Here I am

My truck just shut down

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F700 with 12v wont start

Truck is stalling.

ACoyle

Super Moderator
TDR MEMBER
I was on the highway doing about 70 MPH. The truck started to run a little rough. The motor just seemed to coast down, like it was running out of fuel and after 30 seconds or so stopped.

1) I had not bought fuel in over a week.
2) I had a bit less than half a tank.
3) The truck turns over well, just will not fire.

Error code P0602 - I think this is the "Smarty Code" Yes, I have one.
Error code P0148 - I cannot seem to find this one.

At least I could not. Now I did find the code is says fuel pressure delivery system. So, I may have had this before. Doesn't one of the injector lines crack?

P0148 Fuel Delivery Error - OBD Codes
If the PCM detects an input signal from the fuel pressure sensor which indicates that fuel pressure is not within a specified range (too low or too high), a code P0148 will be stored and a malfunction indicator lamp may be illuminated.


Any help or similar circumstances would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
Andy
 
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I dont have a way to read pressure, but, I did remember that this happened before and one of the injector lines tends to crack.
 
I dont have a way to read pressure, but, I did remember that this happened before and one of the injector lines tends to crack.

If that happened, you’d know it by the presence of fuel everywhere.
Look for a similar thread on this forum. The guy just went for a CP3.
 
Upon further looking, I found a vid on the subject. It was pretty thorough. It started back at the tank. He said to open the fuel tank, turn the key to on and bump the starter and I should hear the lift pump. I do not hear anything. My hearing isn't great, so I had my wife double check me. She hears nothing either. The next test is to open the banjo feeding the CP3 from the lift pump. and turn on to see if I get fuel. Since it;s on the street, if the lift pump is good I could dump diesel on the street. Not going to try that one just yet. There is also a pressure relief valve that can stick open. I have to ponder what else I can test.
 
Hi Wayne M - I see a sig "New - 04 3500 - 325 HO Black, Auto, 4 X 4, QC, Bone Stock (Sort of)." I do need to change it a bit. Before warranty was up, I did not admit to the smarty, It has, in truth, been there since almost day 1. Otherwias it is indeed stock.
 
Ahh. Ok so you have a common rail, and unless your lift pump has been updated to in tank, it’ll be behind the fuel filter housing. You should hear it even if you turn the key to run. You can just unscrew it or take the fuel filter cap off/ filter out and hit the key, the canister should overflow- if not, you’re not lifting fuel. BUT unless the lift pump is internally blocked in failure, that shouldn’t shut you down once you’re underway.
That said, in diagnostics, I like everything to be as it should during troubleshooting, and making sure that pump works is step 1.
 
Wayne - The lift pump is definitely in the tank. The one behind the filter died a few years ago and the truck was converted to in tank.

I took the fuel cap off and bumped the key. I didnt hear anything. Since I wear hearing g aids. I backed that up by having my wife listen. She hears nothing as well. I think that's it.

I see no fuel on the block, so for the moment, I dont thoik it is high pressure tubes.

It got dark. I will continue in the AM.
 
If it is retrofitted to the tank and it doesnt run - there is an auxiliary harness with relais and a fuse for that new pump.
Start with the connection at the fuel filter canister where the OEM pump sat, from there work back to the tank.
Check all the electrics first then pull the pump, this intank pump fail very rarely so i think it is the power to it.
 
Yes it is, just follow the cable from the OEM connector at the (gone) Carter Pump.
Relay and fuse is (probably) in the drivers side corner around the main brake cylinder.
From the engines bay the cable then goes out into the rear part of the fender, behind the wheel well, down to a big connector at the underbody beneath the frame body mount.
From there it goes without connector back to the tank.
 
Thank you - The truck is in the street. I'm thinking of hot wiring the pump, if it starts, I could back it in the driveway and feel better.
 
I'm hop'in not as the tank would have to come down.
Sadly, that is my guess too.
That would be two for this truck.
 
The most common failure with the retrofitted fuel pump is corrosion at the connector at the battery to the add on relay,next would be the fuse or fuse holder(inline).
A failed intank fuel pump is extremely rare
 
I've heard of lifting the box and dropping the tank. Not sure which is better; they both sound sucky.

As Bob said above, I'd try to rule out an electrical issue before jumping in. Find the pump wires and put 12v to it and keep fingers crossed for some noise.

I totally lucked out that my '03 stumbled and died when I was alone, not in a hurry, in town, and on a side street with legal parking. Also very lucky that the pump is on the side of the engine. (not in the tank) I was just 3 blocks from the hospital, so I borrowed my wife's car to run home and get tools. (replacement pump was stashed under the back seat)
 
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Well, it's back running.
The guy down the street that I use for heavier stuff picked it up.

He said the alternator was only putting out 12.3 volts and the batteries had become discharged. Replaced the alternator, topped off the batteries, starts and runs great. Baffles me. Just ecstatic to have it back. P. S. The dog is happy her ride is back too. Thank you everyone. I'm still baffled. It was 21 degrees that AM and it cranked right up.
 
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