2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission more on brakes

[Jim HaskinsJ]

Just a little more on brakes. I have a 97 4x4 that I use to tow a fifthwheel that weighs about 14K. I think I am easy on brakes as the front pads have extremely long life. I do use the exhaust brake extensively. My problem is , FRONT ROTOR WARPAGE!. It seems the rear brakes do very little in stopping the truck. I have had the porportion valve on the rear axle removed and according to the reciept, a 1 1/8 rear wheel cylinder installed. The work was done in Sams shop and I sure it was done properly. My knowledge and logic tells me if you install a larger wheel cylinder it requires more fluid from the master cylender to move the piston and apply more pressure on the rear shoes. I have considered installing the EGR assembly on the front ene but my last cinservation with Sam was that the cost benifit was still in doubt.

Any thoughts on my problem or the benifits of larger wheel cylinders?

 

[Bigramguy]

I have installed the larger wheel cylinders,as well as bypassed the proportioning valve. It will now lock up the rears if your not carefull. It works best when loaded. You can only add so much rear brake before it overcomes the traction available with the rear tires. Rear brake adjustment is also important as well. Maybe they are just out of adjustment ?





As far as your rotor warpage,it could be a number of things. Sticking or dragging calipers,or caliper slide pins,collapsed front flex hoses,master cylinder sticking,etc,etc. It could also be due to the rotors being to thin or of poor quality.



The EGR setup will probably help,but with the rears upgraded and carbon-metallic pads on the front,I have had no problems with the braking power available. It does take some good pedal effort,but it always stops well.

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Ditto Big Ram Guy

I have a 97 too.

Here are my finding's.



I had warpage problems big time.



I have tried every type of caliper lube availible.

So far the stuff EGR sells has worked the best.



Here's my theroy



Heat causes the rotors to warp. (thats a given)

Dragging cailpers seemed to be my biggest enemy.

I found lots of causes for the calipers to drag.

1) The lube dried up.

I now use EGR lube



2) The bolts and sleeves were corroded.

Replaced with new caliper bolts



3) The Rubber bushing's swelled and stuck to the Caliper bolts.

I replace the boots at every brake job.



4) The caliper was rusty inside the hole where the bushing's go.

I use a brake cylinder hone to clean out the rust at every brake job.



5) The brake lines were old and had swelled shut.

I replaced with new stock lines ( I would go with the stainless from EGR)



6) The caliper pistons were getting stuck in the caliper.

I rebuilt the calipers with new seals.



7)Using the "wrong" pads can cause heat too!

This heat the cooks the lube and bushing's which in turn causes the caliper to stick and create more heat.





You could have any number of the problems above or none at of them at all.

It's just a list of what I have been thru.

I has taken 170k miles for me to figure this out.

I hope I can help others avoid the same problems.



SFB

 

[JHerrlich]

Assuming everything is in proper functioning order in your brake system, one of the big causes of heat would be long gentle stops. Ones where you would be as light as possible on the brakes to stop, using a longer distance rather than harder braking. This will heat up your disks and calipers, then, when you come to a stop, holding the brakes on will cause all of that stored heat in the pads to transfer to one section of the brake disk, causing warpage.



I learned back in my motorcycle days, that braking harder may use your pads a little more aggressively, but will keep your system cooler and have less brake fade.



That's my two cents, anyway.

 

[NETim]

tool C4212F

While we're on the subject of brakes. I rotated the tires on my truck for the first time the other night and inspected the brake pads as part of the job. I fully intended to pull the calipers and do a little cleanin' and greasin' job on the caliper sliding areas.



After reading the service manual, it called for the above mentioned tool to compress the caliper so that it can be removed. I stopped there and was content to just do a visual on the brakes. Only have 18K on the truck and the pads are still plenty thick.



It appears to me that a large "C" clamp with a 6" or 8" throat could be used to compress the caliper in lieu of the Mopar spec tool.



Am I on track?



Tim

 

[Bigramguy]

You will not really have to press the caliper back to get it off. If the truck is fairly new,and there is no wear or rust on the rotor then it will pretty much just lift off. Sometimes just grabbing the back (piston side) of the caliper,and pulling it towards you will help push the piston back a bit to make it a little easier.

 

[illflem]

You only need to compress the piston when you change pads. A C-clamp will work but I find it better just to open the bleed screw and use my hands. I've heard of a few cases of folks damaging their ABS unit forcing fluid back through it with a clamp.

 

[Bigramguy]

Bill,just a quick note. I have done numerous brakes jobs with ABS (not just on the rams),and have yet to open a bleeder screw or do any damage to the ABS. If you push the piston back slowly,it will be fine.



Not that opening the bleeder is a bad thing,but it could cause problems if it's siezed or snaps off,and you then have to bleed it afterwards,which is unnecessary.

 

[pathaymond]

I just use a turkey baster Nice clean one and remove some fluid from the brake resevoir just throw that removed fluid away then I very slowly use a c clamp and the old pad in place and open the caliper. when done I top off the resevoir and apply brakes then recheck fluid a couple more times. I have been told by some very reputable friends that turn wrenches every day that my method is fine as long as I am slow with the clamp. I do not go any farther open than I have to to install the new pads. done this this way since 93. never any issues from this method. Patrick