for tech meetings. Speaking of which, I'm going to check out a real local place here in a minute.



I made three phone calls today TST, Geno's, and Rod. Didn't get anything from Rod, but I got one of everything from TST! There went 7 c-notes!:D :cool: :rolleyes:



Waiting on Red to show up with 10k to put in the sled. :eek:



You've already got a plate..... GSK is only $125..... what in the hell did you spend the other $575 on?:--)
 
Another guage question...

Hey someone answer a question for me - I'm gonna mount my gauges on the pillar and the only pods I've seen need a screw to attach. Is there not anyone that makes a pod that totally replaces the factory a-pillar cover piece? Looks like somebody would, and they probably do, I just haven't run across one. Any recommendations?



The screw is a really big deal to me, I can't stand to have stuff like that showing - once I ordered an entire polished stainless steel dash for my old Goat and then I sent it back when I found out the screws would show. I figured somebody made one that would snap in just like the old one. I gotta get all these final questions out there about the gauges, it won't be long before I place an order...



Which brings me to my next question - where should I order from? I'm leaning toward Diesel Power Products right now, it seems that they have the best prices. I'd love to keep it under $400 but it looks like I might bust that. I've already decided on the new di-procol gauges, and please don't try to talk me out of them, it took me forever to make a decision on the ones that I wanted. I like the way they look - gonna go with the white ones with the chrome trim even though I've got a 2nd gen. I've got major plans for the interior of my truck and they'll fit right in, eventually. And if the di-procols suck, just let me find out and I won't blame y'all. LOL.



And one more - is that $70 fuel pressure isolater or whatever necessary? I didn't know what else I needed besides the actual gauges. If I've already confused anyone, here's a link to the site.



Sorry for the long post. Thanks for the help.
 
accounting

HH--who to order from. I get my pods from TST. I try to get gauges from Wildcat (Rod), but he's out of stock on some of them right now. I just ordered Isspro gauges from Geno's. Forgot ALL about DPP! Maybe I'll run down there this morning.



OH, and Gap was telling me how he cut the clip off the OEM pillar and epoxied it to the replacement job, eliminating the doubled-up deal. That's all the screws do is hold the instrument pod to the OEM piece, which clips on. When I re-do mine I'll use small rivits.



Mark--Fuel pressure test adapter 25, AFC spring 35, 16cm housing 150, pod 65?, tools 44, gauges 228, filters 30--something like that. And also, had $70 AT flush, bought 3 gallons of coolant, 3 gallons of distilled water, 1 bottle of flush. Then 70 bucks for the fuel sender, 20 for mud flaps... ADDS UP don't it!



Maybe a belt and thermostat next, then gear oil for the diffs... :rolleyes:
 
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FP Gauge Isolator

HH,



Regarding the Isolator for the Fuel Pressure Gauge... . My understanding is that it's only purpose is to keep from runing a line into the cab that contains diesel fuel. It has a diaphragm that the fuel runs up to, and the other side connects a line filled with anti-freeze which connects to the gauge. Gap just ran boost line into the cab from a needle valve that he placed near the fuel pump. Personally, I like his idea better. If you get a leak, just turn the valve off until you have time to fix it... Downside is that in an accident, you run the risk of being pinned in the truck with fiery diesel spraying in your face... . I'm willing to take the risk. Anti-freeze makes a gosh-awful mess in a cab. You'll NEVER get it cleaned up. In addition, it is also my understanding that isolators fail at an alarming rate... .



My . 02.



As for me, I plan on running fuel in the cab
 
Hey Wade will a stock exhaust help for the sled???



The 4" DPP exhaust sounds pretty good. I have only driven it about 10 miles though. Lots of turbo whistle and a deep tone. Not that much difference in the cab though. I am waiting on a friend to drive it so I can stand on the side of the road and hear it go by. I know I have issue's. It did sound cool aiming against the back wall behind Kroger!! HEE HEE
 
Re: accounting

Originally posted by WadePatton

Mark--Fuel pressure test adapter 25, AFC spring 35, 16cm housing 150, pod 65?, tools 44, gauges 228, filters 30--something like that. And also, had $70 AT flush, bought 3 gallons of coolant, 3 gallons of distilled water, 1 bottle of flush. Then 70 bucks for the fuel sender, 20 for mud flaps... ADDS UP don't it!






I wish I had what you spent on that (roughly $700 you said) to put towards my clutch. I'm get'n to low on $$ right now and wal-mart isn't giving me many hrs during the week, and I know that I've got bills coming. :rolleyes: :{ :( Just put new treads on the truck though, but that was a must before winter gets here.



My better half came down for the weekend, her mom is meeting me 1/2 way tomorrow. I'm gonna take my linear with me and see if I can get some truck driver interested in it. :rolleyes:



Gonna put an add up at the local hunt'n store in Gallatin for the Bow. Hopefully they will both sell cause I could use the extra $$.
 
Re: accounting

Originally posted by WadePatton





Gap was telling me how he cut the clip off the OEM pillar and epoxied it to the replacement job, eliminating the doubled-up deal...




Heavy,

I sure did, take a wood chisel and hammer cut it off the plastic clip from the factory pillar. Take the whole raised plastic piece. You'll see what I mean when you take it off. Give here a few wacks on the top of the shorter of the long sides and it'll bust right loose. It'll break off at the seams pretty clean. Then I used a two part plastic resin glue. I tried other (super glue etc. ) Spent $20 bucks of glues try'n to find one to stick. You have to use the kind that has two parts and says for "Polyethyl" or "Polypropyl" and has two parts. Some of the one part stuff says for plastic, but don't work. Any who, but clip back in factory hole. Smear one part on clip part, smear other part on pod. Press and hold in place for a few minutes to let the glue start sitting. I then pulled it off and put some more glue on it as it won't adhere at all points cause it won't be touching everythere. I then put it back in to site overnight with a small bottle or something in between the pod and the steering wheel to hold it in place and to keep pressure on it. You'll be able then to just pull it off when need be. Mine fits tighter than factory cover does and has held up all through summer months or heat and has been pulled off 3 times. I am glad I did it. I was about the get furstrated with it, but I like you, hate the screw look too!



Andy, I too liked the looks of the AM's. I really wanted them. What sucks though is the night lighting. They are not back lite I do not think. They light from the front, a ring around the outside and night lighting is said to be unpleasant.



Also the AM's isolators are some of the worst, I have read. Really dissappointed me as I wanted them originally too. I loved the looks of them in the day. But read alot of complaints about failing fuel sending units. Only electrical gauge I have used is Pyro, but would get a mechanical if I could. Have not heard of any issue with electrical Pyro's though. Just my 2 cents... Sucks to as I don't think they have a fuel pressure gauge with a good working range. I think only 0-15 or 0-100. Need 0-30 really or a 15 would work, but could be pegged all the time. Case in point, is it pegged because the pressure is higher than the gauge or is the electrical sending unit malfuncitioning??
 
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