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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) milage problems with 12 v

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98 4x4 12v,x-cab built transmission, milage has never been over 14mpg.

injectors are ok, but stock. no fuel leaks, did the cayola test to find out if the injectors are ok, no problems noted.

Oregon Fuel Injector said that not trucks will get the average milage, but all that i have talked to have said that 14 on the freeway was far below anything they have ever heard of.

this mileage is noted without pully. it drops to 10 mpg with a trailer. all gears are stock, but not sure what the gears are.



need all help in finding a solution with fuel prices riasing.





plwease and thank you
 
How does it start on cold days or mornings when not plugged in? if it needs a little help to keep running for the first couple seconds and if you see any white smoke when cold, your timing may have slipped.
 
DMorrill. .



As Kenny has already said its well known that timing could be one of your issues to reduce fuel milage and cause a lack of power. Other things to check off the top of my head are as follows...

-Make sure the truck is freshly serviced(new air filter,fuel filter) so you have a good basline to begin with.

-Make sure you do not have a bad fuel problem. Fill the tank and add a quart of your favorite additive and a anti-algae additive(such as Bio-Con) which will add to your good baseline to begin working with.

-The fuel return line-Follow back from the P7100 and you find a section of rubber hose that is well known for cracking and allowing air to seep into the system and kill milage and power. It will also cause a white haze of smoke uopn starting and make the truck harder to start initally.

-When were the valves adjusted last?. They are supposed to be adjusted every 24,000 miles on a 12 valver. This has also been known to kill milage and power.

-Have the fuel pressure checked and see if its possible that the lift pump has getten weak. Although its not a common problem among the properly valved trucks if you can visibly see wet or leaking fuel around the boot on the primer pump on the lift pump then possibilities are it may be weak. Most owners never have a problem with them,but,I have seen some fail even before 100,000 miles.

-Check the pre-filter bowl screen(located down near the lift pump) as they have been known to get dirty and also kill fuel milage.

-Have you checked all the turbo boots and clamps for tightness and made sure none were allowing boost pressure to seep out. They should be checked at each service for tightness.

-Look around the bottom of the air horn as I have seen some which while being boosted hard push the intake gasket below it out and leak pressure. Its a relatively easy and cheap fix if it needs done.

-Another area to look is the exhaust manifold and the gaskets where it attaches to the block. The 12valves have long been known for the manifolds expanding and contracting bad and at one time were being replaced by Ma Mopar due to this. When they do this they will push the gasket out of the sides of the manifold(usually facing the front of the motor)and it will allow the motor to not build as much boost and add to your fuel mlage and power woes. The fix for that is either pull the manifold,replace the gaskets and add Mopars poorly designed fix or buy a ATS 3 piece exhaust manifold which is the best answer.



Hope those give you some points to begin with and let us know what you find wrong. It is not "normal" by any stretch of the imagination for a 12v to get the milage your quoting unless its a 4. 10 rear equipped truck. Even with the shorter gears it still should average around 17 empty. A good place for you to look is Dave Fritz's website which I'll add below for you as he has alot of good info for you as a newbie. Hope I wasn't too windy and gave you some ideas which will help... ... ... Andy



www.dodgeram.org



On edit...

BTW,I see your in the Northwest and in the Northwest Bombers area. I'll add a link for you to their website as many of them can help you get it straightened out and purring like a kitten. They are a bunch of top notch owners and area always willing to help new owners. One last Thing,Welcome to the TDR!.



http://www.nwbombers.com/
 
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DMorrill,



Do all the things Hammer suggested first. They are all worth checking. Then consider upgrades (plate, exhaust, air intake, injectors, etc. ) if you haven't done them already. I got about the same mileage you are when I first bought mine as a used truck in 2000. It was bone stock. I now get a pretty consistent 17 MPG on summer fuel. The air intake, exhaust, plate/AFC tuning, and timing made the most difference.



One last item, you might even consider having the pump removed and bench tuned. A good shop can get the output for each barrell much more closely matched and can bump up the output a bit. But it can be a bit pricey unless you do your own R&R of the pump.



-Jay
 
DMorrill said:
98 4x4 12v,x-cab built transmission, milage has never been over 14mpg.



If you have had it a long time then I would think that you have a timeing problem. If the problem was new I would suspect the fuel system. Are your tires stock? If they are larger than stock that can affect your calculations. If you have 4. 10 gears and drive aggressively you will get poor mileage.
 
I have had my truck since new, over 8yrs, and get 13-14 mpg in town. Hiway milage depends on the speed. At 60 I can get 19 but it falls off fast as speed increases. If I cruise 70+ mileage gets down to about 14-15. Moving a heavy barn thru the air takes fuel. Your towing milage is pretty close to what I get and about normal for these trucks. If you have 4. 10s hiway speeds will really slam your mileage.
 
It pains me :D to agree with Hammer. . . in most of what he wrote.

After all this time, I have to think that maybe HVAC had something, and 24 is the proper number of valves :eek:

Be sure the injectors are working cleanly--get them pop tested. Get someone who knows what to do to set the timing about 15-15. 5 deg. Make sure the air filter is clean and the collar going to the inner fender isn't collapsing under vacuum (try removing it).
 
Hey Joe. .

I will now make sure my snowblower is full of gas and readied for the blizzard thats a coming my way. Never thought you would have to do that,LOL. I do have a big bottle of Motrin you can use though. I did actually forget about the injector check though,my bad glad you caught it. I do agree with the HVAC comment,the more I drive mine the more I wish it was a computer scooter and a automatic,age must be catching up with me... ... . Andy



BTW. .

Does this mean the next time I sneak through Albuquerque on a trip you'll buy the steak????.
 
Joseph Donnelly said:
It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . )It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . It pains me to agree with Hammer. . . .





;) ;) :D :-laf lol
 
The collar going onto the fender can collapse? I have read that some have removed it but I didn't know it could collapse, I will be taking a look at mine.
 
I took the beast to Oregon Fuel Injectors OFI,



The timing is set at 15 deg.

Fuel pressure is 22lbs

noted blown exhuast gaskets.



Took to Cummins Northwest:

had intake system checked, problems



waste gate hose at bottom of turbo, cut by hose clamp, found a loose clamps also.

Bought exhaust gaskets.



installed gaskets, topped off tank adding bio-con and injector teatment, drove to dealer for lifetime free oil change, changed fuel filter.



results:



no changes after OFI

3lbs increase in boost after leaving Cummins Northwest

2lbs increase in boost after installing exhuast gastkets



fuel mileage ghas not been checked, but with the extra 5lbs boost, it feels better performng,



thanks again
 
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