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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) My Turbo Experiment

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) NV4500 lube change

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) VA for a y2k ISB....

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This week I got off my butt and finished the Dial a Boost for my turbo. I will be running the turbo at Diesel Thunder, even if it is to my detriment on the dyno... but it will make up for it on the track

(this turbo spools up at any RPM!)



but all my smoke is gone :(



I installed the turbo on my truck and set the wastgate to open at 33 PSI.



a couple of interesting things happened. With lower boost than the stock turbo: a HX35/14 set for 38 psi, my new turbo ran noticeably cooler at WOT with less boost. I attribute this to the HX40 compressor wheel.



I decided to check drive pressure also.



Boost pressure is sensed at the intake horn, and drive pressure was senced at the exhaust manifold Pyrometer port.



4psi of boost required 4psi of drive pressure

10 psi of boost required 12 psi of drive pressure



and here is what I was worried about

33 psi of boost required 40-45 psi of drive pressure.



there is room for a seccondary turbo. With the wastgate set to open at the OEM HY35 setpoint, I could only make 25 psi of boost,so I am hoping with the addition of the H2E I should be able to bring boost up to 45-50 psi with little rise in drive pressure.
 
Took the turbo off. I need to get my hands on the 10cm housing and bore it to fit a HX35 turbine. That should solve my drive pressure issue.
 
Were Lurking Here Learing

Don't worry DF 226 of us are reading your good stuff. As for me I don't dare open my mouth since you are way over my head but I just keep on reading and learning. One of these days ... LOL



Please keep on posting your results.



Tom Garven
 
WOW, How did I miss this thread?!?!?!:eek: :eek:



Been waiting to hear about what you did with you turbos. Are you going to dyno with the 10cm with the 35 turbine or the way it is? What mods have been done to the H2e? When will you install the H2 for twins?



Thanks for keeping us updated! :D



Andrew
 
Originally posted by Mark_Kendrick

Me too!!!!



I'm working on twins... HX35-??(12W,18,21??) and an HT3B. I'll let you know how it goes.





Mark, if you are going to rin a HX35 as a primary..... it HAS to have a HUGE exhaust housing. why? the HX is only wastgated on the aft three cylinders... . so if you have a small wastgated housing, the engine becomes horribly unballanced... 50+ psi drive pressure on the front three cylinders... and much less on the aft three. Look for a way to keep drive pressure constant (and low) across all six cylinders...



good luck!
 
cliff



i'm taking it easy, it's just that quite a few of us run a setup just like marks original design. only we choose to buy them from the company that did all th r&d to find the right combination.



jim
 
What's the fun in buying them. :confused:

And external wategate will equalize the cylinders. For that matter a simple 1/2" spacer at the manifold would equalize the two plenums. at higher fueling levels we don't need a divided housing to spool well.



The idea is to make a set of twins that are somewhat affordable.



under $2500 would be nice. using the hx35 is paramount to the effort.

I could care less what enterprise and the mitchells do. I'll do it the way I want it done.
 
mark



if your going to copy a system it's the best one.

they work great on a 24v. i just wonder why you chose the ht3b? did you play eny meny miny moe in the turbo book?

like i said the system works great, but just to let you know there are over 10 exhaust housings for the ht3b, it might just be cheaper to buy the system than test all of them.



jim
 
While we're on the subject, would a Piers HX40 work good on an auto in a twin setup? I keep thinking that the reason that they use the 35 is because of manuels, so would the 40 work well because of the ablity to keep boost up during shifts?



Just wondering,

Andrew
 
andrew the 40 will have more lag off the bottom, and if you have i tight convertor it just makes it that much worse!! with a stick you can slip the clutch so it isn't as big of a problem. you only have a problem when starting from a stop. once you are grabbing gears and you keep it over 1800rpm there is no lag.



jim
 
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