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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission my truck has a poping noise when we back and turn at the same time what is this

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 24v with a p-pump

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when we are backing up and turning the wheel we get a pop sound from the driver side front tire the truck has 170k and it's a 99 :eek: 2500 4x4

thanks
 
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You need to post some more details: At full lock or a gradual turn? In 4WD and 2WD? Is the front axle disconnecting? Have you jacked it up and turned the wheels to look for slop or binding? Have any of the front end components been replaced? There are probably lots more questions.



On all my cars and trucks there are steering stops to limit how far the front wheels angle at full steering lock. If there is any play or slop in the ball joints then the steering stop on the wheel can move up and down against the stop on the frame. This can make a popping noise. If you rub a little grease on each of these surfaces, the noise might go away.
 
It Does It In Two Wheel Drive

The Wheel Is Not Turned All The Way Not Even Half Way

When I Use My 4wheel Drive When I Go Back To 2wheel Drive I Allways Back Up 11 Or 12 Feet To Make Shure The Hubs Unlock

I'm Thinking Upper Or Lower Ball Joint Is Going Bad

Front Tires Are Showing Uneven Wear

The Truck Does Not Pull To One Side Or The Other You Can Let Go Ofthe Wheel And It Stayes Stright
 
Check the front axle u-joints.

Jack up the FE. While spinning the tire by hand, have someone slowly turn the steering wheel lock to lock. This will help identify which one is the guilty party. Mike
 
Check the front axle u-joints.

Jack up the FE. While spinning the tire by hand, have someone slowly turn the steering wheel lock to lock. This will help identify which one is the guilty party. Mike





Yeah, I second this one. I had a bad U-Joint on the passenger side, it didn't make noise, but when I turned the truck to the left at moderately slow speeds(less than 30mph) the truck would jump a little bit. Diagnosed as a bad joint. Not cheap to replace either, if you have someone else do the work... I't take it to a good tire shop and have them diagnose, unless you're a tried and true DIY'er.
 
I agree on the front axle u-joints.

Hard to predict costs. I had both u-joints done at a dealer about 10 years ago for about $225 each, including parts. At that time the hub pulled off easy. Job took about 45 minutes per side. Some on this site have taken a week to remove the hub with much pounding, pullers, torches, plasma cutters, many cases of beer, etc. (Do a search) If the bearing gets wrecked, it's a couple of hundred more, per side.



I replaced my right side ball joints last weekend and it took about an hour to get to the point where I pulled the axle out. I posted a few pictures about the job.
 
I think that I paid around $180-200 for the job. It was worth it for me to have someone else do it. I didn't have air tools then, and it would have been a pain in the arse... Take it to a pro that you trust. They should be able to knock it out very quickly, provided the hub is not stuck...
 
Years ago, we used to back up and turn a car at the same time as a quick test to see if it had a positrac 3rd member. The popping and jerking for some reason were only consistent doing it that way. My wife's '96 Caprice has a corporate limited slip in it. It normally is quiet but does require a little extra throttle when backing and turning at the same time. The only time it started popping, it needed servicing. That stopped it.

My truck has a 3. 54 suregrip (positrac), not a locker, and will skip and slide on sand or gravel when turning, going forward or backward.

If yours has the suregrip, have it serviced and be sure they put the additive in the new lube. It might work.



Good luck, Tom
 
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