MIL lamp and trans not shifting

[BDaugherty]

MIL lamp and trans not shifting (Help!)

The truck in question is a 2007 Mega Cab Dually 3500 4x4 with the 5. 9 and 48RE. Everything is original with 190,000 miles. Stock with no mods.



Last weekend, I removed the transmission to replace the rear main seal. While the trans was on the ground, I adjusted the front band by loosening the locknut, torquing the screw to 72 inch lbs, and backing it off 1. 75 turns and tightening the set screw. I put the trans back in and removed the pan. I adjusted the rear band by loosening the locknut, torquing the adjuster screw to 72 inch lbs, and then backing the screw off 3 turns before tightening the locknut. I installed a new trans filter and put the pan back on. I filled it back with Napa ATF+4. I test drove it and it shifted up and down normally. The owner came to pick it up this morning. He drove it about 45-50 miles with no incident. Then it seemed to (his words) stick in 2nd gear. At this time the MIL lamp (looks like and engine) came on. He limped it the rest of the way to the job site. Once he got there, it did not want to move in forward, but it would back up. Once it sat for awhile and cooled, it would move again but seemed to be starting out in 2nd and would not shift. Later in the day, he tried to limp it home. After a few miles, it shifted harshley out of 2nd straight into O/D (he thinks). He managed to get it back to me. I scanned it and it shows no codes on my scanner, but the MIL lamp is still on. I re adjusted to front band. When I broke the locknut loose, I could only turn the screw in about 1. 5 turns with a small T40, but when I put the torque wrench on it it went a decent amount more. I tested it after readjusting the front band only, but there was no change. In the morning, I will drop the pan again and double check the rear band. The fluid quality/level still look good based only on pulling the dipstick.

The local dealer quoted $4200 for a reman transmission and a local rebuilder said $3000 just to build it. I need to make really sure that I'm not missing something on this. Granted, it has a lot of miles and has been loaded heavy for most of those miles. Is there any way I messed this thing up just by servicing it and adjusting the bands? It seems like if the bands were out of wack, it would have shown up right away. Was it just time for this thing to go and I was just unlucky enough to touch it right before? What else can I check before condemning it? The owner isn't blaming me and I don't have any idea how I could have hurt anything, but I still feel bad about the circumstances.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this. ----Bill.

 

[cerberusiam]

If the MIL is on there are codes. Sounds like your scanner does not have the correct module to read them though.



Before you do anything, run the pressure test from the FSM. That will tell you if there is more going on than just a simple failure.



When you changed the filter and fluid you should changed out the gov transducer and solenoid. Some of the symptoms emulate what happens when it sticks, and, it almost always does it right after a filter\fluid change.



Typical failure point is the direct clutches. That will cause the symptoms of sticking in 2nd gear and only an infrequent upshift to OD. If the direct clutch pack leaks down it will start the forward clutches slipping. Too much heat and wear is when you see no forward motion and some reverse. Cool it down and it will start to work.



With the miles and the use you detailed plus the fact it drove 40-50 miles after you worked on it, my guess would be it just wore out and now it is showing.

 

[BDaugherty]

I'm sure you're right about the scanner. I have the nicer of the parts store brand scanners, but not a Snap-On or OEM. The "turn the key 3 times" trick or my scanner do not show codes, but it seems that there should be something in order to turn on the MIL. I got the band adjustment procedure from a post in this forum, but I do not have a FSM do tell me how to check the pressures. I do have all the necessary gauges and 1/8" npt adapters. I would love to "fix" it with a new gov psi solenoid and transducer, but I hate to throw any money at it if it pretty much shot. One thing to not is that after double checking the band adjustment, it seems that I had it right, but there are no threads left showing on the adjuster screw for the front band. Could the adjuster screws being that far in be another indicator of wear?

 

[cerberusiam]

I you have no threads showing above the lock nut on the front band adjuster the band is done or band strut bent or the tangs on the band bent. All 3 are know to happen.



I have the test procedures in image form but photobucket is not answering. If you have an email address I can forward them.

 

[BDaugherty]

I will send you my email in a PM.



I talked to Jeff Garmon this afternoon and he agreed with your suggestion to change the governor pressure transducer and solenoid... actually, he nearly guaranteed that those parts would fix the problem. The local dealer had them on hand. Less than $300 later for the dealer parts and some ATF and it's back on the road with no MIL shifting normally.



I really appreciate your help. This was a real learning experience for me and it was good of you and Jeff to take time to do a little talking to someone who is a little green on light duty automatic transmissions. I re-double checked my band adjustment. The screw for the front band is just about flush while the rear still has threads showing. Now that it's back in business, maybe it will make it through the winter or even another year or two before needing a $4000 plus transmission replacement.