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Napa Front Suspension Parts

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. . Well its time that I rebuild the frontend on my 97 2 wheel drive... I got a quote from a local shop that uses Moog parts and they want $1700. 00 for a complete rebuild with new rotors and pads. I knew that I needed the pads and rotors ...

So my question is... who has used the front end parts and what do you think. Also what did it cost you to rebuild the front end. . My wife just couldnt understand why so much. . but I also told her that the truck has 252k on it and the front end has never been touched...



Thanks

Rick
 
Moog used to be good stuff? Can never tell anymore. I have a Moog Lifetime (replaceable) Track Bar on mine that I've replaced once so far. However, $1700 sounds like a great deal of ca ching $$$ for a non 4X4 front end. Does that price include labor or just parts???
 
Ask for their "Fleet Tough" Series on tie rod ends. I Have them and side by side they look somehow different . . allmost thicker if you will when compared to stock.
 
Use Napa....

if you want to have to keep redoing the front end... .



We've had much better success with Moog at my shop.
 
Placed an order with Rock Auto today for full set of tie rods and ball joints for each side all from Moog. Total cost just for the parts with the TDR discount and shipping came to $518. 09. I like to have passed out after placing the order too. Just as Rick stated on his front end mine has never been touched either and I have 181,000 on the clock so it needs to be done.
 
Rick, For what it's worth...

I just did everything on my '95. Had about $1,700 in parts from rock auto and misc. (Control arm bushings, Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends, Adjusting Sleeves, Idler Arm, Pitman Arm, Bilstien Shocks, DSS Stabilizer, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Ceramic Pads) All suspension parts were Moog Problem Solver, had another $120 for the machine shop to press bushings and ball joints, and another $80 to get it aligned. All in all, lots of money, but WOW talk about a good driving truck, it's better than New!!!



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Thought these were cool, plus the price beats the heck out of that EGR stuff.
 
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You are a brave guy trusting those sheetmetal jackstands :eek:



DRAG DIESEL said:
Rick, For what it's worth...

I just did everything on my '95. Had about $1,700 in parts from rock auto and misc. (Control arm bushings, Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Inner and Outer Tie Rod Ends, Adjusting Sleeves, Idler Arm, Pitman Arm, Bilstien Shocks, DSS Stabilizer, Drilled/Slotted Rotors, Ceramic Pads) All suspension parts were Moog Problem Solver, had another $120 for the machine shop to press bushings and ball joints, and another $80 to get it aligned. All in all, lots of money, but WOW talk about a good driving truck, it's better than New!!!



#ad
Thought these were cool, plus the price beats the heck out of that EGR stuff.
 
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Rick... ... ..... I replaced the upper and lower ball joints on my old 94 hot rod. Got um from NAPA, installed, greased everything up and what a difference. All the slop and rattling is history. And on the drag strip, I don't have to correct the steering any more.



It's great... ... ... Did you get the seal gasket cut?



. . Preston. .
 
RAYBESTOS Part #ST76452L, #ST76452R fit 8800lb gvw 2x for sure 1995, and probably a few other years.



I was going to get them through my local supplier, but I found Rock Auto had them in stock and i was placing an order anyhow, so I tacked them on. Any Raybestos dealer should be able to get these for you.



Cool Note: They were COMPLETE, studs and all.

Scary Note: This is my first set of rotors! 258k and counting.



SHobbs said:
Drag Diesel



What did you do with the coil spring? I don't want the darn thing jumping out at me.

Disclaimer... . Jake is not responsible for anything... k, now we covered that...



The coils on mine did not jump out, when you jack the front end up it seemed that most of the tension was relieved of the spring. When I took the ball joint castle nuts off, and knocked the spindle off the lower control arm didn't move that much. To get them back in all it took was a second jack to raise the control arm to compress the spring a touch and put the castle nuts back on.



Nate said:
You are a brave guy trusting those sheetmetal jackstands :eek:

Who said anything about trusting them... they were only there holding the truck level so i could set the alignment. You should see my real stands. :eek:
 
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