Most important aftermarket gauge?

[Radshooter]

Hi guys... Thanks for all the great info here. Some of the best money I've ever spent!!



Please entertain another newby question about gauges. What does the pre-turbo EGT tell you that the engine temp gauge doesn't? I haven't figuted this out yet, and it will probably be a major DUH! when I find out.



Question 2: My wife and I will be hitting the road next spring in our big 5er. We will be taking travel assignments while living in our trailer. It is a big, heavy beast, and will use our CTD to get from job to job. Money is tight right now, and if I can only do one aftermarket gauge, which one?? I am thinking EGT. I have a 6-speed, so transmission temp gauge is not high on my priority list. If I go EGT, how much more would it cost to go with 2 sensors and a toggle switch for pre/post turbo?? Is there something I should be more worried about than EGT??



Thanks for your input.



Steve

 

[rrausch]

If you can only get one, I believe EGT is the one you should be most concerned about.



Engine Water Temp will tell you how hot the Engine Coolant is, at the spot in the block where the Temp Sensor is.



But the EGT will tell you the temp of the exhaust gasses, as they pass out of the engine. These Cummins Diesels, when bombed or even stock but towing heavy, will produce so much exhaust temp that you can MELT your pistons! Yikes! But true!



Also, when you shut it down, you want to make sure the EGT gauge is under 300 degrees, this is because the Turbo bearings run in oil, and if the engine is shut off above 300 degrees, it tends to cook the oil in the Turbo Bearings which results in coking which wears out the bearing prematurely. Turbo failure is not pretty either, but it is considerably cheaper than melted pistons. But with an EGT gauge you can avoid either. If you can't afford the gauge for awhile use common sense when towing up grades, discretion in the use of your right foot is still the best way to avoid dangerous EGT's.

 

[Radshooter]

Thanks Robert! I didn't realize EGTs would get THAT high! What do you thind of the pre/post toggle idea? I have read about others here that do that.



When cooling down at the end of the day, should I just let it idle normal RPMs, or hold the RPMs a little high?? If I let it idle while checking in to the campground and then parking and setting up the RV, would that usually be enough cooldown??





Thanks again... ... . Steve

 

[Joe G.]

The pre-turbo EGT should be kept at or below 1300. The pre-turbo pyro will respond a lot quicker to EGT changes than a post-turbo pyro. You can get along without a post pyro if you just let it cool to about 250 or so before shut down. A normal idle will cool faster.

 

[bmoeller]

DIS

If you haven't decided where you are going to purchase your gauge from, the lowest prices I have found so far are from http://www.dieselpage.com/main.shtml I have the Isspro R607T pyro.



I purchased all my gauges from them. I highly recommend them. Their service is great. Very helpful.



Read this- http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm

 

[rrausch]

Sure, 2 readings are better than one any day.



When I am unloaded or not towing I hardly EVER see EGT's above 650.

When they are, it takes me about 2+ minutes of idling to get them down below 300.



I think it takes a sustained heavy-foot towing up a grade, or some serious bombing to see 1300 degrees. However, once you see that number it just may be TOO LATE! Yikes! Its better to be safe than sorry any day.

 

[dpuckett]

Originally posted by Radshooter

If I let it idle while checking in to the campground and then parking and setting up the RV, would that usually be enough cooldown??

Normally, that would be enough time; but let it idle a minute after getting parked just to be safe. In the 93 I had a few years ago, I could get to 350 just by moving the trailer 20 ft to get to a better parking spot.

I'd highly recommend putting the pyrometer PRE turbo. In my 91, I had the probe 1" post turbo for a week or so till I found a machine shop that could drill and tap the manifold. Never saw 950 deg@ 28psi up a 6% grade empty (I'm intercooler deprived for now). Put the probe where it belonged, and I could hit 1300 pretty easy with only 24 psi. So... ... the 1psi= 10 deg rule didnt apply; the "add 300 deg" rule didnt apply either. Point being- put it in the manifold- you know what temp you're making, it is more responsive to pedal position changes, and it doesnt have the turbo and W-G housing to dissipate all that heat and give a false sense of security.





Daniel

 

[btanner]

don't know how you feel about ebay but I got a set of gauges for a better price there. As long as you do some research on the gauges that you want and now the prices they are sold for you can get a pretty good deal.



-ben

 

[Radshooter]

Thanks everybody for your input. bmoeller, thanks for the link about turbos. I read it twice and bookmarked it so I could read it again!! Good info there! I think I will definately go with the EGT when it is tow time next spring if I can afford it. It will absolutely be the first gauge I buy when I can afford it. Right now my priorities for getting us on the road next spring are 6 new tires for the fiver, and we may have to flip the axles to get it to ride level. This 03 is about 4 inches taller than my 99!!!

 

[CFAR]

I would definately find some way to hook up a fuel gauge, you have a 99' some of which had a possible flaw in the vp44, so you will want to make sure you have good lp pressure to the vp44. Definately pre turbo, I don't see any reason for a post turbo sensor, and you could probably put in a fuel pressure gauge for what another one costs.

 

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by rrausch

I think it takes a sustained heavy-foot towing up a grade, or some serious bombing to see 1300 degrees.

My stock 2002 ETH/DEE would regularly hit 1300 degF pre-turbo when towing our 13,500 lb 36' 5th wheel. With the EZ and boost elbow, exhaust system and intake, that fell to 1100 degF pre-turbo when towing. The DD2's have brought maximum EGT's when towing back up to 1225 degF (so far!)



Rusty

 

[ReelDuel]

my email about best price on gauges

What kind of package price do you have for a 3 gauge pillar and ISSPRO high

viz silver bezel gauges. I want pyro, tran temp and boost. Does the pillar

come painted to match the truck?? Does this include all necessary wiring etc

to install on a 2004 RAM 2500??

Thank you







For the 04 Ram there is an extra fitting I include for the boost gauge to

prevent tapping the intake horn... The 3 gauge combo ready to install will

run you $275. 00 freight included in the continental US..... Even the fuse

taps, and a T tap is included to connect your wiring... .



Thanks for inquiring.



Douglas Conrad

Advanced Diesel Technology LLC

Phone: 304-864-3399

Fax: 304-864-3974

www.smokindiesel.com

 

[RRoton]

Which Gauges

Is a BOOST gage really useful?



I am going to order a 3 gauge setup. I want EGT for sure, and, I have auto so I would like transmission Temp. It seems to me a FUEL Pressure would be more useful than a boost, but I have never even seen one so, What the heck do I know?

I do not plan any engine mods except a muffler change.

 

[Forrest Nearing]

a boost gauge is a good thing to have... lets you make sure you're not operating outside of your turbo's efficiency range, lets you see if something's amiss (not making as much boost as usual?), and is a nice tool to help conserve fuel if you're into that sort of thing.



besides, it's fun to watch your buddies go :--) when they see how much boost you're running.



Forrest