Here I am

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Mild Surging

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Throttle return spring

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Afc housing ??

Status
Not open for further replies.
Hi folks,

I've developed a mild engine surge that happens while cruising. I was driving on the highway today at about 65 with the cruise control on. We decided to pull into a rest stop for a minute and when I hit the brake pedal, the engine still held about 1500 rpms, like the cruise was still on. I hit the off button for the cruise and no result. I just turned the truck off and went inside. Came back out and everything was back to normal. No revving at idle. Further down the road the engine was surging about 150-200 rpms from time to time with no change in pedal input from me. No codes were thrown-I checked for them with my Smarty, however the ABS light came on for about 30 seconds, then went off. Nothing weird was happening with the brakes. This concerned me enough to turn around and go home because I had something similar happen about 6 months ago.

Back then it started off very gradually but progressively got worse. The engine was surging from time to time on local roads, not the highway. It threw codes that said it was the TPS. My shop replaced that and it was ok for a very short time-week or so. Then the engine began to rev up from idle when sitting parked on its own. Eventually it got worse to where it threw 9 different codes and started bucking, spitting black smoke, and surging wildly. The shop determined that it was the ECM but also found that they are not made anymore. They sent my original one out to be rebuilt and this solved the problem. When they read the codes to the guy at the rebuild shop, he recognized the problem right away and said it was quite common.

I've had no issues until today. At first I was thinking that the ECM was going down again, but I started reading about this here and on other forums. The one thing that I keep finding is electrical noise, potentially from the alternator, is affecting the APPS. A bunch of people said the BD noise isolator worked great to fix this on their trucks with auto transmissions because it was causing the torque converter to lock/unlock. While I have a 6 speed, everything else sounds exactly like what is happening to me. Would a noise isolator help me? Is there anything else I should be looking at?


Thanks,
 
Thanks, Dave. The shop I work with heard of the diode going bad and say they tested for it, but I don't know what testing procedure they used. My guess is not the one listed above. It would make sense that if it went bad it would take out my ECM. The alternator is original to the truck. I'll see what I can do.
 
So I just did the test per the video and came up with .03 with an occasional surge to .04. Depending upon exactly where I held the probes the number went down a bit. Overall, I'd say it fits into the normal section listed in the other post, even though it's not exactly on the low end. My numbers look very similar to the ones in the video. I was kind of hoping this would be it, that way I could stop chasing the problem and be done with it.
 
Icman95, I can only tell you what worked for me. My manual truck was surging when I tried to use the cruise control, ( electronic on 2002) and it was bad enough that it felt like it might damage the drive train. I searched the forum and started looking at my grounds. What I found was corrosion on my drivers side negative battery terminal. It didn't look bad at all at first glance but I decided to change it anyhow. When I cut into it, turns out it was VERY corroded. I installed a new terminal and it's worked fine for the last 2 years.
 
Davidc - The info in the link you provided was fantastic. That eliminates the guess and try! THANKS!
 
Last edited:
I rebuilt my alternator, got the kit from Geno's, had the brushes and bearings, spare screws. My bearings were shot and had leaked out the sealed bearing sounded horrible and there was oil and crud all on front of the alternator. I think I checked my diodes with the alternator apart on the bench, in case anyone is going that route. Its real easy with a decent Fluke meter.

In the process I had a rough time getting my case screws loose, so I grabbed my impact screwdriver that you hit with a hammer, worked great, got first of 2 stuck screws out. Now I'm all set, for the second screw don't I mess up and put my impact driver on the screw on the plastic terminal block instead of the frozen case screw, wind up smashing the plastic terminal block into pieces. Ummm yeah that's not in the kit. So off to Google I go. I found a good web site that includes the same rebuild kit, brushes, bearings, screws, but also the magic plastic terminal block. Was only $39.36 with shipping.

Had the diodes checked bad I would have called them to see what options are out there, mine were fine so did not get that far.

My research again led me to the conclusion that my old oem with 205k miles is much better then the parts store alternators, once that is turned in as a core good luck getting one back. So even for $70 I would accept the no core and keep my original unit rebuild that and if I had to purchase one to get home on the road in an emergency.

3k on the rebuild I will recheck my A.C. on the DC and see how it's making out.

The kit is not for the diodes. Its just the added plastic terminal block and screws. Then bearings, brushes, screws.

They also have a listing for the 99+ kit DPI

My 96 was kit DPO.

They have good videos as well to watch, took PayPal credit card option, fast turn around.

Do the research before you buy but here are the links.

99-02
http://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/dpi/

94-98
http://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/dpo/

Also the long screw that holds the top side of my alternator to the bracket snapped during removal, so bought a new bolt and bracket from Cummins, the bracket comes unpainted, which is actually nice, you can prime and paint your choice. Then Antisieze the new hardware.
 
A long time ago a member had surging replacing the ecm took care of the problem.
Bluechipdiesel.com is a geat web site to learn about the vp44 ,ecm and other rellated components. They rebuild these pumps.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top