2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission NAPA Severe Duty Brake Pads and Help Installing

[HeavyHauler]

OK guys, it's been several years since I've changed a set of brake pads and I've never done it on my CTD. I've been going through the Haynes manual for the truck and I don't remember ever going through this many steps to change brake pads. It mentions inner and outer pads - do I have to check the outer pads too? I'm totally confused, I don't think I should have ever consulted this book - probably could have done it right just diving right in.



Anyway, I need some tips and help on things I might run into. It's gonna be a late night job so I won't have a chance to run to a parts house to get anything.



I'm considering the NAPA Severe Duty metallic brake pads - any complaints? The only I have so far is the price at $85. 99. I like NAPA parts and would like to use them but I don't know much about them.



Gimme all the info you can. Thanks in advance.

 

[Rob Thomas]

I have been using TDR member Sam Peterson's brake pads, so far I have 30k on them and show little signs of wear. I paid only slightly more for both sets (front and rear, on 4-wheel disk) than your price above.



There are two pads per wheel, an inner and outer, both need to be replaced as a set, and will be included with whatever pads you get.



The pads are an easy change out, you'll need a torx bit to remove the front calipers, slide off the rotor, and unless the rotor is totally messed up, just clean them up with Scotch Brite pads and reinstall. When installing the calipers I put anti-sieze on all sliding parts. The same for the rear, except they require a hex head socket not a torx to remove the caliper, if you have disks.





Rob

 

[InThinAir]

Sam sells Carbomet pads gives you everything you need in the kit including the boots and lube. 85 bucks for NAPA is alot. That must be for 2 full sets? You have a 2001. 5? or a 2001? I think that Carbomets are like $45 for fronts is what I paid.



Changing them out is a snap. Get an 8" C clamp and push the caliper all the way back out. Watch your fliud level and put a rag near the Master Cylinder to catch it if it overflows. Make sure you really push the caliper back while it is still attached. The 2001 uses a torx 45 to remove the caliper. If you need to get the rotors off of a 2001 you need a 12 point 14mm or 16mm, don't remember exactly. But it is really really tight! I think I can't remember because it momemtarily lost conscoiusness with the how fricken tight it was.



But the caliper just swings out free when the torx are taken out. Remove the pads and you are all set.



And by the way, don't get NAPAs if you are in a hurry get performance frictions from AutoZone.



---Doug

 

[woodsrat]

napa brake pads

thats the price for just the front pads. I would not get them i have them on mine right now and they have squelled since day one. just dealing with it for now because i cant see eating a set of 85. 00 pads. changing them isnt bad put the book down look at it take it apart put it back same way, check your rotors good if you cant get parts at night mine were toast.

 

[HeavyHauler]

Thanks for the replies fellas. Have any of you ever used the carbon metallic pads from AutoZone? I priced them today at $44. 99 for the front set and they are made by PFC.



I may go with those because I really don't have time to order from Sam as bad as I would like to. I'm gonna be going to northern Kentucky tomorrow night and I need to make sure that I have brakes.

 

[woodsrat]

autozone pads

yea forgot to post that. Two of my mechanics are using them seem to like them cant say about wear. But i think im going to try them next time around.

 

[Trizae]

pads

I cooked a set of Mopar V-Line pads in 15,000 miles. Lots of towing and still no Exhaust Brake! ,



I bought a set of performance friction, carbon metalics,,,, i have put maybe 1500 mile on them,,,,,, and probally 500 of those were towing. .



I like them,,, very pleased,,,,,, think i paid 47 bucks



buy the way,,,,,, the Mopar V-Lines are there Cheap Reman brakes,,,,,,,, A set of oem May have lasted another 10,000 miles



But nothing going to last towing 7000lbs at 75MPH in the mountains of Va with No Exhaust Brake



Anybody got the Mopar Part Number for a 1997 12valve brake kit

 

[InThinAir]

I used the Performance Friction from AutoZone last time, for me they didn't last as long as the originals. But that could be blamed on cracked rotors. My rotors were shot by about 80K miles, many cracks in the surface.



I would say that the autozone pads stopped better than stock and the price was good, compared I guess to the NAPAs. Best deal going is Sam Peterson. To your door in a couple of days for about $50.



give him a call



---Doug

 

[willyslover]

it's not a good thing to force the fluid back into / thru the master cylinder... open the bleed valve and put a tube on it and catch it in a waste container like and old water/soda plastic bottle. . put in fresh brake fluid and bleed the fresh thru the lines til clear. .



also clean the pins very well and lube with the high temp lube and put on new boots... or you risk the hanging caliper issues and wear out your new pads very fast as well as brake pull.

 

[InThinAir]

That's interesting what you say about forcing the fluid back. The 8" C clamp method is straight of the 2003 Service manual as well. That process hasn't changed in years. What damage could occur? I didn't believe there was any valve in there do be concerned with forcing the fluid past. But I am certainly not an expert.



I typically change out the fluid on a different interval then the pads.



---Doug

 

[willyslover]

Doug

could cause problems with ABS censors. . not to mention old fluid needs to go away do to water contamination/absorbsion and not back to the master cylinder where the cleaner fluid is... look at what comes out , dark brown v/s what's in the M/C clear [or semi clear]