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Misfire on cyl #2

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6.7 won't run, possible turbo issue, need input.

Back several weeks ago when I shut down my engine I heard quite a bit of water girgle in the radiator. Replaced thermostat and radiator cap. About a week ago the engine started running rough and engine up to about 220 degrees. I took the truck to my local RAM dealer Monday. They first did a compression test. Cyl #2 ran about 200compression and #3 was a bit over 300#s. They did find a bent pushrod on #2. They are beginning to think I have a bit of blown head gasket. Any suggestions?
They did say for engine with 160k miles it is clean as a whistle. My AMSOIL bypass has done a great job.
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With a bent pushrod I would suspect debris in the cylinder and a bent valve leaking compression. Can they drop a borescope down #2 injector hole? Although sounds like the head needs to come off anyway.

Is the dealer the best place cost wise to pull the head and possibly a complete engine replacement or rebuild?
 
No debris in cylinder. Had a diesel business test the injector today and it checks out. I ordered just not a gasket kit, head studs kit and crankcase filter. Dealer will pull head Friday.
 
That's exactly what an engine looks like running AMZ/OIL. Delo it would have black streaks all over. Not saying that's bad but it is true.
 
Wife drove to dealer and picked up my Friday. I was unable to drive. I had major colon surgery couple weeks ago. Wife and service manager who test drove it extensively last week says it is running well. Total about $5,000.
 
Wife drove to dealer and picked up my Friday. I was unable to drive. I had major colon surgery couple weeks ago. Wife and service manager who test drove it extensively last week says it is running well. Total about $5,000.
What all did they do for $5k? That sounds like a bunch for a head gasket, a pushrod, and installing studs.
 
What all did they do for $5k? That sounds like a bunch for a head gasket, a pushrod, and installing studs.

Removed manifolds, valve cover, removed head and shaved. Removed all valve parts and cleaned. New valve stem seals. Replaced one bent push rod. Serviced valve seats, all gizmos related to valving ground and reseated. Cleaned and serviced engine service for head reinstallation. New thermostat. New anti-freeze and engine oil and filter. Cleaned surfaces on manifolds and installation. New CCV. All gaskets new. Installed new head ARP studs. Everything reinstalled and no parts or bolts left over. Total cost at dealer. $3,923.00. I supplied all gaskets, CCV, seals and ARP stud kit.
 
Removed manifolds, valve cover, removed head and shaved. Removed all valve parts and cleaned. New valve stem seals. Replaced one bent push rod. Serviced valve seats, all gizmos related to valving ground and reseated. Cleaned and serviced engine service for head reinstallation. New thermostat. New anti-freeze and engine oil and filter. Cleaned surfaces on manifolds and installation. New CCV. All gaskets new. Installed new head ARP studs. Everything reinstalled and no parts or bolts left over. Total cost at dealer. $3,923.00. I supplied all gaskets, CCV, seals and ARP stud kit.
Sounds about right for the price. I paid $4,500 but next time I'll do it myself because I have done the springs,pushrods and valve bridges . I would just have to have a machine shop do the valve job and deck it and save myself $2500 . You are in pain so you made the right decision . I did the head studs also. Have them re torqued though after a couple weeks .
 
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