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My Truck Has a Fever...

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How much can I hual in my 2500

Power tuning

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Here's the deal. I've had Geno's gauges in my truck for about three years and they've performed flawlessly. My EGT probe is installed in the elbow, after the turbo. I check it often, and rely upon it to decide when to shut the engine off -- even after short hops to run errands, etc.

I noticed, after doing the BD exhaust brake (with 60 lb. springs) installation, that the EGTs were noticeably higher during operation. I'd been enjoying level, 65 mph, EGTs in the 450 range -- now, they were 500-550. Cool-down times became extended, somewhat, too. I also noticed a very slight performance decline -- mostly in throttle response -- after the install.

A couple of months ago, I took my truck back to Everett Smith (Smith Diesel, Carlisle, KY) who's a good friend and a "Dr. Performance" installer. He did a tune up on the truck which included a throttle cable adjustment, valve adjustment, resetting the timing, etc. The difference in the truck's performance was amazing! An unanticipated "plus" was the fact that the truck ran much cooler! EGTs were back to pre-exhaust brake days; cool down periods were dramatically shortened. I could pull off the interstate, drive the last mile or two to my home, and the turbo would be at 150-200, ready to shut down. I was elated.

The last week or two, however, things have turned to crap. Performance has suffered, EGTs have begun climbing during average runs, and the cool down times have gotten longer and longer. I've checked the air filter and all pipe/hose connections between the turbo and intake. I checked the inlet side of the turbo, itself, and noticed a little bit of black (carbon?) buildup around the edges of the housing where the impeller fan is located. There's no wear on the outer edges of the fan blades, no lateral movement in the fan mounting, and it spins freely.

I am mostly annoyed by the long cool-down times, now. I can start the truck (cold), drive it around the block, and it'll take a couple of minutes to cool down to where I can shut it off. It seems, in fact, that it will cool down faster if it's been driven longer! This is weird, because the turbo's cool-down shouldn't have anything to do with the water-cooled (thermostatic) function of the rest of the power-plant. I can see where the engine, with the thermostat shut, might retain heat a little longer after a short hop, when it hadn't really had the chance to get up to operating temps -- but I don't see how the tubo's cool-down would be affected. (Okay, admit it, I've confused the crap outta you!) #ad


Anyway, I have a couple of theories... The main theory is that the BD Exhaust brake is, somehow, the culprit. Either it is loading up with carbon, the valve isn't returning the little "flapper" to it's normal, "in-line" position, or there is a vacuum problem somewhere that is contributing, somehow, to the problem.

My other theory is that the EGT probe, itself, is unreliable. Maybe these things become covered with carbon after a couple of years and need to be replaced?? Maybe the coating of carbon that had built up on the probe broke off, then built up again. . ?? Anybody had any similar experiences. . ?

This sitting in the driveway/parking lot for three or four minutes, waiting for the truck to cool down, is a PAIN-IN-THE-*** ! Also, the "conventional wisdom" is that EGTs are about 300 degrees hotter when the probe is located aft of the turbo. Does this mean that the truck should be allowed to cool down past the normally recommended 250 degrees? If there is a three hundred degree difference in readings (between pre and post turbo locations), then 300 degrees (after the turbo) would equate to 600 degrees before the turbo -- (I'll be explaining Einstein's relativity theory, here, next week... )

Thanks for your input!
 
Sasq
I'd really take a look at the gauge/probe first. I can't imagine the egt staying that hot for that long. Mine drops to -300 in less than 30sec even after some work. with all the eratic readings your getting, sure sounds like a bad connection to me.
my $. 0000

Larry

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1972 Chinook class C with 96/215 5spd, 4/5" exh, 4"BD, MagHytec, 85gal fuel, K&N RE0880, AutoMeter, 370's, BD gov kit, BD afc kit, yada-yada-yada
www.fostertruck.com/cummins
 
Larry,

I think you're probably right. I'm going to call Westach in Sonoma, CA, on Monday and ask them to send me another bayonet thermocouple. I think you just slide the old one out of the compression fitting and insert the new one. There isn't anything wrong with the wiring, itself, though -- at least I'm pretty sure. Has anyone else ever heard of one of these thermocouples (or whatever the heck they're called) going bad after a couple of years?

Also, what's the answer to my earlier question about proper cool-down temps when your "probe" is installed in the elbow after the turbo? Anyone. . ??

Thanks, Larry.

