Here I am

Modded stock turbo tow review

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

NV5600 Transmission internal parts

Rail Pressure low only at temps below 40 degrees

Status
Not open for further replies.
I had a couple turbos built for me from Austin Tate (taterbuilt turbos). One has a stock sized billet wheel compressor and a HE351VE turbine wheel it's on my 03. My 05 dually has a 62mm compressor wheel with the HE351VE turbine wheel. I just took my 03 on a long trip, over 600 miles pulling my 20ft stock trailer. It was windy and snowy. I used 4x4 for a bit and had to creep a long since the highway was snow covered. My milage was better than before and no shortage of power. Big hills didn't slow me down one bit. 36 psi (no wastegate) and 1250 F were my max numbers. I was very impressed. I have yet to tow on a big trip with my 05. It doesn't seem to have the same benefit as the 03. My 05 could really use a cam in it and then it would run a lot better.
 
Thanks for sharing. New the the Cummins world, I came from a 7.3 Powerstroke I bought new in 1998. I am stuck in California for a few more years and internal mods to a stock turbo on my 07 are something I am interested in. This builders name comes up a lot. When it is time I will need to talk to him.
 
Last edited:
Northfork, I had Tom at Turbo resource build my stock Holset. He kept the stock compressor side and modified the exhaust side to fit the stock 6.7 Holset turbine wheel. I also installed a two piece DDP exhaust manifold which passes for stock with the smog guys. I run a Smarty jr and my truck runs terrific! It is instantly responsive and my EGT's are hard to exceed 1150 TOWING!
 
That is perfect. I have my buddy who is very close to Tom going to inquire with him after the holidays. Cant find a DDP manifold, if you have a link much appreciated! Good info and thanks again!
 
Last edited:
Sorry, I bought a PDI 2 piece manifold. I also port matched the exhaust scroll of the turbo where it bolts to the exhaust manifold. Tell Tom to look up the turbo order for Chris Reynolds, Specialty Services.
Here is the link: http://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/pdi/manifolds-dodge.htm
You may have to have your friend have it shipped to him if he lives out of Calif. I bought mine 2-3 years ago and there wasn't an issue with shipping it to Calif then. I can't see where a different exhaust manifold violates CARB?
If you come down the 101 highway into Paso Robles area, I am right off of highway 41 that goes to Morro bay. You would be welcome to stop by and drive my truck and see if it is a go for you.
 
Thanks for that. Will do,. We are thinking about burning some of my wife's 4 weeks of vacation after the first of the year.and will be headed south to warmer country.. Might take you up on that.
 
Hey Guys, a question for you that have had the stock turbo reworked.

Did you upgrade the stock air box as well? I read in one thread that TDR did a study on upgraded air intakes and that taking warm air from the engine compartment actually decreased horsepower, any comments?

Also I'm wondering if you guys have done a grid heater delete as well?

As always, thanks in advance for your comments.
 
Stock air box on my 5.9 and since the turbo rebuild and upgrade, the filter monitor doesn't peg out as soon. Warm air is less dense than cold air but again, my air intake is stock. I still have my grid heaters in place but only one working to keep the check engine light out. I have the 6.7 turbine wheel mod on my truck. I was running 18,500 gross weight with my 5th wheel in tow. I couldn't be happier with the mod that Tom at Turbo resource. My towing mileage improved by 1 to 1.5 mpg. I just did a 450 round trip from Home to Los Angeles and back, running 70 mph plus and got a respectable 18.5 mpg hand calculated.
 
I added the AFE progard 7 drop on air filter to my stock air box, good reports on this filter. My filter minder does not move now.
I also did the 'diy' cold air intake mod as well.
Warm air is said to help your mpg; so I added a "T" in the hose coming out the bottom of the air box: one hose dropping down, and the other going back to the turbo area of the eng compartment. I have blast gates on each line so I can shut one or both off.
My grid heater is still in service...
 
I have modded stock air boxes in my trucks. 03 has 05 box with PSM cool hose. O5 has 08 airbox with Airaid MIT. 05 will consistently have higher IATs. I'd like to get a PSM hose for it too. EGT gets higher faster in 05. It has 62 mm stock compressor profile turbo with VE turbine wheel. My 05 could really benefit from a cam but I'm not sure it's worth it on a truck with close to 200,000 miles on it.
 
With the truck as described in post #9, plus my Smarty Jr at the 70 hp setting and torque and timing both on #2, I can hit 36 psi and 1050 EGT pre turbo. NO hotter than that. I have a SPA Tecnique EGT/BOOST digital gauge that stores the highest points on each reading.
 
