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Guys,

Is there anymore discussion on the clutch subject?? I am just trying to compile data so if/when I need a clutch, I'll know exactly what to buy. I've read the earlier posts on the topic, but it seems that the noise has died down somewhat. I was thinking of going with the Sachs clutch, it has served my 89 D250 well. 155,000 miles alot of towing and romping around and no slipping yet.

later
Don



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Ol' Blue "First of the first gens: 1989 D 250 Ice blue met. 5 spd 3. 54, 155,000, Banks stage III powerpack, 3. 5" straight exhaust, pump adjustments, "'Ol Blue Special" injectors.
1999 3500 4x4 Chassis cab Emerald green ISB 5 spd 4. 10 K&N Filter straight exhaust 9 ft flatbed WARN fenderflares,Let, 275hp injectors installed, boost and pyro gages, VA plug'n power and Practical Solutions boost module. Jacobs E brake. Getting ready to install Banks Power Pack TLC!!
May buy another one in 2009!!
 
Do any of you guys know a good place to get a Sachs clutch for a 2001 six speed.

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2001 ETH SWB Sport, HX-40, 4" Exhaust, DD III's, RE-0880, ATS Manifold, Too MUCH Stereo
 
I made the choice... ..... Sachs it is! With brass pucks! Joe Donnelly is the only Place to get one, as far as I know.

Gene

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1997 Cummins Dodge 4x4 Bombed & Amsoiled. Amsoil Premiere Direct Jobber, Member of: NRA Business Alliance, GLTDR, WANTED: Wrecked Dodges.
www.awdist.com
 
Sachs doesn't actually make a clutch for the '01 6 speed. My clutch man is using a 1. 375" x 10 spline hub from a medium duty truck application (dump trucks, fork lifts, etc) with the Sachs pressure plate. He has modified the clutch since (1) the stock 13" LuK is probably the worst clutch I have seen in a long time (other than one I saw for a Suzuki Sidekick), and (2) most people want one to hold more power than stock. The clamp load is increased from around 2600-2800 lb to around 3500-3600 lb. Second, the friction material is the brass pucks. He uses 12 of them (6 per side) for good torque capacity with long wear characteristics.

If you just want a stock Sachs clutch, the pressure plate is also a problem. The ETH/DEE bolt pattern is wrong so you have to redrill it or put in a flywheel from 1994-up five speed application. Overall it is an easy swap but not cheap. If you want to play with the power, you have to pay. At least the clutch is a very high quality unit. Hope this helps you to understand the issues involved.
 
well, i am glad this subject is at hand again as well. i too have read the old posts and have been compiling data. after my BOMBing mission last weekend, my clutch has shown its inadquatcies!!! i like what everybody has said about the Mcleod, but really don't want to spend all that $$$ how has the Luk been holding up for the guys who have them? how about the Sachs clutch, didn't find too much info on those. i think that i need something that will hold about 400hp and 850 ft/lb of torque, not that i have that much now, but the BOMBing virus has bitten, and it could be a bad case #ad
#ad
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any input/suggestions would be duely appriciated!

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Jeremy Kern
1999 2500HD 4x4 QC,SB, ISB, 5spd, 3. 54LSD, 33x12. 50 cooper STT's Denver off-road bumper with Ramsey RE12000, PIAA series 520, Rancho RS9000's, heavy ft. springs, JVD Torque Enhancer, DiPricol boost and pryo gauges, and a bunch of other little things!
 
BLKDEMON
Did you have a local shop in the Austin area install your injectors? Or did you just dive in on your own? I am considering getting the DD2's and I'm considering having someone locally do it. Or if anybody else knows if somebody on the web has a detailed step by step instruction, I would like to know. Thanks
Jerry
 
I installed the injectors myself and they were really very easy. If you want we could make this into an Austin-area BOMB meeting. I've been wanting to get all area BOMBers together anyways.

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2001 ETH SWB Sport, HX-40, 4" Exhaust, DD III's, RE-0880, ATS Manifold, Too MUCH Stereo
 
Don't forget the new South Bend clutch. The 5-speed is rated at 400 HP and someone said that the 6-speed is rated at 350+. Testing is being done, someone should have some info shortly.

Gene,

Thanks for the email and an update on the Sachs clutch. Looking forward to hearing more from you when you get a chance to really test that Sachs.

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<font color=blue>"WHITE OBSESSION" 99 Quad Cab, White, SLT, 4x4, 5-sp, 3:54's, Raven cap (cab high), Rhino liner, Stainless Nerf Bars, Stainless Rocker Panels, Tow package, Pro-flap mud flaps with Stainless Cummins "C" add to rear flaps, Valentine One, Uniden PC78LTW CB, Hadley Bully Air Horns, HOT Power Edge, Psychotty Air Induction, Braided SS Fuel Lines, 4" Jardine Exhaust (Love the deep throaty sound), 285/75R16 Cooper A/T's, Navigator 55w backup lights. </font>

<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1086000&a=9265455" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My 99 Dodge Cummins</A></font>
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1086000&a=9815423" TARGET=_blank><font color=green>BD Dyno Days 10/28/00</A></font>

<font color=purple>
Things to come; The clutch has let me know it is going to need attention very soon!
Pyro, 50# Boost and Fuel Pressure gauges (have Ultra lites will install shortly), PE EZ timing module and injectors (have Bully Dog step III injectors just need to install them), have 2 KC Daylighters (Stainless with 385,000 candlepower each), have 2 KC Fog lamps(Stainless 100w each) and waiting for Bar II Stainless Brush Guard to arrive, then will mount guard and lights.

