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Multifuction Switch Repair

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sag2

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OK, I have not proved it out, but this is off the neighbors truck that was doing the right turn when he selected left and vice versa. I picked up the recall switch for him that fits the 3500 for $25 and changed it. I had the old one sitting around and finally got around to pulling it apart to see what might have gone wrong. It appears to me the lube they use for the contacts finally picked up enough metal from the circuit board that it became conductive. If you look at the grease you can see how it "hangs over" from one contact strip to another. I wiped it clean and I'm assuming the problem is probably fixed. One of these days I'll reinstall it and see if it works. If your having trouble with your multifunction switch I certainly would give it a try first before buying a new one. Especially since you don't have to remove the steering wheel to change it. The first two photos show how to pull the two screws out and slide the switch from the bracket. Just give it a sharp pull after removing the screws and wiring and it pulls straight out the drivers side.
The top photo shows the parts slightly pulled apart and the screw holes are on the right side of the photo. And remember we are looking at the switch flipped right to left.
 
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These shots show the switch taken apart. You need a very small tamper proof Torx to remove the screws. If you don't have tamper proof Torx in your tool box, Harbor Freight sells a set of tamper proof bits for a few dollars that will work for this job. The screws are very small, much smaller than a T-10.
Upper photo shows the board and associated contacts, middle shows the contact strips and the grease smeared between contacts, lower is a close up of the contacts.
It is a very simple switch, and I think I'm right on the failure mode. Since you don't have to pull the steering wheel to try this repair or change the switch if it doesn't work, it is worth a try. Hope this helps.
 
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I get the same symptoms on occasion.



Do you have the Recall or TSB Number and Part Numbers of the new/improved Switch?



Is it available from the aftermarket parts houses or Dodge/Chrysler only?



Thanks
 
It blows my mind that the Multifunction switch has been an issue since the gen1 trucks and it's still an issue today. however I've had many Toyota trucks and Honda's that had a multifunction switch that just worked. Ok the Toy's would not stop... ... . but that's another story... Lol[/I]
 
My has not fully failed. Today it worked fine... probably because I have a new one in a box on the back seat. I am going to try the fix first. Thanks for the info.
 
OK, I have not proved it out, but this is off the neighbors truck that was doing the right turn when he selected left and vice versa. I picked up the recall switch for him that fits the 3500 for $25 and changed it. I had the old one sitting around and finally got around to pulling it apart to see what might have gone wrong. It appears to me the lube they use for the contacts finally picked up enough metal from the circuit board that it became conductive. If you look at the grease you can see how it "hangs over" from one contact strip to another. I wiped it clean and I'm assuming the problem is probably fixed. One of these days I'll reinstall it and see if it works. If your having trouble with your multifunction switch I certainly would give it a try first before buying a new one. Especially since you don't have to remove the steering wheel to change it. The first two photos show how to pull the two screws out and slide the switch from the bracket. Just give it a sharp pull after removing the screws and wiring and it pulls straight out the drivers side.

The top photo shows the parts slightly pulled apart and the screw holes are on the right side of the photo. And remember we are looking at the switch flipped right to left.



I read it somewhere and think there was link to it posted by someone else but can't find it. I seem to recall just removing two screws on the underside of the column to access the switch. Contrary to what my manual says which goes into the whole process of disconnecting neg-batt cables and pulling the wheel and safety issue of the airbag and so on...



A short recap would be appreciated on the replacement procedure.



:)
 
Here's how I did it--

(1) remove the 2 screws which hold the plastic "clamshell" together behind the steering wheel (torx bit)

(2) Remove the steering wheel up/down lever (pull back towards the driver seat)

(3) Pull the top half of the clamshell up and the bottom half down, spreading it out around the ignition switch

(4) Disconnect the wiring harness from the switch by pulling back the red locking tab and then sliding the plug towards the front of the truck

(5) Remove the 2 phillips screws which hold the multifunction switch to the steering column (they are on the left side top and bottom,just next to where the switch stalk joins the switch body... NOTE--a right angle phillips screwdriver is REALLY helpful here). Then, depress the little grey tab in the center of the switch body while pulling along the stalk, strait towards the drivers door... it WILL slide right out.


Installation, obviously, is the reverse of the above steps.

I did this when I performed the "poormans" brightbox mod to my multifunction switch. It is one of my favorite mods!!! Look here for the complete mod--

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ifunction-high-beam-switch-2.html#post2148065
 
Thanks Bob and Seafish. I do now remember reading the poor mans brite box thread. Wasn't there something about the "bulb out" thing bypassed though ? I think HID would be a great way to go, so far the best thing I've done is change out the bulbs to Sylvania super white, a definite improvement but still not good enough for my night driving needs, and I don't want to add axillary lamps.

I talked to someone several months backs, (HID supplier or Fogzilla?) he said within about 6 months there will be a mod for the 05's to handle the HID's properly. Can't remember the details now, something about the ECM or ??

Anyhow, did Dodge ever improve the lighting ? That was one of the first things I noticed when switching from my GMC to Ram. Even today I see guy's with added PIAA's or Hella's on new rigs so my guess is, still crappy. .
 
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On my 05, it got worse and worse, but sometimes functioned okay for a while, then one weekend where it just would not activate the turn signals correctly at all I went to the dealer on Monday and paid $95 for a new one. Then it started working correctly again so I postponed replacement. Since then its been working correctly / normally 98% of the time so the new one is still sitting in the box awaiting possible future failure.

Nothing like buying the part and then having it work fine thereafter.

Grease must have worked itself out...
 
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