Moving to Africa: Must Crush Landrovers...

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I've just been assigned to Africa, and I definitely believe in driving American iron when I'm overseas. I've pretty much decided on a Cummins QC SB. Heavy duty drivetrain, diesel economy, SLT+ comfort, and great looks seem like a perfect combination to me.

I won't be towing or carrying particularly heavy loads, but reliability and reasonable off-road capability are important to me. I'd like to be able to go at least anywhere stock diesel long wheelbase Landcruisers and Landrovers go (national pride could be at stake... )

With the above in mind, I'd appreciate your thoughts on a few questions I have:

--Should I go for ETH? Is it likely to be significantly less reliable or economical than ETC?

--Does the Camper special raise the rear end much?

--Will I need a lift kit for 315s or 35 x 12s? I'd probably get the camper special and spacers for the front end.

--Does anyone have any experience with or recommendations for limited slips for the front?

--Any thoughts on how I should equip a truck (within reason) are much appreciated.

Thanks!

 

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I'm no expert in most of the areas you asked about, but a couple of thoughts:
1) Off roading in diesels - make sure you keep your air intake high and dry. High compression = instant engine destruction if you ingest water (so I've heard). Plus, splashing water on a hot turbo turning at 1000's of rpm has got to be trouble...
2) Limited slip on front axles - generally not recommended due to significant handling issues. Driver Controlled locker would be the ultimate - BUT - I'm currently trying to have ARB locker installed on mine, and apparently the Dodge 2001 2500 has a 32 spline axle that ARB had never seen before, so the ARB unit that was supposed to fit the Dana 60 WON'T work. This may impact other after-market options as well; I'm still researching. So far, nobody has figured how to compensate; I may have to give up on improved front end traction and use a winch when it gets that bad.
You've set a high goal for yourself - I love my truck, but, it is going to be tough for a truck, heavy in the front and light in the rear, to go one-on-one with vehicles that were designed with "off road" as a drawing-board up concept. Make us proud!


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2001 ETH, QC, LWB, 4WD, 3. 54, SPA Pyro & Boost, Leer Cab-high shell, Rear ARB locker, Psychotty Air

 

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I definitely would NOT get the camper special... what you want is suspension travel and axle mobility-the two things the camper special tries to stop. Also, I would definitely get as much weight in the rear as possible (extra fuel, tires, water, campbox, etc. . ). Seriously, before choosing a ram, can you get parts over their for the stuff that will break?

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2001 SLT dominantly valved ETH quadcab 4x4 dually
icq61308432

 

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One more thing, if you must have american iron, how about a jeep? If your just drivin dirt roads, etc... the ram would be fine. However, if your blazing trails, I would much rather be in landcruiser or jeep (remember, the winch is no good if everything you tie it too gets pulled out of the ground due to the weight of your vehicle)-dm

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2001 SLT dominantly valved ETH quadcab 4x4 dually
icq61308432

 

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Talk to MY6EATSV8's he's the cummins diesel mud bog king he could tell you a lot about setting up a Ram for off road use, I'm an off roader but Jeeps are my area of expertise

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BLACK BEAST: 2K1 QC, SWB, Auto, 4X4, 4. 10 LSD, SLT, Black, Camel leather, Tow pckg, nv241HD, cab lights, 2 inch daystar coil spacers, 35 inch Mickey thompson claws, bushwacker flares, rhino lined bed and rocker panels.

soon to come;Auto transmission upgrades and some Bombing to outrun the durrmacks and pSd's

GREEN MACHINE: 93 Jeep Wrangler 4. 0L, T-18, 38X11 Boggers, Dana 44's, AtlasII T-case, ARB's, warn and moser shafts, Ramsey 5K winch... . NEEDS A DIESEL!!!!!!

 

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dmurdock,

Thanks for your observations. In answer to your questions, yes I have considered Jeeps. I currently own a 1985 CJ7 (In the US), a 1972 rt hand drive CJ5 (currently being rebuilt in Kenya), and a 1992 Cherokee (for sale in Kenya). I'll take the '72 with me when I move, and would use it if I expected to run into really difficult 4 wheeling. The problem with the CJs is lack of comfort and carrying capacity. The problem with the Cherokee is that the entire drivetrain is simply too fragile. Also, the Cummins economy should be better than any of my Jeeps. With gasoline at $4 per gallon and diesel at under $3, the diesel makes a lot of sense.

I am not trying to build an expedition vehicle, although I would expect to spend quite a bit of time on fairly muddy trails and camping at some fairly remote fishing areas. I don't want to try to make a 3/4 ton pickup something it isn't (i. e. a Jeep), but I would also like to be able to take trips without too much fear of getting stuck and to show a positive example of American products.

Parts and service will be no more of a problem than with any other American vehicle. I can get what I need shipped in.