NRA Life Member! (Need to protect our rights and FREEDOM!!)<font size=-2>

[This message has been edited by BIG BOB (edited 12-29-2000). ]
 
I have a Luk Pro Gold in right now and it isn't enough for my current set up. #ad
I seem to slip more every day even with the #12 plate (230 HP/605 T) back in. I seem as if after the clutch has glazed it slips easier.

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EAT'M UP
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54, Forrest Green/Driftwood, LSD 5 speed, & Psychotty Air System, TST #11, 370 HP injectors, timing at 16 deg. , 16CM2 housing, AFC spring kit, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, TST EGT gauge & 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down, Rad fan removed, AmsOil Through out, Geno's trans filter kit, AmsOil Bypass system, Lund Winter front, Leer Cab Level Shell Driftwood , 255/85R16, Dyno'd 342 HP pre injectors & turbo housing *NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*

[This message has been edited by drawson (edited 12-30-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by drawson (edited 12-30-2000). ]
 
Will a stock Sachs clutch from the 89-93 trucks bolt onto the setup in a 99 with a 5 speeed??? I think they are nice. Thought if they would, I could getone beefed up a little and it would hold the power???

thanks
Don

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Ol' Blue "First of the first gens: 1989 D 250 Ice blue met. 5 spd 3. 54, 155,000, Banks stage III powerpack, 3. 5" straight exhaust, pump adjustments, "'Ol Blue Special" injectors.
1999 3500 4x4 Chassis cab Emerald green ISB 5 spd 4. 10 K&N Filter straight exhaust 9 ft flatbed WARN fenderflares,Let, 275hp injectors installed, boost and pyro gages, VA plug'n power and Practical Solutions boost module. Jacobs E brake. Getting ready to install Banks Power Pack TLC!!
May buy another one in 2009!!
 
Joe,
Will your modified Sach's clutch work with a 2000 Ram with the ETC engine and 6spd? I don't know if my truck has the 1. 375" input shaft that's in the ETH/DEE setup. Also, can you explain the options i. e. light, medium, and heavy springs, and orgainic and brass pucks? I want to hold 500+ hp, and I don't mind a stiff clutch pedal. I was thinking either heavy springs and organic pucks or medium springs and brass pucks. If I understand it correctly organic has less chatter, but requires stiffer springs than what would be necessary for brass pucks. I don't have any first hand knowledge with any of this so I would appreciate you input. Thanks again.

Michael

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2000 Ram 2500 SLT, 2wd Regcab, Driftwood/Agate, 6spd, ETC Diesel. Rickson 19. 5s, Simulators, Michelin 225/70R19. 5 tires, Reunel double break rear bumper, van Aaken CPC, TST Competition PowerMax, RV injectors, HX40-16cm2, 5" exhaust
 
If your starter has a 9/16" thick spacer between it and the block plate, you would need to redrill the flywheel or use the one with the smaller clutch bolt pattern. If no spacer, your wheel is OK. The Sachs hub is 1. 25" x10 spline, but my clutch man has a 1. 375" x10 spline hub as I have noted already. I don't know which spline you have. The modified Sachs comes ready to bolt in, with all changes made already so it will fit. The hub is too long stock and so the clutchman grinds about 0. 080" off the pressure plate side so it will clear the NV4500 front bearing retainer. If you want to put a stock Sachs into a 1994-up 5 speed Ram, you need to grind the hub, center the pressure plate manually with calipers or dial indicator, and use high quality capscrews.

Because he custom makes each clutch, a variety of friction facings vs. pressure are available. In general more pressure and higher coefficient of friction facings help torque capacity. Experience with other Rams helps us to pick the setup you need to hold the power vs. have decent driveability. The best quality Sachs facing is hard to get but the only organic I would bother with. There are a number of metallic ("ceramic") type facings to play with. He has a couple that he likes for wear, smoothness, coefficient, etc.

While there is little magic involved, there is a lot of research that can be done, and he has done it (my Ram is one of his guinea pigs). Most companies just stumble on something and if it seems to work, they use it and don't get too involved in the science vs. voodoo behind the combination. It is in investigating these factors that we come up with better clutches, however, and I am presently working with him on getting up to 600 hp, 1400 ft lb relaibly with the single-disk Sachs. Hope we get there--Sickly needs it and is feeling right peaked without the extra clutch to allow for "proper" fueling.
 
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