Need a quick education on lifts...

[schv]

I am getting ready to move into my new place, which has a huge garage (40x35ft) with a 10ft ceiling. I plan to install a 2 post lift in one of the bays (10K lbs lift). I might even go for 12k lbs if I can get a good deal on one. I also know that most lifts are 12ft tall, but there are others available with the bracing and hydraulic lines under the floor between the posts that don't need as much height.



What I most need to know is what I need to do to provide a base. I assume I'll need to put in some kind of a big concrete footer to stabilize it and imbed some threaded rod to bolt the lift to.



Anyone here ever installed one?

 

[cap-n-cray]

I am getting ready to install a lift in my new shop (new to me). I have install several lifts for a Porsche repair shop. They were on a standard 4" foundation and I used redheads. I set up and positioned the lifts without the arms installed. Bored holes 3 1/2" deep, not through the foundation, the size of the holes in the mounting plate on the lift. Pounded the redheads in and tighten up the nuts. They are working today and have been for 10 years. I have even had my truck on the lifts. Check with the manufacture of the lift to see what they require. I always checked with the lift manufacture.



What kind of prices have you been quoted for a lift? I am looking a 10K 2-Post asymmetrical Clearfloor lift which list for $2599 with free shipping.



Cary

 

[schv]

Just looking around on line, I've seen 10K lifts ranging in price from around $1500 to $3500, plus shipping. I would have to assume that the quality of these lifts varies with price. I don't want a piece of junk, but I'm only going to be using it as a hobbyist/enthusiast so I'll probably end up with something in the price range you were quoted.

I'm surprised that all that is needed are concrete anchors! But after I made my original post I found some info online that recommends at least a 6" floor and 3000PSI concrete.

I would have thought a big huge footer block would be required, but apparently not (and that's good news!). I'll need to check out the floor of my new shop once I'm in there, but from the looks of the rest of it I would be surprised if the previous owner didn't pour 6" or more - the whole place is built with a nod to overkill!

 

[Matt400]

As a general rule, 4" re-bar enforced is good for lifts up to 9000 lbs and 6" for larger lifts.



If you use a twin post that has no overhead support of the 10 to 12K variety I would make sure the lift sets on the same pad. By that I mean if the floor needs upgrade then do one piece rather than two separate footings under each side.

Check with your lift manufacture to be safe.



I broke a floor once with a 9000 lb lift that had no overhead support.

The truck was at the lifts capacity and the floor was marginal.

 

[cap-n-cray]

Anyone have a lift in their shop? What brand do you have? I am just starting to look at different brands and there is a lot. Recommendations?? 10K or 12K? I have plenty of room.



Cary

 

[rubberneck]

10K Rotary assymetrical on a 6 " thick slab for the last 3 years and loving it. Just one question, if you only have a 10ft ceiling, you will only be able to get the truck about 3-4ft off the ground right?? That would be cool for brake/ tire service, but working under the truck i would think you would be on your knees. Would it be possible to modify the ceiling/trusses above the area of the lift to get yourself another couple of feet? Sure would make work under the truck a lot easier.

 

[BFoughty]

I've had my lift for 2 years now. the thing to consider on size is... . will something 12,000 lbs. fit thru the door? I have a 10,000 lb. that does all i want to do. Mine is an American Equipment lift out of Ft. Worth. Not sure if it is the top of the line or not... . but has served me well for all i've needed. here is there web page. Automotive Lifts, Automotive Shop Equipment and Automotive Tools from American Automotive Equipment

 

[schv]

Just one question, if you only have a 10ft ceiling, you will only be able to get the truck about 3-4ft off the ground right?? That would be cool for brake/ tire service, but working under the truck i would think you would be on your knees. Would it be possible to modify the ceiling/trusses above the area of the lift to get yourself another couple of feet? Sure would make work under the truck a lot easier.

Yeah, I'm going to look in to modifying the trusses, but even if I can't, the lift will be used as much or more for working on cars. I could also use a "creeper seat" under the truck if I had to. A friend of mine has a commercial shop where one bay only has a 10ft ceiling, and it's fine for cars.



Either way, it beats not having a lift.

 

[TBartlett1]

I built a 40x60 garage and installed a 2 post Mohawk System 1 lift rated at 10,000 lbs. This lift is as good as it gets, it cost approx $6000 but when i have my 8500lb Dodge Cummins on it I have no worrys about it failing.

