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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Mysterious fuel prime

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Got no responses, gonna try again…Anyone has any ideas why a 12V engine would lose fuel prime and THEN get it back itself? If I try to restart within 5 minutes of shutdown have a H*ll of a time, but wait about 20 minutes and the truck is fine?!! :confused:
 
I agree w/ Bob4x4's suspicion. There's no way you can lose prime at 5 minutes post-shutoff, then have it back at 20 minutes post (unless your next-door-neighbor is messing with your mind big-time). Vice versa might make sense, but not this way. Failing relays or a sticky fuel shutoff solenoid (for some reason sticking in 'off' when warm, but not when cool?) would be my first suspicions.
 
thanks guys! I would rather deal with an electrical problem than a mysterious fuel bleed. Think I'll start by bypassing the fuel solenoid relay under the failure condition, then try holding the fuel solenoid open manually as a second test. Thanks for the input!!
 
My dad's truck was really irritating for a while, then I read a post about cleaning the fuel shut off relay. Take the relay off,hold it so the terminals point upwards, and spray some electronic contact cleaner down inside a couple times. I shook it after each time I sprayed the cleaner to get the excess out. It has worked for a few months now. Hope this helps.



Jordan
 
Try this. The next time it won't start leave the key on, lift the hood and push the solenoid plunger up. If it stays up and the truck starts that is your culprit, not the relay. Remove it, clean the plunger with brake cleaner and reinstall. Took me about 30 minutes.
 
The next time it won't start leave the key on, lift the hood and push the solenoid plunger up. If it stays up and the truck starts that is your culprit, not the relay.

Did this with dad's and with the key on if the plunger was manually pushed up it would stay up. We were in a hurry when I looked at it so unfortunately I didn't have time to check everything like I should. Changed the solenoid and $200 later it wasn't any better-was the relay. Not to doubt what worked for GAmes but check both so you don't feel stupid about spending $200 that wasn't necesary like I did.



Jordan
 
Thanx!

A thanks to all who offered very helpful insights…It apparently WAS the solenoid. Removed it and emery'd the plunger, then lubricated with a dry lube metal spray. The plunger boot is ozonized and cracking—hence the moisture/rust introduction, Anyone know if Cummins sells the boot separately rather than buying the $200. solenoid unit (coils tested fine both cold and warm)? I suspect grit/rust somehow causing the plunger to hang when the thing heated up! :D
 
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