If I were sensible, I'd get a Toyota Landcruiser 105, a Toyota CrewCab minitruck, or a Landrover (I like their 130" wheelbase crewcab pickup) like most other people in Africa. But as I said, I believe in driving American when I'm overseas. And I'm not sure the big Ram will be so disadvantaged in performance. The Toyota with a 4. 2 liter diesel isn't exactly a lightweight. The Landrover has a great suspension, but it also has weight distribution problems (It's still a pickup) and its engines are terrible. You have a choice of the old Buick V8 which uses far too much petrol for weak v8 performance or a 2. 5 liter turbodiesel which is simply a dog.

Good point regarding the camper special and suspension flex. Maybe I should just look for a mild lift kit. I only want to put on slightly larger tires to get the diffs a little higher and to get a little more ground clearance for that very long wheelbase. Looks good, too #ad
I also want to have fairly aggressive tires, perhaps BFG MTs.

 

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You can clear 285/75 R16's stock on a 2500. Any larger will require a lift kit. In order to retain stock ride, I would go with either a body lift (around $100) or a suspension lift that has caps for the front coils and blocks for the rear (about $200). For prices and info check www.johnwalls.com or www.roughcountry.com Rough Country (Heckethorn) does not have the 2" suspension lift for 3/4 ton Dodge's on their website, but they stock it. E-mail me for more info.

 

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hey Exbat,
First off be carfull over in that neck of the woods. Second I would deffinately get an ETH if I could, I'd also get 3. 54 gears, but I hear they are not offering posi in 3. 54's anymore, I have a 3" stage 2, means it has 4 shocks in the front, you don't need it, that way you reatain the stock ride in front, and an add a leaf in the rear, I also run 35/ 12. 50x 16. 5 bfg m/t's with no clearnace problems at all, you'll see in a upcoming Peteresons 4Wheel and offroad mag, I went and did the shoot today, at one point one of the rear tires is about 4 feet off the ground. LOL. I would also do a hx 40 w/16cm2,4" exhaust, DD3's, hot PE,ve and a Mccleod, and guages, probably LPG injection. Thats what I would do if I could, good luck oh ya, if it what a quad cab long bed I'd do the 5. 5" lift with 36x 14. 5's tsl radials.
be safe
Adam

 

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Adam. . lil of the subject. . but what would be required and who offers a kit to put 38's on a 99 Ram... trying to stay away from body lifts... all suspension... thanks... . JB

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99 Quad,Long bed,4x4, SLT,Auto,K&N,Mobil Super Delvac 1300,fuel line up-grade from lift pump to filter and from filter to injection pump, Suncoast coverter,BD valve body and pressure-loc,Mag-Hytec trans pan,Amsoil ATF-4,Auto meter Ultra lite gauges:Boost,EGT,Fuel Pressure,Trans Temp, "true" Jet-Hot Coated 5 inch exhaust from turbo to tail pipe(over the axle)Borla shoot-out muffler,DD stage 3 injectors and boost module,HX-40 16cm2 and ATS exhaust manifold in tranit to Jet-Hot for there 2000 series coating(Gray) Blue Box here and going on 7/19/00, Valentine 1, EZ-pass

 

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JB,
I did a magazine search and could only find up to the 5. 5 inch lifts, I think you would probably only have to run a 2" body in order to run 38's, I have seen a couple of v10 truck at the mud bogs(beet both) running 38's but they both had 3" body lifts. You are like me about body lifts, I don't like em, but they do not look bad when combined this way, just to big for me.
Adam

 

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And... if'n ya got the funds. . you could always shoe-horn a Cummin's into a Hummer #ad

Hmmmm... I wonder where I got that idea? #ad

Then you'd have a CumminHummer!!! (or... you'd hear your HummerCummin!) #ad

Probably wouldn't need any other mods past that. Well... cep't for the obligatory waterbuffalo head-n-horns mounted to the pushbar #ad
#ad
#ad
Oh... and don't forget to "Rhinoproof" your doors... (I'm still upset about that scene in "Hatari"!) #ad


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"Axekicker"
Las Vegas
'00, 2500/QC/SWB, 4X4, A/T, SLT, White/Grey,... Properly Valved.

[This message has been edited by Axekicker (edited 07-22-2000). ]

 

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You will be able to fit 35" rubber under all 4 fenders if you lift the front 2".

Someone mentioned wheel travel/axle articulation. I second that. Don't get the rear anti-sway bar. Look at Skyjacker's lift kits. They've got some replacement control arms that allow the front axle to articulate more. However, if you want MORE wheel travel AND 35" tires then you'd better go for a 4" lift.

One more suggestion: Get a 5- or 6-speed manual. There's nothing like good low-end torque and a manual transmission off road. I know a lot of people like autos off road and I agree if you don't have the low-end torque, but with a straight-6 diesel, I think a manal is the way to go -- plus they seem to have less go wrong with them.


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1999 24v, NV4500HD, QC, 4x4, 3. 54, 8' Bed w/ Rhino Lining, 285/75R16s on 16x8 Eagles, 2" Skyjacker front lift, Glasstite topper, Racor LFS

[This message has been edited by Kyle (edited 07-23-2000). ]