Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Need a strong cheap TC

[shoalsgary]

I have 211,000 miles on my 96 12 valve and a #10 plate and 4kGSK. That's it. My TC clutch slips under heavy load and heavy throttle. First trip, it slipped when EGT reached 1250. Second trip it slipped when EGT reached 1150. Third trip is coming up. Previous owner had transmission rebuilt a couple of years ago and it shifts much more solidly than my 89, 93, or 03 did. I'm guessing I need a stronger TC but can't afford a triple disk. I want a good one with a lower stall speed, cheap. I'm finding a bunch of offerings from major non-race TC rebuilders in the $500 range that are claimed to hold 750-800 ft lbs of torque and have stall speed 300-400 lower than stock. I can't afford more than that. Anyone had experience with any of those companies? A few sell on eBay and one doesn't require a core or deposit.

I'm 71, don't race and never will again. I'm using it to move from Florida to north Alabama with a heavily loaded 34' gooseneck Wells Cargo, multiple trips. I have about 5000 miles of moving to go, and I'm babying the transmission. I fear being stuck in the middle of Atlanta or somewhere at 1AM with a dead transmission, so I'm going to do SOMETHING this week. Any $500 TC suggestions? It'll probably never tow heavy again after the move is completed...

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

You need enhanced line pressure to hold the torque converter clutch locked, especially with all the torque the 10 gives. It is the worst plate you could use (well, maybe the #4 is as bad) while trying to go cheap on the transmission and converter. You should be using a #8 but you can help what you have some by tightening the star wheel. By now most of the clutch material is in the fluid, pan, and filter so they should be cleaned and checked. Your problem reminds me of the old saying, good, fast, and cheap, pick two. I wish I could give you advice that meets your request. I designed the #10 for very high performance with appropriate mods in the 215 HP pump. Others who thought they knew more than I later recommended it for other applications for which it was never intended.

 

[shoalsgary]

You need enhanced line pressure to hold the torque converter clutch locked, especially with all the torque the 10 gives. It is the worst plate you could use (well, maybe the #4 is as bad) while trying to go cheap on the transmission and converter. You should be using a #8 but you can help what you have some by tightening the star wheel. By now most of the clutch material is in the fluid, pan, and filter so they should be cleaned and checked. Your problem reminds me of the old saying, good, fast, and cheap, pick two. I wish I could give you advice that meets your request. I designed the #10 for very high performance with appropriate mods in the 215 HP pump. Others who thought they knew more than I later recommended it for other applications for which it was never intended.

I ground my plate to 100, and changed it out for a 10 on the advice of practically everyone on another site. But it's on a 160hp pump. I baby it. I can get a Banks single disk TC cheap. Think it'll last 5000 miles of heavy towing? Everything's stock on my truck except the plate and GSK.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

A 96 auto came with a 180 hp pump. I made one #100 for Forest Wolf of Reno, and I made up that name for it. It turns out that he must have made dozens of copies of it, regardless of whether it was the right choice for others.

 

[shoalsgary]

Well it sure woke my 96 up! But I have to watch the pyro and take it easy on the juice pedal. With the GSK, it feels like it has the power my 03 had before the Banks tuner. Before the GSK and the #10, the truck felt a LOT weaker than my 89, my 93, or my 94.

 

[shoalsgary]

Oh, and the line pressure has been boosted. It shifts HARD.

 

[Cosmo]

Where are you in FL?

I got my torque converter from Transtar in Sarasota. They have several locations in FL depending on where you are. They apparently sell Recon torque converters. I bought a CR70X-S2. It held up just fine moving from FL to WA last year. I've got about 20k miles on it with no issues. Moving from FL I hauled a 24' enclosed car hauler filled with our household goods, somewhere in the 14k pound range.

When I towed, I had 4k springs, 60lb valve springs, light AFC spring, #100 fuel plate in stock location, and an upgraded trans. Billet accumulator piston, shift kit, and upgraded clutches everywhere. Steve did a few other little tricks while in there.

Now I've got that plus a pacbrake exhaust brake, stock fuel plate in again, ddp 50hp injectors. I had the 100 plate in with the new injectors but egts were just too high (1700+ and climbing fast) under extended WOT.

A quick google says the S2 converter runs about a thousand. I paid considerably less than that, pretty close to wholesale. The CR70X would probably work fine if you're taking it easy, the S1 I have no doubts about at all and it's in the $500 ballpark online.

 

[shoalsgary]

Just east of Eustis and just north of Mt Dora.

 

[shoalsgary]

Thanks; I'll contact them.

 

[Missouri Mule]

Suncoast should have single clutch TC. Don't know how much they want though. DTT should have one too.

 

[MrWill12]

I spoke to a mech and the latest thing to do when servicing your transmission, changing the filter and fluid, is to make sure the transmission cooler is flushed or replaced with an aftermarket cooler. This is because the OE cooler's design traps debris inside. The aftermarket filter has a better internal design but will still trap a small amount of debris.
Safe driving.