I usally over buy knowing dam well that at some point time I will exceed the rating of whatever it is and I perfer to have a margin of safety on my side. As far as the floor requirements 4" of existing 4000psi concrete is sufficient, however if you need to pour a foundation as i did i preped the lift area with 8 inches of 4000psi concrete and 1/2 rebar in an 8" grid.

I like overkill it makes me fell better!



Tim

 

[schv]

I've had my lift for 2 years now. the thing to consider on size is... . will something 12,000 lbs. fit thru the door? I have a 10,000 lb. that does all i want to do.

My doors are 9x9ft, so I can get a pretty big vehicle in there. As mentioned above though, with a 10ft ceiling, I probably won't be able to go very high with a big truck. I'm leaning way more towards a 10k lift.

 

[rubberneck]

Yeah, I'm going to look in to modifying the trusses, but even if I can't, the lift will be used as much or more for working on cars. I could also use a "creeper seat" under the truck if I had to. A friend of mine has a commercial shop where one bay only has a 10ft ceiling, and it's fine for cars.



Either way, it beats not having a lift. [/QUOTE





Aw come on man, Im sure you dont need all that lumber up there, 5 min with a Sawzall, and i can get you plenty of room to put the old oil burner in there.

 

[DerekW]

10K Rotary assymetrical on a 6 " thick slab for the last 3 years and loving it. Just one question, if you only have a 10ft ceiling, you will only be able to get the truck about 3-4ft off the ground right?? That would be cool for brake/ tire service, but working under the truck i would think you would be on your knees. Would it be possible to modify the ceiling/trusses above the area of the lift to get yourself another couple of feet? Sure would make work under the truck a lot easier.

hmm that reminds me of the times we worked on those dodge conversion vans had to pull up a chair from the office to rebuild the rearend since you couldnt stand but the knees were painful.



may i reccomend you dont cut your hair short cuz it hurts like a when you bump your head. Also remove the ball mount from the tow hitch on a low lift like that. If you have a suspension or body lift on your truck 3 or 4 feet up in the air really starts to suck.



but over all I we used some companies but it had a problem and it had to be torn down to repair it so while we had it down we replaced it with a unit that we could put fords on cuz the fords have the high up frame in the back of the trucks and so on some truck that had nerf bars we didnt have to remove them to get truck on the lift. do your homework decide wut your gonna put on the lift and figure out what optional attachments you have to buy or build to make that vehicle fit on the lift. what ever you dont get the kind of lift that has the pads on the end of the legs that you flip up. those lifts suck for us aftermarket oriented truck guys.

 

[DerekW]

look at the lift legs in the pic thats the kind that are best suited for us aftermarket loving truck guys. the pads remove from lift leg and spaces can go in between pad and lift leg. if I remember correct the measurement of the lift leg adapter to fit around the ford frames was about 12-14" long and had a peice of channel to fit around the frame in the rear of the f250's and 350s.

 

[DerekW]

I really dont mean to dominate your thread but another suggestion for you. install pulling pots in the concrete floor. body shops use them to straighten cars but wen I built some for old shop so we could straighten axle housings we found another great use... . when you got vehicle up in air you can run a 4" tie down strap down to the pullin pot in the concrete to use as safety strap when removing heavy components off vehicle that may upset the balance of vehicle on lift. i've heard stories of vehicles falling from lift and seen them on internet stopped one in person but I still dont understand how people do it???

 

[Fred Swanson]

I've been using a 9K asymmetrical from NAPA for about 6 years now, and it has worked flawlessly. I had it outdoors for a few years, and now it is indoors. Crawling on the floor sucks, I'd make room so you can get the vehicles up high enough. The lift has an extension section added to get it up to 11'4", and I can get plenty of room underneath to work on any vehicle.

I went overkill on the pad though, in that I did a 15'x2'x1' footer, with 3000psi concrete, so I don't have to worry about it cracking or going anywhere.

 

[tgordon]

Also look at the small end. My CJ-7 would not fit on the twin post lifts we had in high school. The wheel base was to short for the arms to get between the wheels. Needless to say I always got priority using th e4-post lift on days we could work on our own vehicles.



I also would point out to the teacher when he would break his own saftey rules. such as getting on the lift while in th eair to get the oil filter off the eingine:-laf:-laf



Troy