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97 2500 4x4, club cab, auto, 3. 54 limited slip, JRE 4" exhaust, Dr. Performance Fuel system (370 HP), "Twister Turbo," Geno's guages -- Boost, EGT, transmission & Rear -- MAG Hytec covers, SunCoast Converter/Transgo shift kit, Brite Box, tons o'chrome under hood, Prime Loc, EZ Drain, Seat covers, wood dash, Rancho Suspension, Warn M12000 Winch on Warn Brush Guard, Warn driving and fog lights, Hella twin back up lights, 285/75/R16 B. F. G. ATs on Mickey Thompson "Classic" rims; Linex bed liner, BD exhaust brake, Optima, "Red-top" batteries. Northwest Custom mudflaps, front/rear, and stainless rocker panels.
 
Have you considered that your timing might have slipped a little to the retarded side again????????

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2001 FL70, 330hp CATERPILLAR "3126", I've gone to the dark side... .
<<>>Charles Pyatt<<>
*WARNING this post may offend some ford-diesel.com members*
 
Sasquatch
Give it two aspirins and call the Doc in the morning.
Seriously, think about checking oil flow to,and thru turbo. Oil passage mite be blocked a little. I think this would let the turbo run hotter than normal and keep it from cooling off as fast.
Driving around the block specially at low speeds(under 30 ?) would not pump a lot of oil thru turbo housing ,plus the oil mite be a little thicker on a short run. Where as on a long run the oil would heat up and thin out a little plus higher speeds would push more oil thru turbo housing.
Could be wiring or connections as LarryB pointed out, or sensor probe.
Another thought if your exhaust system is plugged a little either by exhaust brake or cat.
 
Originally posted by Sasquatch:
the turbo would be at 150-200, ready to shut down. I was elated.

My other theory is that the EGT probe, itself, is unreliable. Maybe these things become covered with carbon after a couple of years and need to be replaced?? Maybe the coating of carbon that had built up on the probe broke off, then built up again. . ?? Anybody had any similar experiences. . ?


Thanks for your input!

Haven't had this trouble, but seems to me like you may have figured it out... the 300* difference, however, is during "runs" when there's boost happening... . boost is created by the physics of the thermal energy extracted by the function of the turbocharger. at idle, there's nearly zero boost, so not much of that energy extraction happening at all... 300* post turbo should be almost indicative of 310-325 pre-turbo(if the difference is that drastic ???) What prompts my response is the 150-200* target (which you've actually seen on occasion) --this seems to be TOO low. I suspect carbon-coating on the probe (insulates from heat,both slowing down the gain indication, and the loss indication) or the probe has gone bad--( I think this is considered pretty unlikely, as there's no moving parts)===keep us posted on the result of the detective work---rm
 
Missouri Mule:

"Give it two aspirins and call the Doc in the morning... "

'preciate the coffee on the keyboard! (Laughing my butt off, here!) So, I'm guessin' you feel that my probe-problem isn't as important as the outcome of the presidential election? (as if THAT'S important. . ). #ad
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97 2500 4x4, club cab, auto, 3. 54 limited slip, JRE 4" exhaust, Dr. Performance Fuel system (370 HP), "Twister Turbo," Geno's guages -- Boost, EGT, transmission & Rear -- MAG Hytec covers, SunCoast Converter/Transgo shift kit, Brite Box, tons o'chrome under hood, Prime Loc, EZ Drain, Seat covers, wood dash, Rancho Suspension, Warn M12000 Winch on Warn Brush Guard, Warn driving and fog lights, Hella twin back up lights, 285/75/R16 B. F. G. ATs on Mickey Thompson "Classic" rims; Linex bed liner, BD exhaust brake, Optima, "Red-top" batteries. Northwest Custom mudflaps, front/rear, and stainless rocker panels.

[This message has been edited by Sasquatch (edited 11-12-2000). ]
 
rich m:

I'm with you, now. I'm thinking it's probe-related, and that a new thermocouple-bayonet-dealie, inserted in my normal, surgically precise, manner (Missouri Mule -- NO INSERTION POINTERS NECESSARY!), will solve the problem.

I'm sure this will work -- mostly because it would be beyond my meager, mechanical abilities to "check the oil flow through the turbo. "

I like the thinned oil vs. thick oil theory regarding turbo, short-run cool-down. I'm going to tell everyone I bump into on the street that story, and try to convince them I came up with it! #ad


The carboned-up probe theory (of yours) makes sense. I'm going to appropriate that one, too. I wonder if the old probe (the one I'm going to remove) can be cleaned and "restored" by removing the carbon? Maybe remove the carbon with wet-dry sandpaper, coat it with WD-40, and set it aside in case the new probe develops the same problem?
 
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