Here I am

My way for A mystery switch.

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I decided I wanted a switch to control Lockup, Unlock, and Auto (PCM controled) Well you want to start out and find your Orange with black stripe wire that controls the torque converter. I cut the wire in half and then soldered the two longer lead wires from both ends and ran the wires to under the dash. One green and one white. Green goes to Torque converter wire (goes across the engine fire wall) and white to PCM(3 modules on the passenger side fender). Then I ran a ground wire to feed the manual lock up. I got to brain storming and decided that I want to have something to get my attention if I forget my switch in manual lockup mode. I added a buzzer that I had laying around. I took 12-volt power from the brake switch so when your slowing down and you put your foot on the brake and the switch is in manual lockup mode the buzzer will BUZZ to alarm you. To find 12 volt, check all wires and find one that has 12 volt when brake is pressed. I used a white wire with red tape for positive side of buzzer for this one. Ground will be added in at the switch. Next was a location for the switch, this was a hard one. I decided it would go on the left side of the dash just under odometer on the plastic shroud. Now comes the wiring, I bought a 6 pole 3-way switch from radio shack for about $6. The solid white wire went to #4, Green went to #5, and Black went to #6. Now we need to add a jumper wire for the buzzer (jumper wire is a ground). So a jumper wire on #6 to #3 and white wire with red tape to #2. You also need to take out the transmission relay out add a jumper wire. So now you have Manual lock up then manual unlock then Auto.
 
When and how do you use the lockup switch? Do you turn it on only after in OD? Can the truck make downshifts and upshifts with the TC locked by the switch?



I have read many threads concerning the lockup switch and have wondered if there was anyway of having boost or some other signal, maybe speed turn this on/off ? Just trying to see if there was any other way other than depending on me to hit a switch.
 
(quote) When and how do you use the lockup switch? Do you turn it on only after in OD? Can the truck make downshifts and upshifts with the TC locked by the switch?



I have read many threads concerning the lockup switch and have wondered if there was anyway of having boost or some other signal, maybe speed turn this on/off ? Just trying to see if there was any other way other than depending on me to hit a switch.





1. I use lock up only for dyno runs, I like unlock for times you are going 30-45 mph and the torque converter is locking and unlocking all the time, and use the auto all the time. You can lock up in 3rd gear, And once the truck is in the gear that you locked up it will not down shift. It will up shift if you lock up in 3rd. I have heard it is hard on your transmission if you still have a stocker, so be carefull.



2. ATS makes a box that is controled by speed and locks and unlock all buy its self, but they are about $425. click here for more info

http://www.atsdiesel.com/products/products-dodge-transmission-controller.asp



Do a search on ATS TripleLok Commander ... . ????

Thats all i know. .

kevin
 
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jumper wire...

I understand the switch wiring into the TC lockup wire. Yes, this should work on just about any year truck but wire color might be different. I still don't understand the jumper wire in place of the relay though. When does the relay normally open/close and what is it's function? I am sure this is the reason your truck doesn't downshift 4 to 3 on the dyno like mine does but I don't understand what the jumper does.



-Deon
 
What keeps the buzzer from buzzing all the way down a hill when the TCC is locked up so an exhaust brake would work?
 
Joe G. said:
What keeps the buzzer from buzzing all the way down a hill when the TCC is locked up so an exhaust brake would work?



I don't have an exhaust brake, so i don't know anythink about with them. How do you engage the exhaust brake? The buzzer will only go off if the switch is in manual lock up and you have your foot on the brake.
 
If you just coast to slow down it won't buzz if I understand what you are saying. The exhaust brake is wired to come on anytime the fuel pedal is at idle so if the brake pedal is not stepped on it won't buzz. If there is no way to make the TCC stay locked an exhaust brake is useless for an auto trans so the manual lockup switch is always on when descending a hill. If I am going down a hill with the exhaust brake on and hit my service brakes then it will buzz every time I do that. The usual need for a "mystery" switch is to be able to use an exhaust brake when towing.
 
Joe G. said:
If you just coast to slow down it won't buzz if I understand what you are saying. The exhaust brake is wired to come on anytime the fuel pedal is at idle so if the brake pedal is not stepped on it won't buzz. If there is no way to make the TCC stay locked an exhaust brake is useless for an auto trans so the manual lockup switch is always on when descending a hill. If I am going down a hill with the exhaust brake on and hit my service brakes then it will buzz every time I do that. The usual need for a "mystery" switch is to be able to use an exhaust brake when towing.



It will only buzz when the brake is pressed, so if your using it to maintain your speed down a hill and you never touch the brake you will not hear the buzzer. But don't forget to flip the switch before stopping. .
 
I usually leave my TCC lock up switch and my exhaust brake on all the time unless I'm in town. I have a foot button to drop the lock when I need to so the switch stays on. You might want to see TDR mag issues 11, 12, and 13 for discussion of uses and wiring for the switch by Russell Ward who invented the thing.
 
I don't understand why the relay is taken out either? But it's definately a mod that I want to do to my truck before I go to the dyno. Thanks for the info Kevin.

Corey
 
Joe G. said:
What keeps the buzzer from buzzing all the way down a hill when the TCC is locked up so an exhaust brake would work?



This is a simple fix. Wire the ground side of the buzzer on a normally closed relay. When you flip the switch for your Exhaust Brake and it turns on, it opens the contacts of the relay so you have no buzzer. When the Exhaust Brake is not operating it leave the relay closed and it buzz's so you know to shut the switch off.



So... . for the buzzer. Hot side of the brake pedal to the buzzer, then to the normally closed relay, from there to the switch as Silverram said. On the Signal side of the relay, use the power that actuates the E-Brake to tell the relay to open. I do not have a relay of this fashion infront of me right now... so I can't give terminal number/names.



Josh
 
darn tech's and thier smart talk. Josh think you could give me a hand wiring one up after i get my transmission pan on. i need one BAD! kevin i like the buzzer but it would buzz once and i'd rip it right out, i hate the buzzers in our trucks.



The Fat Kid

Andy
 
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