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My first vehicle check

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Fuel Water Seperator Draining

Proper Shifting of a Hand Shaker

I am a proud new owner of a used 1998 Dodge 2500 SLT Larmine 4x4 with a 12valve cummins with 77,982 miles and is an automatic. I am planning on taking it to the local dodge dealer for service. I already have a couple of items for them to check out. 1. When I accellarate from a stop and turn either right or left I feel a shuddering. I know this needs to be checked out. 2. When I brake the truck pulls to the right. 3. When I lightly brake I can feel in the brake pedal a grab and go type of feeling (jerking maybe a better word for it).



What else would you have them look at? The previous owner had the oil changed at 74,000 miles. I plan on having them check out the brakes, suspension, drive train. Any other suggestions? Any help would be great!



Thanks



aklabs
 
I'd change all the fluids and filters. Pop the inspection cover off the transmission and look at the color of the torque convertor. Blue is usually a reman. not sure what color the stock one is as mine was rebuilt before I bought it. Check u-joints, front axle, and steering parts. Pop the inlet house off the turbo and check the play in the turbo and while your there might as well remove the silencer ring. :D Also have them check the valves.



I'm pretty religious bout my oil changes. 2500-3000 miles as it was abused before me.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply.



I take it that removing the silencer ring would make the engine louder. What could I expect to pay for all the work you list, ballpark? I want to get the best deal but living on an island in Alaska I will end up paying quite a bit.



thanks
 
brakes, front at least are a 30 min job. . easy money... dont even waste your time paying someone else to do it... I go through front pads every couple thousand miles, as I have a front porch replacement bumper on my truck... All you need is a jack, C Clamp and I believe a 8 or 10mm allen wrench to do the brakes.



-Chris-
 
Before doing anything to the front brakes, adjust the rear. Then see if that affects your brake pull. The so-called automatic rear brake adjusters work when they feel like it so you have to do it by hand every so often.
 
The silencer ring just makes the turbo louder. You can pop it out yourself with a couple screwdrivers. Dealer may not even have a clue what your talking about.



Cost me a 12 pack of beer to get my truck checked out, but he was a friend. I would expect acouple shop hours plus fluids and filters if you have them do everything. Some dealers just flush the trans. There was a thread on that a while back. Differentials and oil is pretty easy to do yourself. 3/8 rachet, a short extenstion, and a 9/16 socket.
 
Killer Dowel Pin (KDP)

I've read a lot about his even though I'm a 24 valver. Since you got the 12 valve Cummins, you need to do a search on this and learn about it, if you haven't already. If it hasn't been corrected, see that it gets done. I've heard way too many horror stories about the problems that it can (and usually does) cause.
 
Well got a report back from the Dodge dealership and this is what they found.



Front brakes worn down to the tabs.

Back brakes were ok but the master cylinder was leaking.

The rear axel seal was leaking.

The rear differential was leaking

They were going to look at the ball/ujoints tomorrow

The parking/emergency brake spring was broke and they are replacing the entire assembly



Other then that everythng else was in very good condition.



Total cost (parts plus labor) $1700



Now another grand on tires and I should have a very excellent truck. I know most of you do your own work and in the future(this summer) I probably will but for now I need the truck in good working order. I just don't have the time (in college and working full time).



dawna
 
That is the price we pay in Kodiak, Alaska. They have a captive audience and with limited places to go. The cost for labor is running 65 to 70 dollars per hour. This is the one thing I hate about living where I do.



Dawna
 
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