There is none to minimal quantifiable difference between a hose drawing in outside air and just pulling air from the engine compartment. The point is moot at anything over 20 mph anyway as air temp under the hood is close to ambient. The only benefit a cold air inlet has is in low speed high load conditions which are rare for normal usage. The stock air box with holes drilled in the bottom plus a 4" pleat air filter showed ZERO differences from the filter removed and the hood open on multiple dyno runs up to 500 HP, there is just nothing there to say a cold air intake is any better than an under hood intake.

Grid heater delete on anything less than an all out race truck is just a placebo mod, it just doesn't make enough difference to really matter. There are better places to spend the time working on air flow with better return, it just cost almost nothing to remove the grids.

The stock HE351 60 mm compressor is pretty good from 25 -35 psi but it does suffer a bit in the normal usage range of 15-25 psi, upgrading to 62 mm wheel and a slight better turbine gives better air at lower boost and that will do more for EGT's and engine life than any other mod. A bigger bite of air and enough turbine to drive it really helps, especially towing.

The +04.5 engines will always show consistently higher EGT's than a pre 04.5 due to cam and tuning. The nice thing about the 05 is you can run a constant 200 degrees more of EGT temp than an 03 and be perfectly safe. Change the timing and all bets are off other than you will push the 05 hotter longer than an 03. A timing advanced 03 had better not run too long 1200 degrees where an 05 will do that all day long with no issues. Running the full timing advance of a Smarty may help mileage but extended EGT's will heat soak the pistons in load conditions and it doesn't necessarily have to exceed 1200 degrees to have a big problem.
 
Cerberusiam I have both of my trucks similarly modded with 50 hp injectors and Smarty Touches. I run the Smarty on a higher level on my 03 to give me the fueling I'd like. I run the timing on the setting that is more advanced than stock on both. I like the EGT reduction and fuel economy increase but I didn't want to be hard on my head gasket. Could I go up a level on my 05 on the timing? I also back out of the throttle when I hit 1250 F. My 05 can handle more but my 03 I should be quite diligent about. The way the fueling is on my 05 gives me good power over 2000 rpm but falls flat under. 1900 rpm is where I often run it on the highway. My 03 will hold rpm way better on the hills but it's 2000 lbs lighter I'd imagine, less rubber on the road, more wind to push and no free spin.

Diesel Tuning has always interested me. I've been an Ekotuning dealer for the last 2 years. We mainly do tractors, sprayers, combines, and construction equipment. Our tunes are dyno proven. We can sure put a smile on a farmers face with +50hp tune. What I've learned from the TDR has really helped me. Thanks to all of you.
 
Just remember that you did not really decrease EGT's on either truck, just moved them from 1 place to another. X amount of fuel is going to create Z amount of BTU's, a decrease in EGT's in the exhaust correlates directly to an increase in the cylinder temps and subsequent heat soak of the pistons. The 03 will need more timing than the 05 because of the injector angle and piston design, the 05 needs more timing than the 03 because it starts out less. That said, pretty sure the Smarty rests timing to a common start point on both so it evens up some what.

TM3 on an 05 is still a lot of advance when towing heavy, it will generate pretty good in-cylinder temps and pressures. I liked SW4 when GCVW went over 20k, it seemed to help low end power and keep the turbo spooled better which was better EGT's. However, every truck is different so it is not an absolute rule.

That 2000 lb difference will definitely be felt and usually in lower rpms, if gearing is different that would compensate but not so if it is the same. Peak TQ should be right at 2000 rpms on both now and ideally you would be running on the front side of that for best results. On the back side of the TQ curve weight will be more contributory to holding speeds on grades.
 
Cerb..I have a 04 that I run a TST on, I have it set to cut / de-fuel at 1200 (pre turbine), should I lower that for engine safety? I never really get that hot towing, and if taking rolling hills, I usually back out about 900~1000 deg ( that is to save 6th gear w/o having to slow to 55mph ) or down shift if pulling a long grade in which case it stays low above 2500rpm. With 4;10 RA it does not run that high pulling 24k GCVW (700 or so) but I am interested in the upgrade, just still researching if it will provide real word results in my case. ( plus I just spent my budget on a new NV5600 + SB clutch due to pilot bearing failure)
 
I think you are fine at 1200 to defuel. It is the amount of time spent at higher EGT's that will heat soak the piston. Since you the HO engine you could probably set it to defuel at 1300 and be safe enough. It depends a lot on what timing curve the TST is following.
 
BCbender I think the modded turbo would give you more power, lower EGT, and better fuel economy. Since you have 4.10 gears and rev higher you'll benefit a lot form the better flowing turbine wheel. I'm not sure how many miles are on your stock turbo but they do wear out. It's best to get them rebuilt on your schedule rather than their schedule as well.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top